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Wiseco Piston Break In Process

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  • Wiseco Piston Break In Process

    I'm currently breaking in my 1995 Evinrude 70hp ELEO after a complete rebuild. I installed wiseco forged pistons as part of the rebuild.

    My mechanic today told me that I need to follow a more extensive break in process for the Wiseco pistons than I would with the OEM pistons.

    Does anyone know what the proper break in procedure is? I have currently ran the engine at idle varying between 650 and 1200 rpm for 1.5 hours. VRO pump has been disabled and I am running 25:1, 91 octane ethanol free gasoline.

    Thanks for your help.
    sigpic

    1969 Slickcraft SS170v

    In the garage:
    1996 Evinrude 115hp Rebuild in progress
    1995 Evinrude 70hp
    1997 Evinrude 70hp
    1994 Evinrude 4hp


  • #2
    Re: Wiseco Piston Break In Process

    Call Wiseco and ask to talk to the Marine Manager. PLEASE let us know what they say. This should be good.....

    Comment



    • #3
      Re: Wiseco Piston Break In Process

      Originally posted by Dhadley View Post
      Call Wiseco and ask to talk to the Marine Manager. PLEASE let us know what they say. This should be good.....
      Well, there is no one available there right now, it's after 5:00pm pacific time now. I will call them again on Monday.

      I looked in the boxes that the pistons came in and there is an insert that states "refer to your service manual for break in procedure".

      I guess for the time being I will go with my mechanic's advice and what i've gathered from the net. That is to run a 4 - 8 hour idle/fast idle warm up process before following the OEM break in process for the next 10 hours.

      I also found on the net (unconfirmed) that forged pistons need up to 12 heat cycles before they will begin to seat. That's 12 times being brought to operating temperature at idle and run for 30 minutes.

      Anyone has any experience with Wiseco please chime in. I'm looking for all the info I can get.
      sigpic

      1969 Slickcraft SS170v

      In the garage:
      1996 Evinrude 115hp Rebuild in progress
      1995 Evinrude 70hp
      1997 Evinrude 70hp
      1994 Evinrude 4hp

      Comment



      • #4
        Re: Wiseco Piston Break In Process

        it might be a technicality, but I am sure you are seating the RINGS and not the piston.....

        good luck

        bob

        Comment



        • #5
          Re: Wiseco Piston Break In Process

          Originally posted by bob johnson View Post
          it might be a technicality, but I am sure you are seating the RINGS and not the piston.....

          good luck

          bob
          Second that.
          sigpicSignature- If you have fuel and spark- Have you checked compression?

          Comment



          • #6
            Re: Wiseco Piston Break In Process

            Originally posted by bktheking View Post
            Second that.

            Not necessarily true, Wiesco pistons have a much different cam cut on their piston skirts compared to an OEM piston and some have anti-friction skirt coatings... The cam cut is usually much narrower than stock with less skirt to wall contact to reduce friction in the engine and these pistons are usually ran with a tighter piston to wall clearance compared to an OEM piston... Also being forged they have a much different expansion rate compared to an OEM cast piston... Since the contact area is smaller it carries more load (and thus the need for the skirt coatings in some applications) and carries a greater risk of sticking or galling a piston when the engine is cold...

            Without getting over complicated, during break in, the engine should be ran double oiled (just like it's done during OEM break in) and it is imperative the engine is brought up to operating temperature before attempting to plane out, heavy load, etc. My personal experience is also to not let a new engine with forged pistons to idle for a long period of time during break in, I always liked to vary the engine rpm 200 to 300 rpm during the first 1/2 hour of operation...

            Over 10 years I built over 500 high performance engines, of the ones I also tore down for freshing, the engines that received the most care during break in had the best looking piston skirts (among the other high load components)...

            I am sure Dhadley has had much for experience with forged pistons in outboards than I have. Most of my experience with them has been with I/O's but I have done my fair share of two strokes..


            JMHO...



            My $.02....
            1973 Glasply 21' Camper Cutty --- AKA Mean Green

            Originally Mercuiser 888
            Rebuilt FWC SBF
            SEI 106 Upper and Lower

            Comment



            • #7
              Re: Wiseco Piston Break In Process

              PDF on their site makes no mention of special break in procedures other than "refer to your service manual". A phone call would clear up any doubt.
              sigpicSignature- If you have fuel and spark- Have you checked compression?

