'89 Evinrude 120 - Ignition Test

[kitebuz]

So, no spark on my port engine the last time I tried to run it in the fall. I did the basic tests to confirm that their was no spark on any of the 4 plugs, and unplugged the key switch to powerpack to make sure that wasn't bad.

I started in on the Output Test as per the OMC manual for testing the Stator, Timer Base, and Powerpack.

While separating the 2-pin amphenol connector from the stator to powerpack in 1st round of test, I noticed corrosion around one wire - turns out it was really not connected, and pulled right out...

Maybe it's an easy fix after-all, but still not sure. I checked for ground (just connected straight to the wire vs thru the plug for it), and no voltage (good).

I then did the Output Test. It says if >175V move to the next step (Timer). If <175, check wiring & connections (fail). I was showing zero volts though. It says if wiring is good, check for ohms (should be 480 +- 50) - which I did, but also got zero.

So I am showing zero juice on the charge coil (stator). Could this be entirely due to a bad wire as pictured? I would think I should see at least some juice despite the corrosion. I am thinking to pull the fly wheel, replace the stator wiring, and do a visual inspection of the stator before proceeding any further to testing the timer base.

Any suggestions or thoughts on what else I should do, test, or try?

Thanks

 

[kitebuz]

Re: '89 Evinrude 120 - Ignition Test

Is there any reason I can't just butt splice in a fresh section of wire w/ a new amphenol connector to reconnect the stator?

 

[jeffersondodson561]

Re: '89 Evinrude 120 - Ignition Test

If you decide to do this, I would make sure you butt connect with heat shrink, and put an exterior heat shrink on it too. The reason is you don't want to have a short to ground.

 

[kitebuz]

Re: '89 Evinrude 120 - Ignition Test

Agreed - will use heat shrink w/ adhesive butt splice & good idea to shrink wrap over the whole thing - will do.

 

[kitebuz]

Re: '89 Evinrude 120 - Ignition Test

Tried yesterday to get the flywheel off to inspect the stator and get better access to splice the wire, but the nut is stubborn. Will resort to impact wrench (as suggested in the top secret file) as I don't have the proper flywheel turner tool.

 

[wilde1j]

Re: '89 Evinrude 120 - Ignition Test

You will need something to hold it to put it back ... it MUST be torqued. You can get a flywheel turner for < $30 on Ebay.

 

[kitebuz]

Re: '89 Evinrude 120 - Ignition Test

You will need something to hold it to put it back ... it MUST be torqued. You can get a flywheel turner for < $30 on Ebay.

Good point - I hadn't thought that far ahead. I'll go ahead and get one now to help remove it as well.

 

[kitebuz]

Re: '89 Evinrude 120 - Ignition Test

Success! After butt splicing a new section of wiring on the amphenol connector pictured - still no spark. Tried a spare powerpack a friend had, and nothing. Finally wrestled the darn flywheel off, replaced the charge coil, and boom - spark! Running like a top yesterday. She started right up like I had run her 6 days ago - not 6 months.

 

[kitebuz]

Re: '89 Evinrude 120 - Ignition Test

Resurrecting my thread from last year - it's like deja vue. Started my motors last Sat in the driveway for the 1st time of the season. This one was a little rough start - seemed like one side didn't kick in for a little while, but it did after warming up and seemed to idle well.

Went to launch on Sunday, and it just would not start. Checked it today - & I don't have spark again. Checked the Charge Coil, & I was getting a low voltage off it - 65v vs the recommended >175v. Ohms were low too - 395 vs the spec of 480 (+/- 50).

I will get another charge coil on there & see if that gets my spark back. While it was running last season, I would still get this strange 1,000 rpm drop (felt like I was loosing a cylinder) after running @ 30 minutes. It was intermittent, would only happen after running for 20-30min, and would usually pop-back up to normal rpm after a little while. Very random though. Pumping primer had no effect. It had this same issue before my last charge coil went out.

Is there another part of the ignition system that could be faulty and burning out the charge coil? I put a used one on for the last repair, so maybe it was just on its way out as well.

I also tested compression today, which looked good. Cold #'s were: 105, 105, 95, 105.