Hard "Cold Start" for 1998 90 HP Johnson spl 2-stroke oil injected ?

[left hook]

Launched the boat today and tried to start(electric start/tilt) the 1998 90HP 2-stroke Johnson spl and it wouldn't. Batteries were charged and motor was turning over fine. Primed the bulb until it was hard and it turned over and over without any sign of spark. I had been pushing in the key to choke it most of the time, but also turned the motor over without pushing the key in. Still nothing.
When I started it in my driveway w/ earmuffs yesterday, it would immediately fire and then die. It would do this a few times as I adjusted throttle positioning slightly on each attempt until it stayed running. Once it actually stayed running it ran fine and idled good.
After waiting about 15 mins. today at the ramp, I attempted to start it again without any choke(not pushing key in..). First attempt, it wanted to start, was smokey and died. Tried again, same thing. Third time, I gave it a bit of throttle and it started and ran perfect the rest of the day. It also fires right up on the restart...... So,.....why such the hard cold starts and does anyone think I flooded the engine today or was it starving for fuel?

 

[left hook]

Re: Hard "Cold Start" for 1998 90 HP Johnson spl 2-stroke oil injected ?

bump.....

I changed the plugs today and it still had the hard start. Will try to cold start it tomorrow with earmuffs. I've read the cold start procedures for Johnson/Evinrude and held the choke for 8-10 seconds. I hear the choke clicking as I push in the key while in "run." Still hard start. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks in advance.

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[boobie]

Re: Hard "Cold Start" for 1998 90 HP Johnson spl 2-stroke oil injected ?

Where did you read to hold the the choke for 8-10 seconds?? To properly start it, pump the primer bulb until hard. Then turn the mtr over to start and at the same time push in the key. This opens the valves in the primer so the fuel pump can squirt fuel to the intake manifold to help start it. To check and see if the primer is working, push the key in when it is running. The mtr should start to bog down or slow up. If it doesn't do this your primer isn't working.

 

[left hook]

Re: Hard "Cold Start" for 1998 90 HP Johnson spl 2-stroke oil injected ?

Thanks for the reply. I read the 8-10 second thing here on the forum. I guess I was desperate to try anything. I did push in the key while it was running today and the motor did not bog down. Sounds like the primer is not working as you mentioned. With that said, what is involved in fixing the primer?

 

[5150abf]

Re: Hard "Cold Start" for 1998 90 HP Johnson spl 2-stroke oil injected ?

On mine I hit the key then bump the choke for maybe a second, if it doesn't fire I bump it again then after it starts I will bump every now and then to keep it running but 2 strokes are really cold blooded and they can a challenge to get running.

By "adjust the throttle" I assume you mean the timing advance, they can be really picky about where that is, see if you can find a good spot and mark it so you can hit it every time, on mine it wirks out that there are 2 marks on the throttle that line up and it fires offa almost immediately every time

 

[left hook]

Re: Hard "Cold Start" for 1998 90 HP Johnson spl 2-stroke oil injected ?

OK.......better success today in the driveway with earmuffs. After reading more on the forums I was made aware of the red valve(looks like a tire valve) and I turned it, primed the bulb and heard gas shooting into the carb(s). I turned the red valve back to where it was and bumped the key without pushing it in and it started right up. Before I started it I wanted to check to see if the primer valve was working......so while in run position I pushed the key in and heard it clicking. Question: Is it possible that eventhough it sounded like the primer valve solenoid was working it actually is not given that it started right up after turning the red valve and manually priming it?? Secondly, can I clean or fix the existing primer valve solenoid or do I need to just replace it? If I have to replace it how much am I looking at. It appears very easy to replace. Thanks again for everyone's invaluable input!

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[boobie]

Re: Hard "Cold Start" for 1998 90 HP Johnson spl 2-stroke oil injected ?

Take the primer off and take it apart. You may find a stickey plunger or it's clogged up. Worst case, you'll have to replace it. Check shop.evinrude.com for diagrams and prices.

 

[left hook]

Re: Hard "Cold Start" for 1998 90 HP Johnson spl 2-stroke oil injected ?

Thanks a lot for the information. I'll take it apart and see what I find. Take care and Happy New Year.

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Hard "Cold Start" for 1998 90 HP Johnson spl 2-stroke oil injected ?

With the red lever in the MANUAL position, squeezing the primer bulb allows fuel to bypass the primer solenoid and to therefore flow into the engine. This feature allows the engine to be rope started (ya right) as with a dead battery the primer solenoid would not work. The red lever must be quickly moved back to the RUN position or the engine will flood and die. Yes -- the primer solenoid can work although the actual valve may not. The solenoid is rebuildable.

 

[left hook]

Re: Hard "Cold Start" for 1998 90 HP Johnson spl 2-stroke oil injected ?

Ok, I took the solenoid apart, cleaned it and put it back together. It didn't appear to be gummed up at all. I'll try to start it later this morning and see what happens.

 

[left hook]

Re: Hard "Cold Start" for 1998 90 HP Johnson spl 2-stroke oil injected ?

Never got the chance to try and start it after cleaning the solenoid as the motor would only turn over slowly. The battery was fully charged and is brand new. I took the battery up to the local auto parts store and they checked it for a dead cell. The battery is fine. I scraped the ends of both cables.......same thing. I'm thinking it's the starter, but would like to know for sure before taking it off. Sorry to change the subject matter here, but if it isn't one thing it's another.?

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Hard "Cold Start" for 1998 90 HP Johnson spl 2-stroke oil injected ?

Don't be in such a rush to buy a new starter. That process constitutes what we call thowing parts at a problem and hoping you get lucky. That is wasteful way to troubleshoot a problem. Why not make sure the starter is bad before buying a new one.
1) Scraping the battery ends of the cables certainly helps ensure the connections are good at the battery. But cables have connectionis on the other end as well so you need to check those as well. Again -- looking does not count.
2) Attach a pair of jumper cables to the battery. Connect the ground cable to an unpainted bolt or ground point on the engine block. Now touch the other end of the POSITIVE cable directly to the large post on the starter. If the engine now spins normally you just proved the starter is NOT the issue and you can look at the solenoid or associated wiring. If it doesn't spin normally the starter is likely the issue or you didn't have the cables connected tightly. Any reputable auto electric shop (also called starter/alternator rebuilder) can rebuild your starter cheaper than a new one. Generally turning the armature and new brushes puts it back in service.
3) Use one of the jumper cables (or a pair of pliers) to jump the two LARGE posts on the starter solenoid. If that allows the engine to spin normally you know the large POS and ground cable wiring is good and the issue is now very likely the solenoid.

 

[left hook]

Re: Hard "Cold Start" for 1998 90 HP Johnson spl 2-stroke oil injected ?

I'm going to go perform my checks and advise when I'm done. Thanks so much.

 

[left hook]

Re: Hard "Cold Start" for 1998 90 HP Johnson spl 2-stroke oil injected ?

I just attached jumper cables to the battery. I placed the ground cable to an unpainted bolt on the engine and touched the positive cable to the big post on the starter. The motor still turns over slowly.