1.5 Evinrude Mate

Dice1

Cadet
Joined
Jul 15, 2011
Messages
8
On my way home I saw this little motor in a Trash bin. So being me I had to stop to grab it. Took it home and started cleaning the housing and lower unit. After that I spun the motor by hand and it turns with the feeling of compression in the cylinder. I have yet to pull the plug and check the carb. But the tank is rust free and did not check if the prop spun when I turned the motor over being a direct drive to the prop I think. I am not 100% of what all the items on the front of the motor actually do and if the throttle is controlled by the wing on top of the motor where it says Stop Start Fast. any help on this engine would be apriciated. This is a perfect little motor for my jon boat and is light so I can carry it any where.
 

kfa4303

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Sep 17, 2010
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Re: 1.5 Evinrude Mate

Hi Dice1. Welcome to ibaots. If you could mind a model number on the motor that would help, but I think the motor in this pic is more or less what you're describing.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?VISuperSize&item=280661076278

If so, then we can walk you through what all the knobs and levers do. We'll start at the top and work our way down. The round wheel on top that you wrap the rope around to pull start the motor is called the fly wheel. Beneath it is the ignition system sometimes called a magento. It contains the point(s) and condenser(s) and the sparkplug wire(s) that come out towards the spark plug(s). Right below the fly wheel is the "wing" you referred to. It is the timing advance lever. And is used just as it's labeled with one position for starting, one for stopping and one for while you're under way. This would normally be done by a twisty grip in the throttle on most other/larger motors, but yous is done by hand.As you move the arm from the Start-Fast, the rpms should go up.
Below the "wing" are the knobs and buttons. There is probably one that says CHOKE. You pull that out to "choke off" the air flow to the carb and therefore increase the relative amount of fuel to air (i.e. make the fuel air mix very rich). Once running the choke can be pushed back in to its original position. There should be one other knob that says Lean <-----> Rich. This is used to adjust/dial in just the right fuel:air mix in the carb and will have to be adjusted in a test tank and/or out on the open water. Can't use muffs on these guys. Here's a link that shows a similar motor being operated in a test tank. It should give you some idea of what to expect. Notice how her adjusts the "wing" to increase the rpms and how he uses the Lean ---- Rich know to dial in a nice idle.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L0zw8Rut-Zs&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d9r-HiqU74g

All that being said. There may be a reason it was in the trash heap. Test the compression to see if the motors is worth saving. Probably want compression over 40psi, but someone else may correct me. If the compression is ok, then the rest can be fixed pretty easily, if not it's probably not worth the trouble. Hope that helps. Keep us posted.
 

Dice1

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Jul 15, 2011
Messages
8
Re: 1.5 Evinrude Mate

I do know my way around a motor and what it all means but being as old as it is I just wanna be able to save this thing properly. And that it runs off the points set with the Magnito. I am more familiar with Chrysler automotive engines and drive trains. I saw a small splinned shaft under the body which I cannot Identify.
 

Dice1

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Jul 15, 2011
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Re: 1.5 Evinrude Mate

Cleaned out the carb. Next is to take the Flywheel off. Any advice to remove flywheel to check the points set and ignition.
 

kfa4303

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Re: 1.5 Evinrude Mate

Hey dice1. You'll probably need a flywheel puller using 3 grade 8 bolts screwed in about 1/2". You can get the puller at most auto parts stores for about $15. Lots of threads on how to use one. A strap wrench is handy for holding the flywheel in place. Whatever you do, don;t hit the fly wheel to try to remove it. It may be a bit stubborn, but it will come off. Once it's off probably worth it to just replace the point(s) and condenser(s) while you're there. Make sure none of the wires are frayed either. Here's a pic of the puller and a link on how to use it.

http://tinypic.com/675h5z

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=159727&pagenumber=
 

nwcove

Admiral
Joined
May 16, 2011
Messages
6,293
Re: 1.5 Evinrude Mate

nice find dice! if it has "ok" compression and the gear case is ok.....its worth the ignition parts and a carb kit. (how do people find these lil gems.....in the garbage!!!! lol)
 

Dice1

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Jul 15, 2011
Messages
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Re: 1.5 Evinrude Mate

OK I never thought of a strap wrench. I am just worried that the flywheel looks like it has never been off the motor before because the paint is still good on the nut (or was until I put a socket on there). I am just not sure if I can get the puller on there because the the bolt holes just look to small to due so. I am going to take it to my friends shop and see if we cant zip the bolt off the top with an impact wrench.
 

kfa4303

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Re: 1.5 Evinrude Mate

No prob. You can use and impact wrench to get it off, but be careful using it to put it back on, theses motors have pretty particular flywheel torque specs. The fly wheel is really the hardest part of all. Once it's off you'll see all of the ignition stuff plain as day. Good luck.
 

Dice1

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Jul 15, 2011
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Re: 1.5 Evinrude Mate

Ok got the pull start off with the strap wrench. Now I can see where the screws go for puller.
 

kfa4303

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Re: 1.5 Evinrude Mate

cool. be sure you don't screw the bolts in too far. 3/8" -1/2" is all you need. If you twist them in any deeper you might hit some of the ignition components beneath the flywheel. Keep them nice and level too. Luckily, it should come off pretty easily b/c it's so small. It may make sort of a loud clap/bang sound when it comes free, but that's normal. Keep an eye on the flywheel/woodruff key. You don't want to loose that. Also, once you've loosened the flywheel nut don't take it off all the way. Leave it a few twists on, then remove the flywheel with the puller. The nut will keep the flywheel from jumping up too high when it comes free. It's probably not that big of a deal for such a little motor, but it's a good habit for anything larger. Good luck. Keep us posted.
 

Dice1

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Jul 15, 2011
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Re: 1.5 Evinrude Mate

Ok well the flywheel came off and the ignition looks like it has never been replaced. The coil is marked the same as the plug on the side of the motor. So I am now just waiting on the points and coil to come in so I can replace them. I need to take the Tank off to replace the petcock but I can not get a good grip on the screws that hold it in place. I do not wanna strip the head of them. Should I soak it with PB Blaster or just try and crack them loose?
 

kfa4303

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Re: 1.5 Evinrude Mate

A little PB never hurts. Give it a blast and some time, they may come loose. You definitely don't want to strip them. Patience is well rewarded when it comes to tinkering with these old motors. Glad you got the flywheel off. I would recommend a new spark plug wire too. It will make a huge difference. You can buy 7mm copper core spark plug wire from NAPA for about $3 a foot and you shouldn't need more than 3 feet and one new boot ($.50). New coil, point, condenser, spark plug and spark plug wire and you have an entirely new ignition for less than $50 or so.
 
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