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Johnson 150 Ocean runner problem

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  • Johnson 150 Ocean runner problem

    Had boat out 4 times this past month and had no problems in idle or getting up on plane at WOT. The 5th time I took it out I cruised maybe 20 miles and headed back close to shore and shut off engine. One hour later I start it but shuts off when you engage gears it sputters spits and dies. I have this same problem even when the outboard is immersed in a 100 gallon test tank . It s smoking alot as well. So this is what I have done so far with no luck. rebuilt all six carbs with new bowls carb kit , replaced plugs, replaced power pack, replaced cleaned fuel vapor separator, primer valve,I get a blue spark cranking, bypassed boat gas tank with 6 gallon, bypassed vro checked compression 102-105 etc. With all this done to it It still does the same thing as it did originally. So now im starting to suspect either the optic sensor/timing wheel or the flywheel magnets coming loose.This engine which is a 60 degree looper carbed starts fine but misses and smokes alot so when you engage forward or reverse it boggs down and dies. I do not have a Peak reading meter to check for peak voltage but I did do a resistance test on the 2 stator circuits and they were very close to what the specs call for.I can't belive the tining could change on its own as i don't have the sync and link tool to set the timing. I forgot to mention I also cleaned the throttle bodies and tried 4 , 5 and 6 turns out from fully seated and it does not make any difference. Anybody have any ideas??


  • #2
    Re: Johnson 150 Ocean runner problem

    What yr and model number .

    In the meantime,

    put a timing light on each cyl wire and shine it on the timing wheel, watch for the correct cyl number to light up , check if its double firing too ( double flash) don't shine light at optical sensor. Best done out of direct sun.

    What gap did you set the spark tester? Can't use a sparkplug to test spark.

    After choking and cranking the starter do the plugs come out wet w/gas?

    I'd suspect an air leak around the carbs due to the smoking, the oil side of the pump will cycle faster. Any alarms?

    Are all the carb plates fully closed at idle?

    I don't know of any special tool needed to link and sync.
    sigpic
    See FAQ Files.
    http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=299680

    Get the genuine factory service manual.
    www.outboardbooks.com
    www.*****************

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    • #3
      Re: Johnson 150 Ocean runner problem

      Yes they do look wet like they are not getting spark all the time. Spark gap .030ql78yc plugs. I Very much doubt the carbs are at fault because it ran like a top prior and I never had any hesitation or lo / hi transition problems. The carb plates are closed the timing has not been disturbed (as of yet) a timing light will show each cylinder on the timing wheel at idle but my quick start is not always there and I replaced it with a new power pack and the outcome is the same. That is why Im thinking the problem has got to be somewhere on the top of the motor. It went from running good to running very bad instantly and not over a period of time. The tops of all the pistons look a normal dark color and there is no water droplets on the plugs . All temp/warm up sensor switchs are good. Something is affecting all the cylinders. Anyone ever pull the flywheel on these motors before without loosing a finger ? What would I need tool wise? 96 J150exedb

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      • #4
        Re: Johnson 150 Ocean runner problem

        The flywheel should have 5 bolts, so it will be easy to remove. I would inspect the wiring between the Quickstart sensor and the powerpack, to look for shorts.

        Extra smoke means extra oil. This can be caused by an airleak in the gasoline side of the OMS system. Check the main strainer, gaskets and oring.

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        • #5
          Re: Johnson 150 Ocean runner problem

          Thanks chris1956, But I already done that. I hooked up my 6 gallon kicker motor tank right to the fuel side vro and also tried 50:1 premix on this tank with oil inlet disconnected on the vro and results are the same no change same smokey outcome and misfire and dies when put in gear just like when original boat tank is hooked up. I rebuilt/cleaned the vapor/separator with new seal and float kit from BRP. NO fuel leaks anywhere to be found on engine primer ball will get hard after you pump it like it always did. No fuel overflowing coming out of carbs. I thinking now that the extra smoke could be a result of magnets not in sync with rotor circuits up on top. Im not to sure if the optic sensor could cause this because I m thinking it either works or it does not work like a no start no run situation but my motor will start but idles poorly misses and spits out the back then shuts off sometimes even before you get a chance to put it in gear.

