PLEASE HELP!!!!! I Need serious Help with my 1956 Johnson SeaHorse Big Twin 30hp

[67Wacanda_Guy_99403]

Ok, I bought a motor for my 67'wacanda from a guy in spokane! He said that it was in good running condition and being mildly ignorant and excited about a 125.00 motor I believed him. When I got it home I decided to look up some info about it before running it seeing how this is my first boat and first outboard motor, after making sure the plugs were good we took it to the water to start it. it started after about 15mins of fiddling but sounded like it was missing. I took it home and looked up the johnson owners manual for it online, it said to check the points, found out one of the magneto coils wouldnt ohm out so i replaced both coils with new OMC coils and also put a tune up kit on it! He had cross threaded the spark plug on it and tapped it out to use a machined sleeve, I repaired the plug hole with JB Weld and fix-a-thread kit specifically for spark plugs. It had a sheared flywheel key which i have also replaced and the low speed needle for the needle jet was gone i have replaced this also, what my question is I cannot get the motor to Idle and am having a hard time understanding the posts on here for tunning the carb. I am also wondering what I need to make sure has oil and grease in it to prevent from breaking anything durring the remainder of this restoration? PLEASE HELP

 

[1946Zephyr]

Re: PLEASE HELP!!!!! I Need serious Help with my 1956 Johnson SeaHorse Big Twin 30hp

Set your low speed at 1 1/2 turns out and your high speed at 3/4 out from lightly seated and that is a good place to start. After you run it for a few, then you can probably lean it down about 1/8 turn. As far the bottom end, make sure you have good clean high viscosity gear oil in there. If you find milky white color to the oil, then it appears it has a bad seal somewhere. Those old 30's are good engines and quite reliable and it sounds like you did okay pricewise. If it is in decent shape, then it's worth the money to get it running right.

 

[67Wacanda_Guy_99403]

Re: PLEASE HELP!!!!! I Need serious Help with my 1956 Johnson SeaHorse Big Twin 30hp

One of the problems i am haveing is the motor is litterally vibrating the high speed needle jet out and I dont know exactly how to check the oil in the lower unit would i need to remove the propellor part of the motor and where do I fill it. the motor sounds awesome if I could get it to stay running and there is some seepage? and by lightly seated does that mean i need to screw it all the way in first?

 

[F_R]

Re: PLEASE HELP!!!!! I Need serious Help with my 1956 Johnson SeaHorse Big Twin 30hp

The oil drain and fill plugs are those large flat screwdriver slot things, about half an inch in diameter. The drain one is on the bottom of the gearcase under the bullet-nose. DO NOT, repeat, do not remove the phillips head screw.

The needles are vibrating out because the packings are loose, or shot or missing.

 

[1946Zephyr]

Re: PLEASE HELP!!!!! I Need serious Help with my 1956 Johnson SeaHorse Big Twin 30hp

Where the needles screw into the carb, you'll see a brass nut with each and just put a wrench on each one and just tighten it a little. Give each one a 1/4 turn to the right and turn the needle. As you tighten the nut, you'll notice that the needle valve will get tighter to turn. Usually, when they're at the point of vibrating out, they'll only need a 1/4 to 1/2 turn to snug things down.

You should post some pics of this motor to give us an idea of what you're working on. That motor is only 55 years old, but I've seen lots of them in nice condition and very fit for service. On the other hand, some are barely able to limp along. Either way, those are great restoration projects and offer years of reliable service, when they're in proper running order.

Like F_R said, don't remove the phillips head screw. The drain is directly underneith and the vent screw is up on the side of the gearcase, around the cavitation plate. Get a hand pump, when you buy gear oil and pump it in from the drain hole. When you see oil run out the vent hole, then put the vent plug in with a new washer. You can then remove the attachment from your hand pump, from the drain hole with minimal loss and put the drain plug in with a new washer.

