Re: 1986 Johnson 90 V4 flywheel removal...
Ultimate success! I thought I would provide my experience so to help others, now that I am a **certified Stator replacemnt guy.. More on that later. My project involves a '2000 Johnson 200 HP Ocean Runner/Looper engine. I don't want everyone to expect their application to mimic my spec's but after discussing w/ my 'Real Expert', he describes the puller bolt size for my typical engine size range to be: ?I just use the bolts that came w/ the puller?, and that summary prompts me to believe the size is 'TYPICAL'. (I'm sure his puller is a factory correct OMC tool... My flywheel puller bolt size was actually 8 MM, not 5/16"! I used a standard sized Harmonic Balancer / puller. My ultimately used bolt length was 3.5" but I think as short as 2" would be adequate. Yes the thread size is 'Fine' and grade 8 worked fine w/ no failure. What a collection I now have - (4) 4" 5/16" standard thread, (3) 4" 5/16" fine thread and the correct (3) 3.5" 8MM fine thread. Hey, I only purchased (4) Grade 8 washers!
Flywheel nut size: I will not share the futile frustration this socket procurement endured, to simply share that a 36MM socket bought a Sears was the right tool. Yes the nut size is 1-7/16" but not having to a better ?thin-walled? tool retailer like Snap-on, or otherwise, I unsuccessfully called at least 10 local options to ultimately have Sears success. DO NOT buy the Sears 1-7/16" 3/4" drive w/ a 1/2 to 3/4" drive adapter. The socket wall thickness is gigantic and I can't imagine the others that decided to grind off the excess socket tip material so that it would fit in the MUCH SMALLER flywheel recess diameter! The 36MM worked and fit perfectly.
Here's the last bit of nut removal advice I can share. We tried numerous half-as_ methods to keep the flywheel from spinning to break the nut, all failing miserably. Having **'BUD'S" as a friend, we were able to borrow a 'Flywheel Tool'. We did not try the wedging a bar between one/two of the puller bolts, like I have read as an option by others here, but frankly I think serious damage to the bolts/flywheel puller bolt holes plugged w/ sheared/snapped bolt heads? would occur and I am not sure how the socket breaker bar w/ fit along w/ bar crossed to two of the puller bolts. Everything would be struggling for the small and very limited space. My advise would be that any weekend warrior like me would be best served to get a ?Flywheel Tool? lined up to take on a flywheel removal project on an engine size that my little 200 HP required. (rememberthe nut is torqed to 150 ft #?s. I was lucky to have a friend who lent me one. I am not sure if you can easily rent one or what, but do yourself a favor and just get one. (It looks like a small 'Log Pick' the lumber jacks use. We applied the tool so that the one end was jammed against the starter shroud, and it worked!
I am not sure if the fact that I had sprayed AeroKroil (Sp?) penetrating oil on the nut and flywheel recess a week before, but after significant puller bolt pressure was applied the flywheel exploded w/ a loud bang. We actually thought something broke it was so dramatic! W/ the flywheel socket left loose but on the shaft the flywheel and key seperated perfectly.
**In my crisis time of need, I, or should I correctly say my friend Bryan made a desperate and very embarrassed call to 'The Expert of the South Shore'! I need to STRONGLY REQUEST that no one even thinks about reaching out to our friend to borrow anything! He is a friend and we were just darn lucky to have a friend like Bud Jr.! He will not loan anything out, period.
My project was a Stator replacement. We called Bud's Marine (in Ocean City NJ) and we were quickly driving to see Bud Jr. who offered to loan us his flywheel tool. Our short talk essentially included by Bud, what time of 'late night' did you two genius' decide to take on this type of project yourselves, w/ a very pregnant silence to follow. He then quickly explained what the entire task was to include which left me very scared and ready to jump in the nearby bay, defaulted to think I would probably be first in line on May 28th being the first available repair appointment his shop had available now. With a glimmer in his speculative eye, knowing the inexperience he was hand holding, he said if we were miraculously able to pull this entire project off successfully, he would hire us part-time......We later embellished this to actually mean we would be Bud's 'Certified Marine Mechanics' if we pulled this GD miracle off! Now scared to death we left. Me yelling at my buddy who said if I order the part we could just slap it in, no problem! Now convinced certain doom when my buddy Brian's eyes also glossed over when Bud further described the need to completely dismember and essentially remove the Power Pack and all of the intricate care to rebuild all of the wiring and connections w/ out the very likely possibility of pinching this and crushing/shearing that.
Was Bud Jr. so very surprised when we beamingly returned the tool just hours later boosting SUCESS! Turned out, you are safe to know, that we will not be working on anyone else's boat/engine at his place EVER. Good luck to you all and I Can't thank you Bud Jr enough! As you may know, Bud's Marine (in OC) is the best Johnson/Evinrude mechanic in the South Shore! Thank you so very much my friend Bryan! We did it!
