mark munro
Cadet
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2002
- Messages
- 13
Hey all,
Trying to diagnose a no start problem and think it might be the Timer Base/ Sensor Coil, just curious for your thoughts.
Over the years I've had an issue where I came down to the boat, try to start it, and I have a no start with no spark. I have an extra power pak so I put it on and the problem goes away, BUT right away I put the "old" one that just wasn't running back on and it runs fine, arrgggh. I figured I was fixing a bad connection somewhere during the process of changing over paks but I could never figure out where the problem really was. This has happened a few times over the years.
The other day I was running WOT, which I rarely do, and I noticed it was missing a bit. Back off on the throttle and it seemed fine and idled fine. A few days later I went down to the boat and I had a no start with no spark. I changed my pak again but this time it didn't fix the problem.
I'm assuming that one of the paks is good so I tested the stator, output on both side is 130VAC. Tested the keyswitch/stop circuit, tested ok. Next I tested the Timer Base/ Sensor Coil, ohm test is fine. I don't have a DVA but I do have a digital storage scope so I put it on the proper connections for where I should be seeing a .2 to .5 Volt spike. What I see is a constant AC signal that approaches 9.5 Volts peak to peak, and that's with the ignition off and nothing running, odd. If I crank the engine I don't see anything but this AC signal. If I connect the negative on the scope to a good ground on the engine and connect the positive on the scope to the pins on the Timer Base/ Sensor Coil, it's 0 Volts sitting there and when I crank the engine I get some spiky noise in the 0 to 50 millivolt range but it does look like there's 150 milliVolt spikes every 300 milliseconds ......The book says I should see nothing in this test, bad Timer Base/ Sensor Coil?
Thanks,
Mark
Trying to diagnose a no start problem and think it might be the Timer Base/ Sensor Coil, just curious for your thoughts.
Over the years I've had an issue where I came down to the boat, try to start it, and I have a no start with no spark. I have an extra power pak so I put it on and the problem goes away, BUT right away I put the "old" one that just wasn't running back on and it runs fine, arrgggh. I figured I was fixing a bad connection somewhere during the process of changing over paks but I could never figure out where the problem really was. This has happened a few times over the years.
The other day I was running WOT, which I rarely do, and I noticed it was missing a bit. Back off on the throttle and it seemed fine and idled fine. A few days later I went down to the boat and I had a no start with no spark. I changed my pak again but this time it didn't fix the problem.
I'm assuming that one of the paks is good so I tested the stator, output on both side is 130VAC. Tested the keyswitch/stop circuit, tested ok. Next I tested the Timer Base/ Sensor Coil, ohm test is fine. I don't have a DVA but I do have a digital storage scope so I put it on the proper connections for where I should be seeing a .2 to .5 Volt spike. What I see is a constant AC signal that approaches 9.5 Volts peak to peak, and that's with the ignition off and nothing running, odd. If I crank the engine I don't see anything but this AC signal. If I connect the negative on the scope to a good ground on the engine and connect the positive on the scope to the pins on the Timer Base/ Sensor Coil, it's 0 Volts sitting there and when I crank the engine I get some spiky noise in the 0 to 50 millivolt range but it does look like there's 150 milliVolt spikes every 300 milliseconds ......The book says I should see nothing in this test, bad Timer Base/ Sensor Coil?
Thanks,
Mark