              Comment



              • #8
                Re: Wiseco Piston Break In Process

                I would think the break-in would be the same for forged or cast pistons, however, the boring tolerance is different due to different expansion characteristics.

                OK - What the heck is cam cut?

                Comment



                • #9
                  Re: Wiseco Piston Break In Process

                  Originally posted by Chris1956 View Post
                  I would think the break-in would be the same for forged or cast pistons, however, the boring tolerance is different due to different expansion characteristics.

                  OK - What the heck is cam cut?
                  Cam cut refers to the machined shape of the piston skirt. In high performance pistons the cam cut is manipulated to control piston rock at the top and bottom stroke (referred to as piston dwell) and is often reduced to decrease friction....

                  Break in can vary depending on skirt coating, cam cut, cylinder liner coatings (Nikasil, Chrome, etc) as well as piston ring material (Cast, Coated, Stainless, etc)...

                  If it were me, I would be kinda pissed at the original posters "mechanic" that started this whole can of proverbial worms as they spec'd the Wiesco pistons so they should know what should be done to break in this engine without causing unnecessary damage...

                  I have heard time and time again from people who have rebuilt engines with good forged pistons state "boy are those forged pistons noisy until they warm up". Inevitably these engines are short lived as the "noisy pistons" have excessive clearance from improper machining and are basically beating themselves to death until the pistons grow enough to take up the excessive clearance a well meaning machinist "put in" the engine.

                  I agree a call should be given to both the "mechanic" to get the clearances they set up this engine with as well as Wiesco on any special recommendations and to verify if this engine was machined properly for these particular pistons... They may simply be forged replacements for OEM pistons that require nothing special, or they might be "the piston of the month" wazoo units... That I don't know...

                  It's really easy to trash a set of high end pistons if things are not done properly including machining, assembly and break in...

                  Here's hoping for an easy solution for the original poster...

                  JMHO...
                  1973 Glasply 21' Camper Cutty --- AKA Mean Green

                  Originally Mercuiser 888
                  Rebuilt FWC SBF
                  SEI 106 Upper and Lower

                  Comment



                  • #10
                    Re: Wiseco Piston Break In Process

                    Originally posted by billy4hp View Post
                    Cam cut refers to the machined shape of the piston skirt. In high performance pistons the cam cut is manipulated to control piston rock at the top and bottom stroke (referred to as piston dwell) and is often reduced to decrease friction....

                    Break in can vary depending on skirt coating, cam cut, cylinder liner coatings (Nikasil, Chrome, etc) as well as piston ring material (Cast, Coated, Stainless, etc)...

                    If it were me, I would be kinda pissed at the original posters "mechanic" that started this whole can of proverbial worms as they spec'd the Wiesco pistons so they should know what should be done to break in this engine without causing unnecessary damage...

                    I have heard time and time again from people who have rebuilt engines with good forged pistons state "boy are those forged pistons noisy until they warm up". Inevitably these engines are short lived as the "noisy pistons" have excessive clearance from improper machining and are basically beating themselves to death until the pistons grow enough to take up the excessive clearance a well meaning machinist "put in" the engine.

                    I agree a call should be given to both the "mechanic" to get the clearances they set up this engine with as well as Wiesco on any special recommendations and to verify if this engine was machined properly for these particular pistons... They may simply be forged replacements for OEM pistons that require nothing special, or they might be "the piston of the month" wazoo units... That I don't know...

                    It's really easy to trash a set of high end pistons if things are not done properly including machining, assembly and break in...

                    Here's hoping for an easy solution for the original poster...

                    JMHO...
                    Thanks for all the info guys.

                    Some background on this: I brought the block into a machine shop, not my mechanic, where they bored each cylinder to match the pistons. The pistons and rings came from the machine shop also. They are 3100 series, forged marine pistons (1 is 3172P3, 2 are 3172P4).

                    The bore clearance is .0005 on each cylinder.

                    After I had built the motor I was in my mechanics shop pickup up some engine mounting hardware and I asked him about the break in process. He said that with forged pistons you need to follow a more extensive break in process and that I should find out from the machine shop or online. By this time everyone was closed for the weekend so I was hoping to find out from some of the experts on here.

