OMC 115 Temperature gauge question

Dags

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I have a 4 Winns Fling with a freshly rebuilt 115. This engine has overheated 2 times before I bought it and overheated after rebuild. Things seem to be fine right now... but... I'm using a thermo gun to constantly check the temp on #1. Instead of looking over my shoulder and pointing my laser, I would like to mount a temp sending unit to a gauge on the dash. If anyone has mounted a sensor, where and what kind should I buy? If there's an OMC unit, do you have the part #? I'm not looking for a water temp, I'd like the temp from the head.

Thanks in advance.
 

wilde1j

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Re: OMC 115 Temperature gauge question

Very easy. Just make sure to get outboard sender and gauge. Most heads have tapped bosses which accept a temp sender.

Teleflex Sender Install  1-23-2011 5-12-15 PM.jpg
 

Fed

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Re: OMC 115 Temperature gauge question

Unless you're prepared to drive with your eyes glued to the gauge then there's no point, I'd rather ensure the alarm system is working 100%.
 

Dags

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Re: OMC 115 Temperature gauge question

Unless you're prepared to drive with your eyes glued to the gauge then there's no point, I'd rather ensure the alarm system is working 100%.

That's not the point. Alarm is working 100%... but would rather not hear it because that means it's over 200 which could lead to avoidable problems if I have a reading in front of my eyes. I'd rather spend my money on something that will help me avoid an issue that could cost a couple G's.
 

Dags

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Re: OMC 115 Temperature gauge question

Back to the original question: Does anyone have a recommendation for the install? Model or brand?
 

Dags

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Re: OMC 115 Temperature gauge question

What about the sending unit? In your picture, I would like to mount it like either #2 or #4. I don't want to drill into the block to get the water temp... didn't find a plugged hole to do so. Would just like to get the surface temp. I've been using a thermo gun on the top of #1 to get the reading while cruising... which is kind of unsafe.
 

bang4dabuck

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Re: OMC 115 Temperature gauge question

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h51/40oldtimer19/Electrics/HeadTempSender60-220Degrees.jpg

This is what I got on both my heads. You have to make the BEND your self, not really a big deal as long as you avoid bending area where sender is (I used a VISE). One of mine does pop loose but am going to hit it with some LOCKTITE RED (only where it contacts the mount). These are something you usually have to get shipped to you. Faria also has clearance on gauges. Great Lakes Skipper is pretty good for this. Make sure you get OUTBOARD temperature gauges. Good idea to get a water pressure gauge. You can use Teleflex pitot hose they sell at every West Marine.
 

Dags

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Re: OMC 115 Temperature gauge question

Would the Teleflex sensor work by reading the top of the head? I can work on getting a water pressure gauge down the road, just need to keep track of the head temp to make sure it's running cooler. I'm rebuilding the carb tomorrow... that might be one of the problems with #1 overheating... not sure it's getting enough fuel. It wasn't rebuilt with the engine.
 

bang4dabuck

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Re: OMC 115 Temperature gauge question

Those are FARIA. Not sure what TELEFLEX has but probably easier to get a hold of. You can definitely go to a BRP dealer and get OEM stuff. Too bad some of these links don't work but the next to last post has a good diagram of BRP.

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=253183
 

Haffiman

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Re: OMC 115 Temperature gauge question

Drop the temp sender and install a pressure instrument right away!
To get full info from a temp instrument, you need two, one on each bank. The pressure instruments reads the system and gives a much earlier warning than the temp sender. As soon as you need to increase rpm to obtain 'normal' pressure, you know that something is starting to get wrong. The temp instrument only tells when it is too late.
 

Dags

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Re: OMC 115 Temperature gauge question

I'm just interested in getting the temp from #1 which is the one that had problems twice now. Seeing it hit 170+ is early enough warning for me. I don't want to get fancy and start tapping into the block and make a big project out of it. Thanks for your input, but I'm going with the temp sensor on the surface of the head as my early warning.
 

wilde1j

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Re: OMC 115 Temperature gauge question

My suggestion would be to contact Teleflex customer support. The last gauge set bought came with a Z bracket, so the sender could be installed in a threaded boss or surface mounted. Instead of getting a bunch of WAGS, go to the source.
 

Haffiman

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Re: OMC 115 Temperature gauge question

I'm just interested in getting the temp from #1 which is the one that had problems twice now. Seeing it hit 170+ is early enough warning for me. I don't want to get fancy and start tapping into the block and make a big project out of it. Thanks for your input, but I'm going with the temp sensor on the surface of the head as my early warning.

It is the simplest of all installations.
A T into the pee-hose from exhaust manifold, a hose (pressure log type) to the dashboard and instrument.
A cylinder temp problem might not always be related to engine cooling. A lean running cylinder might even give an 'overheat' situation!
Are you sure you are chasing the correct source of damage?
 

emdsapmgr

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Re: OMC 115 Temperature gauge question

You should be able to get a good gauge and matching sender from teleflex. I'd only buy a gauge that has actual degree temperature markings, not one that has a range from C to H as shown in a picture above. You did not mention the year of your 115. If it's a crossflow, you will need a Z bracket. The previously mentioned "Z" bracket works well-just be sure the flat tip of the sender is tight against a flat spot on the head. Some of the later loopers may have a tapped hole in the head to accept a temp sending unit. I'd be looking for idle temps between 143 and 150. Maybe 155 when idling on a hot afternoon in a warm body of water. Cooler readings when the boat is up on plane.
 

wilde1j

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Re: OMC 115 Temperature gauge question

Most J/E 4 and 6 cylinder motors have the heads tapped (I put a temp gauge on a '73 135HP and it had tapped boss on each head (they are never plugged from my memory, just a blind tapped hole like the picture second from left.) When you install in a blind hole, use some sort of grease (Crisco shortening or any grease will work for better heat transfer). Don't overdo the amount of grease either.
 

Dags

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Re: OMC 115 Temperature gauge question

You should be able to get a good gauge and matching sender from teleflex. I'd only buy a gauge that has actual degree temperature markings, not one that has a range from C to H as shown in a picture above. You did not mention the year of your 115. If it's a crossflow, you will need a Z bracket. The previously mentioned "Z" bracket works well-just be sure the flat tip of the sender is tight against a flat spot on the head. Some of the later loopers may have a tapped hole in the head to accept a temp sending unit. I'd be looking for idle temps between 143 and 150. Maybe 155 when idling on a hot afternoon in a warm body of water. Cooler readings when the boat is up on plane.

It's a '96 crossflow. Looked at the top of the head, don't see any spots to tap. I see a spot on the block I could attach the "z" bracket... to reach over to the head.

I just rebuilt the carb today and will be taking out on the water tomorrow and see if that was the problem. Don't think she's running lean... runnig 25-1 in the tank too for break in. All hoses are tight, no air leaks.
 

Fed

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Re: OMC 115 Temperature gauge question

My 1988 90HP V4 crossflow has a tapped boss on the side of the starboard top cylinder a couple of inches forward of the head.
I'm pretty sure the break in ratio is 25 to 1 so you might want to check that.
 

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emdsapmgr

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Re: OMC 115 Temperature gauge question

Some of the heads have small raised (dimpled) round areas on the head cover face. You can remove a head cover screw, screw the Z bracket to that, and mount the tip of the sender to match the small round dimple in the head cover casting. I sand the paint off that small dimple to make better contact.
 
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