Here, you can find a complete parts list of your motor.

http://www.marineengine.com/parts/v...ntage-evinrude-johnson/376750/37675000001.htm

 

[Mas]

Re: PLEASE HELP!!!!! I Need serious Help with my 1956 Johnson SeaHorse Big Twin 30hp

You may want to do a compression check to test the "health" of the powerhead. You'll want even numbers in he area of 100 psi using an electric start.

Mas

 

[67Wacanda_Guy_99403]

Re: PLEASE HELP!!!!! I Need serious Help with my 1956 Johnson SeaHorse Big Twin 30hp

it is a pull start!

 

[67Wacanda_Guy_99403]

Re: PLEASE HELP!!!!! I Need serious Help with my 1956 Johnson SeaHorse Big Twin 30hp

so this is all i have of the needle jets does the high speed look right? I am going to get the gromets and what not from the boat shop!

 

[67Wacanda_Guy_99403]

Re: PLEASE HELP!!!!! I Need serious Help with my 1956 Johnson SeaHorse Big Twin 30hp

 

[kfa4303]

Re: PLEASE HELP!!!!! I Need serious Help with my 1956 Johnson SeaHorse Big Twin 30hp

Hi 67. Here are some handy links. You're on the right track. Just start at the top and systematically work your way down the motor. Here are some great links that can walk you through each and every step of a tune up. You still got a pretty good deal (assuming the compression is good). You may end up putting in a couple hundred bucks,but you'll still come out way ahead in the long run and have the coolest looking motor on the water. Your needles look great. All you need a is a carb kit, which you can get tight here at iboats or NAPA auto parts stores for about $20. Give these a read and report back.


http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/04/s/columns/max/24/index.cfm
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=167352
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/03/r/columns/max/07/index.htm
http://www.outboard-boat-motor-repa...on 3 HP 1952-1967 Ignition System Tune-up.htm
http://www.outboard-boat-motor-repa...hnson 5.5 HP 1954-1964 Carburetor Tune-UP.htm

 

[todd57]

Re: PLEASE HELP!!!!! I Need serious Help with my 1956 Johnson SeaHorse Big Twin 30hp

so this is all i have of the needle jets does the high speed look right? I am going to get the gromets and what not from the boat shop!

View attachment 116947

Shouldn't there be a point on the end of the top needle? It looks like both ends are flat.

 

[kfa4303]

Re: PLEASE HELP!!!!! I Need serious Help with my 1956 Johnson SeaHorse Big Twin 30hp

I think he's ok. If you look closely you can see that the bottom needle is tapered, Lo sped needle, while the upper needle is the blunt, hi speed needle. A little steel wool will brighten them back up, just be sure you clean them off well after wards. Each of the needles also passes through the brass nuts shown in the pic. They get snugged down once the needles have been set to prevent them from backing out as the motor vibrates and to secure the packing.

 

[nwcove]

Re: PLEASE HELP!!!!! I Need serious Help with my 1956 Johnson SeaHorse Big Twin 30hp

hard to tell from the pic of the ignition, but it looks as tho at least one coil is set too far back, ie not flush with the mounting bosses.

 

[Sea18Horse]

Re: PLEASE HELP!!!!! I Need serious Help with my 1956 Johnson SeaHorse Big Twin 30hp

I would look a little more closely at that high speed needle. Looking at the parts diagram neather of the needles apears to be blunt. I would check in the jet. It wouldn't be the first time that the pointy end of the two piece needle go stuck in the jet.

Seat those needles gently.

Cheers...................Todd

 

[67Wacanda_Guy_99403]

Re: PLEASE HELP!!!!! I Need serious Help with my 1956 Johnson SeaHorse Big Twin 30hp

There is nothing that has broken off in the carb, I have made 100% sure, and no one has clarified this SEATED GENTLY!

