starter fuse issues--feels hot--1987 70

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Summary: replaced the solonoid to resolve starting issues but the fuse holder is hot to the touch.

I recently bought a 1987 Johnson 70. During its first weekend out it blew the little 20 amp fuse in the starter line once; RR and ran fine the rest of the weekend.

I put it in Sunday; ran great and i shut it off; went to restart and nothing. Fuse blown again. Time to trouble shoot. So I started it, ran back to my pier, shut off and no restart. But this time I checked the fuse and it was still good.
When I returned to work on it about an hour later, started fine, but wouldn't restart. "hot engine syndrome."

One problem was that the battery connections took some tightening; about 1 turn with pliers. I checked the wires from the block to the solonoid through the fuse holder for frayed areas; nothing and the wires are wrapped in tape.

Got it running and noticed the fuse holder and wire got hot. Shut down and no restart. Fuse good.

I found that I was getting power through the fuse holder and to the solonoid but not out the other side. I used jumper cables to go from positive on the battery to the top of the soloniod and that cranked it. So I replaced the solonoid and it started and ran fine, restarted fine. But I didn't run it very long, just at the dock.

But I noticed that the fuse holder and wires got hot again.

The questions: is the hot wire/fuse holder a concern?

when the key is on, but not on start, should I have power going through the line where the fuse is, or should it only get power on "start"? In other words is constant power to the solonoid OK?

Is it odd that it would blow a fuse occasionally, and mimic a blown fuse?

I'll take it out for a while today and see what happens when I get back--but I'm not shutting it down unless I'm at home!

My previous 1988 70 probably blew that fuse no more than twice in 20 years.

Thanks, all.
 

crxess

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Re: starter fuse issues--feels hot--1987 70

Solenoid is constant power on one side. Small wire closes solenoid to feed starter.
No current draw on wire to solenoid when not engaged. If wire is hot when not in use, WHAT ELSE have you got attached on the Hot(in) side of the Solenoid? Radio/depthfinder/etc.?

Ckeck/clean Ground wire at Battery and Motor connections. Same with Power wire. Should be shiny clean for best conductivity.
 

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Re: starter fuse issues--feels hot--1987 70

nothing else AFAIK. Now I will show my lack of knowledge.
The bottom bolt (large) had the power supply from the battery and one other large cable. The top large bolt had the power out to the starter.
On the two small bolts: a yellow wire to the top. On the bottom, a ground to the block, and the fused line .

But if I understand what you are saying, when the key is "on" but not on "start" I shouldn't have power running through the fused line from the block over to the solonoid? If that line is not supposed to have constant power, that would explain (to my simple mind) why it's hot.
 

crxess

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Re: starter fuse issues--feels hot--1987 70

Ok I see now you are working on things sideways.(mounted sideways)
The Large Lugs-
Hot in from battery(Always hot)
Out to Starter - Hot when starting.

Small Lugs-
1(S terminal)-From Key - Hot in Start Position Only - Closes Solenoid
2 (I Terminal) This is normally only for an ignition with a Ballast resistor on the coil. Feeds coil during start.

You need to identify where the Fused wire is going to sort this out. If it is feeding the coil then either the Ballast resister is failing or the coil is failing.

The (I Terminal) should read open without the wire attached and key in off or run position. It is a feed when starting. The wire itself can show voltage with key on since it is attached to the coil + side with the keyed wire.
 

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Re: starter fuse issues--feels hot--1987 70

thanks--we may have moved beyond my pay grade. But the replaced solonoid seems to have fixed it--I ran it around a while today, returned to the dock and restarted 5 times no problem. Knock wood. I'll study those wires another day.
 

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Re: starter fuse issues--feels hot--1987 70

ok after several good restarts it blew the fuse twice today. Noticed that the trim tilt didn't work when the fuse was blown--is this normal?
I jumped the starter directly from the POS battery to the starter and it truned over, but we bumped the key and then couldn't get the starter to turn at all. Had to go; will work on it tomorrow. any ideas?

I'm not sure what you mean by a wire should "read open." I may be over my head but does this mean when I put a tester on it it should light up?
 

crxess

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Re: starter fuse issues--feels hot--1987 70

Can you post a clear picture of solenoid area? Is the fuse at/near the solenoid?

What else runs off the Key switch? does everything off the switch stop working or just the tilt/trim and starter?

On the two small bolts: a yellow wire to the top. On the bottom, a ground to the block, and the fused line .

This is the part that bothers me. You cannot have a power and a ground on the same terminal. This would be a dead short and yes the fuse would blow. actually it should blow instantly and every time power is applied.
 

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Re: starter fuse issues--feels hot--1987 70

UPDATE-FIXED
Took it to as mechanic; he found that a ground bolt was corroded inside the hole so it wasn't apparent and was the source of all my woes. Cleaned it all out and (supposedly) good to go.
He also said it was normal to have a ground wire coming off the solonoid to the block from one of the small posts, and that's how it was, althoug it does seem odd.
Typical boats--the simple matters cause the complicated issues. I thought I had killed it.
Live and learn!
 

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Re: starter fuse issues--feels hot--1987 70

Bump--mechanic did not fix it; took it back. We found that on short runs (5 minutes or so) no problem but longer (10 minutes) would. Or maybe higher RPMs. Took it back to he same guy but he hasn't gotten to it yet. Boats.
 
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