Once I hit 3000 RPMs the motor starts bogging down - 1989 Johnson 150 HP Outboard

newenglandguy

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Have a 1989 Johnson 150HP - Model Number J150STLCEM - and it runs fine sometimes, but occassionally starts bogging down consistently when it hits 3000 RPMs. Does anyone thing it might be fuel or fuel filter related? At idle, and up to 3000 RPMs, everything seems to be fine - no skipping, etc.

Can anyone tell me if an inline fuel filter is standard equipment on this motor? It has a metal canister style inline filter.

Thanks
 

Monte1961

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Re: Once I hit 3000 RPMs the motor starts bogging down - 1989 Johnson 150 HP Outboard

fog carb when it happens and see if it want to pick up and run or if nothing changes! post results!
 

newenglandguy

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Re: Once I hit 3000 RPMs the motor starts bogging down - 1989 Johnson 150 HP Outboard

fog carb when it happens and see if it want to pick up and run or if nothing changes! post results!

OK - I'm sort of a gear head, but mostly cars. How does one "fog carb"? I'm willing to try it. I'm wondering if it's maybe spraying something like starter fluid in it, but not going to do anything unless I figure out what it is. This Johnson had three dual barrel carburetors, and then some take of "air intake manifold" (again, remember my background is car engines) sitting on top of the carbs.

Thanks
 

boobie

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Re: Once I hit 3000 RPMs the motor starts bogging down - 1989 Johnson 150 HP Outboard

Stay away from starter fluid. Take the cover off of the front of the carbs, put some premix in a squirt can and get it to act up. Spray the premix in each carb throat and see what happens. If it picks up you either have dirty carbs or lack of fuel going to them.
 

newenglandguy

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Re: Once I hit 3000 RPMs the motor starts bogging down - 1989 Johnson 150 HP Outboard

Please be patient - again I'm new to boats and 2-cycle engines. I know I mix 16 oz of 2-cycle oil with six gallons of gas - so I would think that pre mix might be the 2-cycle, but again I want to be sure. The gas after adding the oil, to me would be "post mix" or mixture - but again, I'm trying to understand the lingo. Well, as it was raining, I took a spin up to the hardware store and now have a can of fogging oil. If I don't use it for this troubleshoot, I'll have it ready to winterize the rig.
Thanks
 

jonesg

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Re: Once I hit 3000 RPMs the motor starts bogging down - 1989 Johnson 150 HP Outboard

Theres an easier way, hit the choke when it starts bogging.
This dumps fuel into the intake manifold and bypasses the carbs, if it picks up rpm rebuild all the carbs with kits.

If it doesn't help , focus on ignition.
Use a timing light to see if its dropping spark to a cylinder.

Replace the fuel filter , if its not factory get rid of it, if factory replace with new.
 

newenglandguy

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Re: Once I hit 3000 RPMs the motor starts bogging down - 1989 Johnson 150 HP Outboard

First replaced fuel filter with factory replace - did have a metal can filter (like the old Wix 33032) as I figured let's start cheap and most obvious. That didn't work, so already rebuilt carbs. They actually looked pretty good as I was taking them apart, but rebuilts are back on, and same exact symptoms still exist.
 

ponyman460

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Re: Once I hit 3000 RPMs the motor starts bogging down - 1989 Johnson 150 HP Outboard

newenglandguy, did you ever resolve this issue?

I am having a similar issue....89 johnson 140, for me WOT =3000 RPM. I have looked at the carbs, and they are spotless. I was thinking ignition too....maybe the timing is out. I have read the procedure on how to set the timing, but I really am not sure that I understand it.

Just trying to figure out if you solved the problem.
 

stephenpence

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Re: Once I hit 3000 RPMs the motor starts bogging down - 1989 Johnson 150 HP Outboard

newenglandguy, did you ever resolve this issue?

I am having a similar issue....89 johnson 140, for me WOT =3000 RPM. I have looked at the carbs, and they are spotless. I was thinking ignition too....maybe the timing is out. I have read the procedure on how to set the timing, but I really am not sure that I understand it.

Just trying to figure out if you solved the problem.


+1! I'm trying to get my dad's old skeeter back up and running.. he's got a '91 Evinrude 150 XP (VE150SLEIE) on back and i've been trying to piece together the puzzle by reading posts.. but i've hit this dead end. I've rebuilt the carbs and the engine now fires up fine, idles fine, but i took her out for her second run (first run never got above 5mph... hence the carb rebuild) and she sounded strong. but once i let her loose on the open water she never planed out, or pushed past 3000-ish rpm's. I tried reaching back and pumping the bulb when i had it at WOT to see if it gave her a boost, but nothing noticeable changed. the bulb was pretty collapsed, but it sounds like that is normal when the engine is sucking in the fuel? I also noticed the Tach was only working sporadically, but when it was working or not didn't affect the performance of the engine again. I tested the compression of the cylinders when it was cold, and not really having run for 4 years, and they were all around 75psi. (ranged from 72-76) From what i've read, that's low, but i'm hoping it's come up now that she's been on the water and run. i know the fuel lines are getting brittle as i punctured the primer bulb when i primed the engine to trailer thhe boat. I'm not sure what to do for my next steps! it seems like it could be anything... power pack.. stator, coild, fuel starvation... i'm at a loss! if i don't get any hits here i'll start a new thread, it just seemed like a similar problem so i though, why re-create wheel! any help would be appreciated!! thanks all!
 

emdsapmgr

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Re: Once I hit 3000 RPMs the motor starts bogging down - 1989 Johnson 150 HP Outboard

When the engine starts to bog at 3000 rpm's have someone constantly prime the fuel hose bulb. If the engine runs fine when you constantly prime the fuel hose bulb, you may have a weak fuel pump.
 