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          • #6
            Re: Johnson 150 Ocean runner problem

            JonesG I made sure that all spaghetti like gaskets replaced on throttle body and carbs are seating properly. I did spray a fair amount of wd40 oil all around the carb gasket area and noticed no change. I did however ground all spark plug leads while testing for spark and alternating the plug from 1 thru 6. I used a spark plug and noticed a nice blue arc when cranking the engine. All carb plates are closed at idle and no alarms prior but did a alarm test on all circuits and get a light on dash and a horn + light when engine running. I did not check the recirculation system check valves while I had it opened (like a dummy) but would a block valve cause so much problems? I mean there are maybe more than 6 im thinking??? But im suspecting ignition. I need to get my hands on a sync/link tool and a PR meter or adapter for my fluke.

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            • #7
              Re: Johnson 150 Ocean runner problem

              A sparkplug cannot be used to conduct the spark test.
              Auto stores sell adjustable gap spark testers for under $15, set the gap to 7/16th inch.
              I think you'll find no spark.


              sigpic
              See FAQ Files.
              http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=299680

              Get the genuine factory service manual.
              www.outboardbooks.com
              www.*****************

              Comment



              • #8
                Re: Johnson 150 Ocean runner problem

                I will get one of these and retest. I did not know you can't use a spark plug for arc test. I thought that since Im seeing each and every spark plug wire read on the timing wheel (tdc,2,3,4,5&6)via strobe light that spark would be good. This is why I did not pursue the tool.

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                • #9
                  Re: Johnson 150 Ocean runner problem

                  How about checking the primer? Maybe it is stuck open, and choking the engine?

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                  • #10
                    Re: Johnson 150 Ocean runner problem

                    Ok I got back from vacation and got to work on the outboard. I picked up a spark gap tester and set it to 7/16. On the odd cylinders nice blue thick arc. On the even cylinders Nada. But if I adjust the gap to to what the spark plugs are gapped at .030 it produces a weak spark (arc)on the tester. So I stumbled on to the problem. Weak Ignition on the even numbered cylinders. I already replaced the power pack 2 weeks ago and it did not make a difference.

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                    • #11
                      Re: Johnson 150 Ocean runner problem

                      let me know what you find, my engine did the same thing or similar and I need to troubleshoot a bit more...

                      Thanks

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                      • #12
                        Re: Johnson 150 Ocean runner problem

                        Right now im trying to find where the shift switch single wire black/yellow harness is located. I did not see it by the motor so will post back when I check on the boat harness side and test it. I need to test this before I tear into the flywheel.

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                        • #13
                          Re: Johnson 150 Ocean runner problem

                          Here is what I have found out so far. The shift switch is located on the starboard side at the engine right on top where the shift cables enter to the engine. I unplugged the 1 pin connector and metered it out by pushing down on the switch to activate it manually and I get an open and closed reading. So my switch is good but I constantly get a open reading when moving the boats shifter handle anywhere from full forward to full reverse. Probobly needs adjusting or something wore down. I go on to the second step of the test where its called Blocking Diode test. Now there I get a open reading on diode setting on meter or resistance setting on meter with both leads swapped from pin to pin. One meter lead on the blk/ylw(shift switch) 1 pin conn and the other lead to engine harness blk/ylw multi-pin conn at the motor. Anybody know where this blocking diode is located?

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                          • #14
                            Re: Johnson 150 Ocean runner problem

                            Well I have found the diode in the harness and it is good and so is the wiring as far as I can tell. Im going to try to get a adapter for my meter for the stator output test but if not I will take it apart and post back.

                            Comment



                            • #15
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                              Re: Johnson 150 Ocean runner problem

                              I did a stator/charge coil cranking test with the 6 pin packard connector disconnected from the power pack and the yellow leads connector to the regulator/rectifier also disconnected here is what I got reading wise using a Cat -III Digital fluke voltmeter without the PVA set on ac: with the negative lead of the meter attached to the engine ground and going on all 6 pins one by one I get a reading of 12 to 20 volts across all six pins when cranking engine over. Im thinking maybe the stator is shot? I believe the manual states their should be no voltage readings to ground but don't know 100% since im waiting on the PVA adapter to arrive.

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