                    So..You mentiond that you don't like to idle forged pistons during the break in process..do you recomend I continue on with the OEM break in steps in my service manual? With the only exception being that I allow the engine to warm up longer before going above 1000rpm?

                    Thanks again guys.
                    sigpic

                    1969 Slickcraft SS170v

                    In the garage:
                    1996 Evinrude 115hp Rebuild in progress
                    1995 Evinrude 70hp
                    1997 Evinrude 70hp
                    1994 Evinrude 4hp

                    Comment



                    • #11
                      Re: Wiseco Piston Break In Process

                      Unfortunately, in your situation of having to break in the engine without the aid of a dyno, it's going to have to idle sometime. I just wouldn't let it sit their and idle for a long period (like fire it up and let it idle for 10 or 20 minutes with no load).

                      If you are forced into a situation where it has to sit and idle for any length of time. I would vary the engine RPM manually w/ the throttle control a couple 100 rpm up and down.

                      The varying of the engine RPM aids in break in by changing the load every so slightly on the piston skirts, rings, bearings, etc.

                      JMHO, good luck with your project...
                      1973 Glasply 21' Camper Cutty --- AKA Mean Green

                      Originally Mercuiser 888
                      Rebuilt FWC SBF
                      SEI 106 Upper and Lower

                      Comment



                      • #12
                        Re: Wiseco Piston Break In Process

                        Call them again an Monday and let us know what the Marine Manager says. Ask to speak directly to him. If he's not available get his extension number.

                        Comment



                        • #13
                          Re: Wiseco Piston Break In Process

                          Ask for Marie LaVoe. She managed a company down in, or around the south swamp country. Later went to Wiseco. Funny idea's about break in. Just don't argue, and wear the dead chicken around the neck as instructed.

                          Comment



                          • #14
                            Re: Wiseco Piston Break In Process

                            Originally posted by billy4hp View Post
                            Unfortunately, in your situation of having to break in the engine without the aid of a dyno, it's going to have to idle sometime. I just wouldn't let it sit their and idle for a long period (like fire it up and let it idle for 10 or 20 minutes with no load).

                            If you are forced into a situation where it has to sit and idle for any length of time. I would vary the engine RPM manually w/ the throttle control a couple 100 rpm up and down.

                            The varying of the engine RPM aids in break in by changing the load every so slightly on the piston skirts, rings, bearings, etc.

                            JMHO, good luck with your project...
                            Hey billy4hp, thanks for your reply.

                            I just got back from about 3 hours runtime on the river. Basically what I am doing is the OEM break in process times 3. i.e. oem says first hour do not operate over 3500 RPM and vary the throttle. I did that for the first 3 hours.

                            After about 2.5 hours on the water today (4 hours into the break in period) I brought it up to full throttle and planed the boat then pulled back to 3500rpm. I did this 4 times and checked the water temp from the tell tale each time. Water was warm but not hot.

                            I think I will continue along this path for now and I will talk to Wiseco on Monday.

                            Cheers.
                            sigpic

                            1969 Slickcraft SS170v

                            In the garage:
                            1996 Evinrude 115hp Rebuild in progress
                            1995 Evinrude 70hp
                            1997 Evinrude 70hp
                            1994 Evinrude 4hp

                            Comment



                            • #15
                              Re: Wiseco Piston Break In Process

                              Originally posted by trendsetter240 View Post
                              Hey billy4hp, thanks for your reply.

                              I just got back from about 3 hours runtime on the river. Basically what I am doing is the OEM break in process times 3. i.e. oem says first hour do not operate over 3500 RPM and vary the throttle. I did that for the first 3 hours.

                              After about 2.5 hours on the water today (4 hours into the break in period) I brought it up to full throttle and planed the boat then pulled back to 3500rpm. I did this 4 times and checked the water temp from the tell tale each time. Water was warm but not hot.

                              I think I will continue along this path for now and I will talk to Wiseco on Monday.

                              Cheers.
                              Trendsetter 240,

                              Sounds like you have things under control... Enjoy your newley rebuilt outboard....

                              Billy
                              1973 Glasply 21' Camper Cutty --- AKA Mean Green

                              Originally Mercuiser 888
                              Rebuilt FWC SBF
                              SEI 106 Upper and Lower

                              Comment

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