Re: Johnson 1985 4hp Deluxe oil leak and water pump
If that is the model with a reverse gear you will have to look at the diagram of the 1986 models to see what it is like . They do not seem to cover the reversing gear boxes in the parts list for 1985 (Is it a Belgium made one for the European market by any chance )
Assuming it is the reversing gear box it will be easy to drop it. Just three bolts to undo and the shift rod pulls from the mechanism at the top with no disconnecting to do.
The drive shaft may be stuck in the crankshaft splines though! (Lightly grease when rebuilding)
If its a long shaft model remove the extension with the gear case , clean the drive shaft then remove the extension.
It is quite straightforward to remove the gearcase cover and change the seals. There's a gasket to renew as well.
The drive shaft is not retained in the gear case and will lift out IIRC (Might as well do the O ring on the shift rod as well while you are there)
The grommet at the top of the water tube can be troublesome so connect a hose to the water tube to be sure you can get a good flow of water through the power head. If the grommet is blocking the flow you have to remove the power-head to get to it!
BUT oil leaking from the joint between gearcase and the exhaust housing is probably only unburnt oil from the fuel. (nevertheless not a bad idea to replace the seals while you have the unit off)
Check your gearcase oil for signs of water ingress! (Milky looking = water)
If it is just the non reversing gear box I think the shift rod has to be disconnected at the top and I think that may require removal of the power head! On second thoughts I dont think its retained at the bottom so may pull out of the gear case
The seals won't be so easy to change unless you can hook them out of their housing once the pump is removed
Rebuilding is just a bit of a fiddle. Getting the shift rod into position, the water tube into the pump and the drive shaft into the crank shaft. (Turn the flywheel slowly to aid engagement of the splines)
Oil is outboard gear oil (with a viscosity of around SAE 85 or 90).
Change it every year at the end of the season or every 100 hours if sooner. Renew the washers on the fill and level plugs. Using a pump or squeezy bottle the new oil goes in the bottom hole until it flows from the top one. Reversing box holds about 325ml
The prop-shaft oil seals are the most likely to cause water ingress as they are easily damaged by fishing line. Still not difficult to change as they are in the bearing housing which simply unbolts and pulls off.
Service manual? whats that?