9.5hp Evinrude 72 vintage sportwin

luvngspnful

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There are small pieces of hard black rubber in water expelled from the cooling impeller water pump. How difficult is it to replace the impeller in these engines.. Or what level of mechanical experience does one need to complete it? Ive worked on small engines, never a rebuild though, and never boat engines.. clutches, brakes on car is more like my experience. Anyone weigh in with an opinion?:eek:
 

tashasdaddy

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Re: 9.5hp Evinrude 72 vintage sportwin

remove the 4 bolts that holds the lower unit. it will drop about 3/4 if an inch, in the space you will find the shilt rod connector. remove bottom bolt, unit will drop out. notice the notch in the shift rod, the bolt has to go back thru it when reassembling. the rest is easy. don't loose the pin that drive the impeller.
 

luvngspnful

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Re: 9.5hp Evinrude 72 vintage sportwin

Thanks, that sounds easy enough. I will try it. thanks Tashdaddy.. like you said.. GO Gators! :)
Dave
 

luvngspnful

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Re: 9.5hp Evinrude 72 vintage sportwin

It came apart just as you described. The unit and housing inside looks real clean, except three tines are broke off on the impeller.. (it had not run for 11 years, sitting in my brothers cow pasture). I used it two times last week watching the water real close.. ran very well after cleaning it up.. night before last I started it in the garage and noticed the water stop coming from the impeller, so I shut it off immediately. I had just started it on low idle. Any other ideas that I need to check out before I put in back together? I think I will install just the impeller kit. Thanks so much for your support. :p
Dave
 

luvngspnful

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Re: 9.5hp Evinrude 72 vintage sportwin

Thanks Rick for the link. I took the lower unit into the boat shop and they looked at it and sold me an impeller kit. I did ask about the water pump kit and they said I shouldn't need it but they could order one. My son lifted the unit up by the shaft only and it came totally out of the lower unit.. I hope that won't be a biggie.. It went back in very easily.. I did notice the color of the oil on the shaft at the shaft lower portion and it was a clear light tan color?? I thought it was supposed to be blue.. A manual will be a good thing to have for sure.
Thanks again
Dave
 

luvngspnful

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Re: 9.5hp Evinrude 72 vintage sportwin

Thanks Rick for the link. I took the lower unit into the boat shop and they looked at it and sold me an impeller kit. I did ask about the water pump kit and they said I shouldn't need it but they could order one. My son lifted the unit up by the shaft only and it came totally out of the lower unit.. I hope that won't be a biggie.. It went back in very easily.. I did notice the color of the oil on the shaft at the shaft lower portion and it was a clear light tan color?? I thought it was supposed to be blue.. A manual will be a good thing to have for sure.
Thanks again
Dave
 

ezeke

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Re: 9.5hp Evinrude 72 vintage sportwin

The driveshaft should pull out easily when the waterpump is removed.

Most high viscosity gear oil is clear amber colored. If it appears cloudy and cream like, it will have taken on water.

Check the screen above the propeller, that's your primary intake for cooling water and needs to be kept clean.
 

luvngspnful

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Re: 9.5hp Evinrude 72 vintage sportwin

Does anyone have a suggestion for the spark plug designations on this 1972 model 9222m 9.5 hr sportwin? I checked the champion plug site and it listed RJ8C and J8C at .030. Seems to be a really hot plug at that high a number. There are 2 J6CS's in there now..
 

Rick.

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Re: 9.5hp Evinrude 72 vintage sportwin

I'm using J4C @ .030 on my 73 -9.5. Book calls for J4J so someone on this forum must have given me the substitute. Rick.
 

ezeke

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Re: 9.5hp Evinrude 72 vintage sportwin

The correct spark plugs for all 9.5HP J/E motors are Champion J4C, gapped at .030.

J4C is the superseding part currently recommended for the 9.5, not a substitute.

You can read that at the BRP parts catalog site by navigating to your motor?s cylinder and crankcase diagram and checking the superseding part number for the plugs. The information is also found on the following link:

http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/BRP/SparkPlugChart2008.pdf
 

luvngspnful

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Re: 9.5hp Evinrude 72 vintage sportwin

I tested the unit and the impeller really puts out a lot of water so that's great, ..however when I bought the impeller kit I :mad:forgot to get the o ring seal for the top of the crank shaft. It was in my pocket and I forgot all about it. Now I am getting what I think is a little seepage of crankcase oil seeping out under that old o ring seal down the shaft into the water. its small whitish brown flecks of floating oil. I checked the lower end and the oil in the gear case is amber and clear, looks brand new so its not the lower end.. would that old seal cause that?
I also will change the power head oil.. IM not sure where the access port is to do that... "there is not a cap" Is it under that 3 cornered plate adjacent to the spark plugs? that's my guess.. how much oil should be put in this 9.5 outboard?
Thanks again for all your help,
dave
 

ezeke

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Re: 9.5hp Evinrude 72 vintage sportwin

Oil must be pre-mixed with the gasoline at a ratio of 50:1; 87 or 89 US Octane to TC-W3 oil; there is no oil pan.. This is the only source of lubrication for the engine, so don?t run the motor without it.

The three screw cover at the top of the cylinder head is the thermostat cover.
 

Nobody

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Re: 9.5hp Evinrude 72 vintage sportwin

edit: Info already provided in previous post.
 

luvngspnful

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Re: 9.5hp Evinrude 72 vintage sportwin

I have been mixing the gas with 2 cycle outboard oil at 50:1 from the start. Could be the small brownish flecks floating in the test tank water is exhaust from that mixture. It just has not been there before.. thanks, I thought there maybe some lubricant on the shaft splines above that o ring that is seeping out. I know there isnt an oil pan being a 2 cycle..
dave
 

Rick.

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Re: 9.5hp Evinrude 72 vintage sportwin

The O ring is there to prevent water form getting onto the shaft splines and rusting it to the power head. You can reuse the o ring if it is in reasonable condition. Grease the splines that go into the power head but be very careful not to grease the end of the shaft as it can cause the shaft to lock air between itself and the power head and no amount of force will get the shaft to go all the way home. Best of luck, Sounds like your ready (almost) to hit the water. Rick.
 
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