j_k_bisson
Lieutenant Junior Grade
- Joined
- Oct 6, 2010
- Messages
- 1,082
I'm starting this thread because it does not fit into the Fiberglass section of Iboats. I just finished off the majority of the transom rebuild of my 1991 Bayliner Trophy 2002WA. And It's time to start the motor. I bought this motor as a basket case for $400. It did not run, nor was it completely assembled. It was in pieces on the guys floor. The power head actually came home in the front seat in my 2002 Ford Focus four door sedan. While the rest was in the back seat and truck. To say the least I have a major project on my hands. Why I decided to use this motor was two fold. First it was a fresh water motor, second I wanted a project! I love Projects!
The guy I bought it off stated the power head did not match the leg. He had bought the power head complete motor for the extra long shaft leg attached to it to use on his Boat. So he did a power head swap. The identification plate on the leg I have is for a 1986 200 hp stlcua. The power head still needs to be positively identified as to model. I believe it is a 1987 200hp stl or XP. I base this finding on a number of things. They are:
1) Carb Jetting size. (Idel #48, Mid #14, High #74D)
2) Carb to intake gasket. The gasket matches the STLCUA model and not the TLXCUC Two round holes on edge of gasket and not the one round and one oblong hole.
3) The plastic air breather extra insert.
From my reseach there is a difference in the bore size of the carbs and the heads are possibly different as well. But also the 225 and 200tlx have the same carbs but different heads. It a bit confussing to me.
First question: How do I positively Identify the power size and model? The plug with the model number is missing. The guy I bought it off of has not provided me the model number of the leg he has, after repeated requests. Is there some casting number in the head that will identify this power head.
I have removed the head from the block and inspected the bore of each cyclinder. They have no scoring and can still see the honing marks. The pistons are marked as .030 oversize. So someone has had this motor go south on them before. The Stator also appears to be melted so that system will need attention.
I plan on doing the following things to it in order to get it ready for my boat;
1) Strip down the block to the reed plate and heads. Do a basic dimensional and visual inspections for issue. Ie Bad reeds, bore size, and head flatness.
2) Reassemble the block with complete new gaskets. Still have not decided weather or not I will replace the main seals top and bottom. Local dealer is saying that they rearly go. (Advise wanted on this issue)
3) Complete water system maintence. Also conversion to the modified thermostart method. Seams the motor has already been done.
4) Complete electrical system check and maintence, Check every electrical contact point and inspect for wear and corosion. Also check every component for funtionallity.
5) Complete fuel system rebuild and inspection. Plan on rebuilding all carbs, VRO fuel pump, and going with a premix system. (possible VRO pump replacement with a non VRO pump, any ideas and recommendation would be appreciated)
6) Whole motor midsection and leg disassembled, cleaned, sand blasted, and repainted to proper primer and paints. (XP blue if model is same)
7) Trim system disassembly and clean and inspection. If anything needs rebuild then it will be done on an as needed basis.
8) Rebuild starter and trim pump. Actually looking at ording a new started and rebuild trim pump. Unless new pump is cheap enough.
Here is a couple of pics of the motor.
Now I'm sure there are people out there thinking I'm nuts. And I can probably buy a running motor for what I am going to sink into this one. But I am not nuts, like I said earlier I love projects. Also in order for me to feel safe when I am 10-20 mile from shore I would go through any motor the same as I am planning on doing here. I am a Engineer by trade and do not assume anything in life. Whe I do assume things, they usually come back and bites me in the a**. And for me its normally when I am 25 miles from shore in 6-7ft swells.
I picked this motor soully on the price alone. The name brand helped a bit. From my understanding Evinrude and Johnsons from these two years (86-87) and size where geat motors other than the VRO giving out and Startors burning out.
I hope everyone is in for a good ride/show while I do this, and I hope it comes out in the end.
The guy I bought it off stated the power head did not match the leg. He had bought the power head complete motor for the extra long shaft leg attached to it to use on his Boat. So he did a power head swap. The identification plate on the leg I have is for a 1986 200 hp stlcua. The power head still needs to be positively identified as to model. I believe it is a 1987 200hp stl or XP. I base this finding on a number of things. They are:
1) Carb Jetting size. (Idel #48, Mid #14, High #74D)
2) Carb to intake gasket. The gasket matches the STLCUA model and not the TLXCUC Two round holes on edge of gasket and not the one round and one oblong hole.
3) The plastic air breather extra insert.
From my reseach there is a difference in the bore size of the carbs and the heads are possibly different as well. But also the 225 and 200tlx have the same carbs but different heads. It a bit confussing to me.
First question: How do I positively Identify the power size and model? The plug with the model number is missing. The guy I bought it off of has not provided me the model number of the leg he has, after repeated requests. Is there some casting number in the head that will identify this power head.
I have removed the head from the block and inspected the bore of each cyclinder. They have no scoring and can still see the honing marks. The pistons are marked as .030 oversize. So someone has had this motor go south on them before. The Stator also appears to be melted so that system will need attention.
I plan on doing the following things to it in order to get it ready for my boat;
1) Strip down the block to the reed plate and heads. Do a basic dimensional and visual inspections for issue. Ie Bad reeds, bore size, and head flatness.
2) Reassemble the block with complete new gaskets. Still have not decided weather or not I will replace the main seals top and bottom. Local dealer is saying that they rearly go. (Advise wanted on this issue)
3) Complete water system maintence. Also conversion to the modified thermostart method. Seams the motor has already been done.
4) Complete electrical system check and maintence, Check every electrical contact point and inspect for wear and corosion. Also check every component for funtionallity.
5) Complete fuel system rebuild and inspection. Plan on rebuilding all carbs, VRO fuel pump, and going with a premix system. (possible VRO pump replacement with a non VRO pump, any ideas and recommendation would be appreciated)
6) Whole motor midsection and leg disassembled, cleaned, sand blasted, and repainted to proper primer and paints. (XP blue if model is same)
7) Trim system disassembly and clean and inspection. If anything needs rebuild then it will be done on an as needed basis.
8) Rebuild starter and trim pump. Actually looking at ording a new started and rebuild trim pump. Unless new pump is cheap enough.
Here is a couple of pics of the motor.
Now I'm sure there are people out there thinking I'm nuts. And I can probably buy a running motor for what I am going to sink into this one. But I am not nuts, like I said earlier I love projects. Also in order for me to feel safe when I am 10-20 mile from shore I would go through any motor the same as I am planning on doing here. I am a Engineer by trade and do not assume anything in life. Whe I do assume things, they usually come back and bites me in the a**. And for me its normally when I am 25 miles from shore in 6-7ft swells.
I picked this motor soully on the price alone. The name brand helped a bit. From my understanding Evinrude and Johnsons from these two years (86-87) and size where geat motors other than the VRO giving out and Startors burning out.
I hope everyone is in for a good ride/show while I do this, and I hope it comes out in the end.