 

[lindy46]

Re: PLEASE HELP!!!!! I Need serious Help with my 1956 Johnson SeaHorse Big Twin 30hp

It's hard to tell from the picture, but the high speed needle should have a blunt point. The low speed should be highly tapered with a sharp point, sort of like a pencil, but even more highly tapered. With the packing nuts loose, so the needles turn easily, you will be able to tell when they are all the way closed. Some folks think they need to screw them down tight - you don't need to do that. When they stop, they're closed.

 

[warude]

Re: PLEASE HELP!!!!! I Need serious Help with my 1956 Johnson SeaHorse Big Twin 30hp

ok let's set the record straight on this motor. this motor was running the DAY BEFORE he bought it from me! It was advertised as a running motor which was 100% accurate! I specifically explained to him that the motor had been tank tested and the low needle was set but the high speed needle would need to be adjusted as I had not lake tested it yet. It had new ignition coils, new points, new condensers, new water pump impeller, and a rebuilt carb and I did a link and sync on it.. He called me after he was having trouble getting it going and admitted that the sheared key happened after he took the motor and that he was told by the marine shop that the key shearing was most likely the cause of the coil failure. The flywheel was torqued to spec when he took the motor so I don't know what may have happened with that. He called me several other times and I did all that I could to help him out over the phone as we live 2 hours apart. The helicoil made specifically for the spark plug was installed according to instructions from a mechanic. and the motor ran fine in the test tank after it was installed so I am not sure what he is talking about on that. This motor also had the tiller arm on it that is increasingly hard to find in good condition. I paid 150.00 for the motor and a tank and then put all the new parts and got the motor running and sold it to him for 125.00 which was more than a fair price. I would have gladly started the motor for him at my house when he bought it and it WOULD HAVE STARTED! but he wanted to meet part way instead. Sorry for the rambling I just don't like people bad mouthing me or my character on an anonymous forum so I felt I had to reply and shed a bit more truthful story about this motor. This is a case of a novice getting into something and screwing stuff up and blaming someone else which happens to be me and I don't appreciate it. just my two cents worth of vindication.

 

[nwcove]

Re: PLEASE HELP!!!!! I Need serious Help with my 1956 Johnson SeaHorse Big Twin 30hp

wow! this thread took a different turn!!

 

[JB]

Re: PLEASE HELP!!!!! I Need serious Help with my 1956 Johnson SeaHorse Big Twin 30hp

OP needs an OEM Service Manual and some reading.

Anyone who tries to work on an outboard without a Manual has a fool for a mechanic. We can help you use your manual but we cannot be your manual.

www.outboardbooks.com

 

[1946Zephyr]

Re: PLEASE HELP!!!!! I Need serious Help with my 1956 Johnson SeaHorse Big Twin 30hp

OP needs an OEM Service Manual and some reading.

Anyone who tries to work on an outboard without a Manual has a fool for a mechanic. We can help you use your manual but we cannot be your manual.

www.outboardbooks.com

I wouldn't necessarily say that. Anyone who has a decent amount of outboard repair experience can actually work on a 1956 30hp outboard without a manual. LOL These are easy motors to work on and very reliable. I must say I have worked on bunches of these vintage outboards without buying a "certified OEM Factory Manual" My flunky Selocs have worked well.

From what I can tell in the pics posted above, this motor has been overheated enough to change the paint color towards the cylinder head area......NOT GOOD. In this case, it is a good idea to check the compression readings and see that the pistons are not badly scored, (which often times happens in the case of an overheat) If the compression readings are different from each other, then it's likely that this motor won't idle right. Bottom line is: a good running motor won't require a few minutes of fiddling to get it to run. Fiddling goes with a motor that has been awakened like a few oldies of my own. LOL

If a coil gets messed up, from a flywheel key shearing off, then obviously, the coils were not mounted right, simply because a properly mounted coil is made to have a flywheel whizzing past them at a high rate of speed, at all times and if a flywheel key sheared off this quickly, then it definately was not torqued to the correct setting. So I see a case of "he said, he said, and so on. With a motor like this, it's easy to see where things went wrong and see what we can do to make it right. So.....post back on what the compression readings are and let's go from there.