Home Cookin'
Fleet Admiral
- Joined
- May 26, 2009
- Messages
- 9,715
Summary: replaced the solonoid to resolve starting issues but the fuse holder is hot to the touch.
I recently bought a 1987 Johnson 70. During its first weekend out it blew the little 20 amp fuse in the starter line once; RR and ran fine the rest of the weekend.
I put it in Sunday; ran great and i shut it off; went to restart and nothing. Fuse blown again. Time to trouble shoot. So I started it, ran back to my pier, shut off and no restart. But this time I checked the fuse and it was still good.
When I returned to work on it about an hour later, started fine, but wouldn't restart. "hot engine syndrome."
One problem was that the battery connections took some tightening; about 1 turn with pliers. I checked the wires from the block to the solonoid through the fuse holder for frayed areas; nothing and the wires are wrapped in tape.
Got it running and noticed the fuse holder and wire got hot. Shut down and no restart. Fuse good.
I found that I was getting power through the fuse holder and to the solonoid but not out the other side. I used jumper cables to go from positive on the battery to the top of the soloniod and that cranked it. So I replaced the solonoid and it started and ran fine, restarted fine. But I didn't run it very long, just at the dock.
But I noticed that the fuse holder and wires got hot again.
The questions: is the hot wire/fuse holder a concern?
when the key is on, but not on start, should I have power going through the line where the fuse is, or should it only get power on "start"? In other words is constant power to the solonoid OK?
Is it odd that it would blow a fuse occasionally, and mimic a blown fuse?
I'll take it out for a while today and see what happens when I get back--but I'm not shutting it down unless I'm at home!
My previous 1988 70 probably blew that fuse no more than twice in 20 years.
Thanks, all.
I recently bought a 1987 Johnson 70. During its first weekend out it blew the little 20 amp fuse in the starter line once; RR and ran fine the rest of the weekend.
I put it in Sunday; ran great and i shut it off; went to restart and nothing. Fuse blown again. Time to trouble shoot. So I started it, ran back to my pier, shut off and no restart. But this time I checked the fuse and it was still good.
When I returned to work on it about an hour later, started fine, but wouldn't restart. "hot engine syndrome."
One problem was that the battery connections took some tightening; about 1 turn with pliers. I checked the wires from the block to the solonoid through the fuse holder for frayed areas; nothing and the wires are wrapped in tape.
Got it running and noticed the fuse holder and wire got hot. Shut down and no restart. Fuse good.
I found that I was getting power through the fuse holder and to the solonoid but not out the other side. I used jumper cables to go from positive on the battery to the top of the soloniod and that cranked it. So I replaced the solonoid and it started and ran fine, restarted fine. But I didn't run it very long, just at the dock.
But I noticed that the fuse holder and wires got hot again.
The questions: is the hot wire/fuse holder a concern?
when the key is on, but not on start, should I have power going through the line where the fuse is, or should it only get power on "start"? In other words is constant power to the solonoid OK?
Is it odd that it would blow a fuse occasionally, and mimic a blown fuse?
I'll take it out for a while today and see what happens when I get back--but I'm not shutting it down unless I'm at home!
My previous 1988 70 probably blew that fuse no more than twice in 20 years.
Thanks, all.