20 hp 1985 Evinrude - stuck lower unit

[DJons]

This applies to a 20 hp 85 Evinrude, model number CE20CRCOS

The lower unit on the engine will not drop. I have proceeded according to the Seloc guide, first disconnecting the shift rod connector behind the inlet screens and then removing two bolts on either side and the nut at the front of the lower unit. There was no visible corrosion on any and they all came off normally (the motor is generally in good shape from that perspective).
The problem is it remains tight at the front. It will wiggle from the back and I can get a crack of about 1/8 of an inch at the back, but not budging at the front. I have been using penetrating oil and pressure, but no luck.

Is there anything else that needs to be undone? Any other suggestions? Can I wedge between the housings?

The objective is to work on the water pump as the engine overheated.

 

[Cofe]

Re: 20 hp 1985 Evinrude - stuck lower unit

Try leaving one bolt on each side loose, just hanging by a few threads. Then put the nut on the front on loosely. Use a pry-bar and wood blocks against the nut. And pry gently. Hope this helps.

 

[DJons]

Re: 20 hp 1985 Evinrude - stuck lower unit

I have tried recommendation of prying down on front stud. Every which way but loose. No success. I continue to put penetrating oil on it, wiggle and pry.

When I wiggle the lower unit the stud doesn't move, implying it is frozen.

I have read that one can use heat, but all I have is a heat gun for removing paint. Any comments on that?

Anything other than penetrating oil that might bread the stud loose?

 

[Daviet]

Re: 20 hp 1985 Evinrude - stuck lower unit

You are going to need something hotter than a heat gun. Maybe try and borrow a propane torch and try it.

 

[Cofe]

Re: 20 hp 1985 Evinrude - stuck lower unit

PB Blaster and heat cant be beat.

Apology for the rhyme....

There should be a steel bushing where the stud passes through.

 

[Elbo]

Re: 20 hp 1985 Evinrude - stuck lower unit

Did you take the bolt on the bottom all the way out? I have found some that had a nut on the top one.That bolt on the bottom goes thru a notch.If its out leave the top one and give a good yank on the foot.It should come loose.The connector is split and has been compressed.If you can roll the connector around you will see the split in it.You mite have to spread it a little with a screwdriver.But usely a good yank will take it out.

 

[Elbo]

Re: 20 hp 1985 Evinrude - stuck lower unit

I Was assuming you are talking about the plate about the middle of the lower unit.Oval shape with two screws in it.

 

[jonesg]

Re: 20 hp 1985 Evinrude - stuck lower unit

This applies to a 20 hp 85 Evinrude, model number CE20CRCOS

The lower unit on the engine will not drop. I have proceeded according to the Seloc guide, first disconnecting the shift rod connector behind the inlet screens and then removing two bolts on either side and the nut at the front of the lower unit. There was no visible corrosion on any and they all came off normally (the motor is generally in good shape from that perspective).
The problem is it remains tight at the front. It will wiggle from the back and I can get a crack of about 1/8 of an inch at the back, but not budging at the front. I have been using penetrating oil and pressure, but no luck.

Is there anything else that needs to be undone? Any other suggestions? Can I wedge between the housings?

The objective is to work on the water pump as the engine overheated.

Seloc is the source of your trouble, its misleading.
I just pulled the lower on a 1959 10 hp with no service manual, I threw my seloc away a while ago. I found it to be no help.

If you have a 2 peice shift rod then that is holding it, something is holding it that you haven't loosened yet.

The 2 peice shifter rod is connected by a pinch clamp but you have to remove the lower bolt completely, yours might be the same, clamp is in the middle of the leg behind a small plate.

 

[crxess]

Re: 20 hp 1985 Evinrude - stuck lower unit

Sorry guys, but a shift rod will Not hold the lower tight to the mid section.
All you would need to do is shift into gear(reverse I believe) to gain about 1" of drop.

Stuck lower-
Probable causes:
1)Mounting stud corrosion - as is suspected here
Do You see any white power in the opening at the nut?
2)Stuck down shaft - often the cause
3)Stuck water tube - rare but possible

Home Depot/Lowes, etc. - Pick up a MAPP Gas torch and nozzle(Like propane but hotter) for $10-$15. This will heat the area well enough to work it. May need to heat a few times.
Heat - PB Blaster - Heat - Jiggle.......Repeat as needed

Also with nut/bolts loose and spark plugs out. Grab and shake the flywheel back and forth briskly to free a stuck shaft.

 

[DJons]

Re: 20 hp 1985 Evinrude - stuck lower unit

The shift rod connector has been disconnected. The connection is behind the intake screens. The disconnect is complete and visible. Other than that there are four bolts that have been completely removed and a nut on the stud at the front.

There wasn't any significant white powder below the nut on the front stud. But when I wiggle the lower unit the stud doesn't budge, leading me to believe that is the issue. I would think if the stud were free it would wiggle a bit. The back of the unit moves easily, it is only the very front that is stuck fast.

When you say heat, do you heat the housing around the stud or the stud itself? I presume heating the housing is the right way but will cause the paint to come off. I worry about damaging the housing.

 

[Cofe]

Re: 20 hp 1985 Evinrude - stuck lower unit

The shift linkage behind the water intake screens separates by two brass nuts. Then slide the top half up the shift rod to reveal the plastic keeper. The plastic keeper has a slot in it that you separate with a small screw driver, and remove.
Then shift it into forward position and remove the upper nut. (This is just in case your manual didn't tell you right.)

If you heat the stud up good and hot, then spray PB where it goes through and work it, It should come loose. Repeat as prescribed. ......Let cool down too so the stud (shrinks) could help too.

 

[DJons]

Re: 20 hp 1985 Evinrude - stuck lower unit

For anyone interested, here is the conclusion. I bought some PB Blaster and used a propane torch. I sprayed, heated, wiggled, twisted, and lost several inches of previously attached skin. I then got a long piece of oak and put one end close to the stud on the cavitation plate and with increasing aggression applied a hammer to the other, adding one more method into the iterative process. Not sure which was the secret sauce, or if it all helped but the lower unit finally came off.

Not sure what was holding it but there was some corrosion on the steel bushing. The reason for the exercise was I'd over heated the engine. The overheating has caused internal damage so it might have come from there.

 

[Jackwagon]

I know this is an old post but I am having this very same issue DJons. Was it the shift linkage? I haven't found how to disconnect it. Where is it and did you dent the Cav plate with the oak stick? What did you find from the over heating. This is blowing my mind.

 

[GA_Boater]

I know this is an old post but I am having this very same issue DJons. Was it the shift linkage? I haven't found how to disconnect it. Where is it and did you dent the Cav plate with the oak stick? What did you find from the over heating. This is blowing my mind.

Old is right. DJons has not visited since mid-2010, so he won't be giving you the magic answer. Please look at the Help Tip and start a new topic so members who normally don't look in the basement will see your plea for help.

Closed.