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1953 Johnson Seahorse 10 HP- Set up

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  • 1953 Johnson Seahorse 10 HP- Set up

    Hi, I have this QD-14 Motor which I have been able to get running. I don't understand how to adjust the rich/lean for high and low speed. Also, lots of smoke when running at 35-1 mixture. Any help with set-up procedure and any idea where I can get a manual without paying for it?

    All help is greatly appreciated.


  • #2
    Re: 1953 Johnson Seahorse 10 HP- Set up

    here you go brinner. This should help with the carb set up. The top needle on your carb is the "Lo" speed needle. The lower needle is the "Hi" speed needle. Hope it helps.

    http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=167352

    Comment



    • #3
      Re: 1953 Johnson Seahorse 10 HP- Set up

      Originally posted by kfa4303 View Post
      here you go brinner. This should help with the carb set up. The top needle on your carb is the "Lo" speed needle. The lower needle is the "Hi" speed needle. Hope it helps.

      http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=167352
      Thanks. The high speed has a gauge from 1-6 on the knob and will only turn out 1/2 turn. The linkage from the knob goes to the bottom of the carb but only turns in or out 1/2 turn.

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      • #4
        Re: 1953 Johnson Seahorse 10 HP- Set up

        That engine requires a 24:1 fuel mix, Brinner. How did you come up with 35:1??

        To get a Manual without paying for it you would have to do something illegal, unless you just go to the library.
        sigpic

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        • #5
          Re: 1953 Johnson Seahorse 10 HP- Set up

          No worries Brinner, the linkage between the two needles can be disconnected so that you can remove them fully. JB is right about the fuel oil mix too. you want 24:1. some folks even run 16:1 just to be safe. better a bit too much oil in these old motors, than not enough. After you've disconnected the two needles from each other, you should be able to back them out all the way, inspect them, then put them back in place. You may need to fiddle with the two needles, as well as the idle set screw at the base of the vertical throttle tower, to get the idle dialed in just right, but once you've got them set you should be fine. Just be sure you always run the motor in a tank of water filled up to an inch or so below the exhaust port. These old gems won't run on muffs. Also, no "pee" stream on these guys, so don't worry if you don't see one. Keep us posted. We'll get you through any problems you find. These old 10hp are great little motors and generally worth the effort.

          Comment



          • #6
            Re: 1953 Johnson Seahorse 10 HP- Set up

            Hey guys, got the old girl running over the weekend. Had to tweak the high and low settings but seems to work great now. Had a few small issues. First, a few times I would get going in high and then the motor would just die. I would re-start and go and everything would be fine. Secondly, I had a few moments when I dropped her into reverse and the prop tried to back right out of the water! Figured out to hold the top when doing so. Should I engage the forward/reverse during idle or have a higher rpm going?

            Thanks for the input!

            Brinner

            Comment



            • #7
              Re: 1953 Johnson Seahorse 10 HP- Set up

              Originally posted by kfa4303 View Post
              No worries Brinner, the linkage between the two needles can be disconnected so that you can remove them fully. JB is right about the fuel oil mix too. you want 24:1. some folks even run 16:1 just to be safe. better a bit too much oil in these old motors, than not enough. After you've disconnected the two needles from each other, you should be able to back them out all the way, inspect them, then put them back in place. You may need to fiddle with the two needles, as well as the idle set screw at the base of the vertical throttle tower, to get the idle dialed in just right, but once you've got them set you should be fine. Just be sure you always run the motor in a tank of water filled up to an inch or so below the exhaust port. These old gems won't run on muffs. Also, no "pee" stream on these guys, so don't worry if you don't see one. Keep us posted. We'll get you through any problems you find. These old 10hp are great little motors and generally worth the effort.
              See my next entry.

              Comment

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