stephenpence

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Re: Once I hit 3000 RPMs the motor starts bogging down - 1989 Johnson 150 HP Outboard

Should the primer bulb be full and round when the motor is running? or should it be kind of flattened? mine, while i could squeeze it and give it a little extra fuel, was definitely more flattened than round... From what i read, it won't stay hard like when its primed because it's drawing the fuel through the bulb, but i can't discern whether or not it should be semi-flat!
Thank you for your prompt response!!
 

emdsapmgr

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Re: Once I hit 3000 RPMs the motor starts bogging down - 1989 Johnson 150 HP Outboard

When running the bulb should look round-normal, but should be soft to the touch. If it starts to collapse on itself, that is a (bad) sign of a fuel restriction or a bad fuel line bulb. The pump is drawing more fuel than the hose (or tank) can provide. Almost like the fuel tank might not be vented... Check the anti-siphon valve (if you have a built-in tank) to make sure there is no crud in that ball valve restricting it's movement. I saw a restriction in a fuel tank years ago: a band-aid got sucked up in the fuel tank pickup and it would not draw fuel.
 

stephenpence

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Re: Once I hit 3000 RPMs the motor starts bogging down - 1989 Johnson 150 HP Outboard

When running the bulb should look round-normal, but should be soft to the touch. If it starts to collapse on itself, that is a (bad) sign of a fuel restriction or a bad fuel line bulb. The pump is drawing more fuel than the hose (or tank) can provide. Almost like the fuel tank might not be vented... Check the anti-siphon valve (if you have a built-in tank) to make sure there is no crud in that ball valve restricting it's movement. I saw a restriction in a fuel tank years ago: a band-aid got sucked up in the fuel tank pickup and it would not draw fuel.

Well, here are the results of today's test:
Constant alarm is sounding from the first time i turn the key on.
Fuel bulb was replaced, and ran directly from an auxiliary fuel tank.
when the motor topped out at 3000 rpm's, i compressed the bulb until it was hard as the engine was running, no change. at one point, i started the motor and the alarm didn't sound, but that didn't last more than 2 starts.
when i'm at 3000 rpm's.. the boat is at WOT and deep in the hole. i'm guessing 10-15mph..
Also, the tach only works sporadically.. i don't know if this is a symptom, but i have a new tach gauge i can install to see if that fixes THAT issue.
So... what should be my next test? does this look like a restriction in the motor? fuel filter or a dying fuel pump? Thanks in advance!!
 

BonairII

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Re: Once I hit 3000 RPMs the motor starts bogging down - 1989 Johnson 150 HP Outboard

Is the vent on the fuel tank open?

Have you drop tested all cylinders to confirm that they are firing?

Is the motor bogging at 3000rpm or will the motor not rev past 3k?
 

stephenpence

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Re: Once I hit 3000 RPMs the motor starts bogging down - 1989 Johnson 150 HP Outboard

From what i can tell, the tank is venting correctly, (no vaccum when opening the cap while running) and with the problem persisting with the very well vented gas can, i've eliminated that (i believe).
I have not tested the cylinders yet... from what i read.. that needs to be done under load.. and without a dyno.. or a partner to hold the wheel while i test them on the water.. i'm just having to assume they're firing. I can go pull the plugs real quick to see if there are any differences in appearance, but its been nearly 3 hours off the water.. i don't know how much i can learn from them at this point.
The problem is that the motor won't rev past 3k. still sounds strong and everything... but i have her pegged down at WOT and nothing.. no movement.. just sits at 3000 rpms.... I was thinking fuel problem.. but if the fuel filter is clean... i don't think that'll stand true.. whaddya think???
 

BonairII

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Re: Once I hit 3000 RPMs the motor starts bogging down - 1989 Johnson 150 HP Outboard

While motor is idling....disconnect a spark plug and motor should stumble a bit. Do this for each cylinder. If motor doesn't stumble when a plug wire is pulled...that cyl isn't firing.
Unfortunately, this test won't help you if you're dropping cyl(s) while running on the water.

Is your timing advancing correctly when you hit the throttle?
 

stephenpence

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Re: Once I hit 3000 RPMs the motor starts bogging down - 1989 Johnson 150 HP Outboard

I pulled the plugs and found that the plug on my number 4 cylinder is fouled. i connected the timing light to the wire for the cylinder and it gave me a good solid pulse, just like the other 2 cylinders on that bank, so i'm assuming its the plug. i doubt that this one plug is all of the problems, but it's good to get it replaced. the other 5 were the beautiful dry redish-brown color. of course when i went out this time the alarm wasn't sounding... i was going to pull the wires off of the vacuum sensor to see if that was, in fact, the sensor that keeps sounding.
Now, i haven't ever timed a boat. my motor has the timing call on a sticker on the block, (15 degrees bdc i think.. i'll have to look again... is it just as simple as connecting the light to the #1 wire, setting my light to the called setting (15 BDC or whatever) and looking at the mark on the flywheel? i'm not sure how to determine how to know if it is advancing 'correctly', but i can look to see if it is advancing at all... any pointers?
 

stephenpence

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Re: Once I hit 3000 RPMs the motor starts bogging down - 1989 Johnson 150 HP Outboard

I'll check that out first thing in the morning and let you know.
From what i understand.. the constant alarm on this motor is only for a temp alarm, and a fuel restriction alarm. IF i have a blown temp sensor, could that be forcing my engine into SLOW mode? what even IS slow mode?? and will it restrict the RPM's to 3000??
 

emdsapmgr

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Re: Once I hit 3000 RPMs the motor starts bogging down - 1989 Johnson 150 HP Outboard

This thread seems to have gotten off track. Am wondering what the latest status is from the original publisher of this thread, Newenglandguy?
 
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