10 HP Johnson Seahorse Dilemma

[jernstberger]

Hi Everyone,

My name is Jon and I'm new to this forum as of a few days ago. I've been looking around to find a forum that I thought had knowledgeable members and that would be willing to help. So, thanks.

As stated in the topic, I have the 1950's 10 HP Johnson Seahorse

Can any of you verify or discredit that it was a 1957 model?

A few days ago, while attempting to pull start the motor, I broke the part

It is a small plastic piece to which are attached two metal wires. I can adhere the fractured pieces together and I know where that piece goes. It's clear that the metal knob at the top of the photo

is where that piece should go. The issue is that I have the piece

and have no idea where it goes or how it connects to the wires from the plastic piece. There is also a small c-shaped clip that I don't have pictured.

Could any of you tell me how to reassemble the pull start assembly so I can start this outboard? When I pull the starter cord out, the spring mechanism will recoil the starter rope. But, it's clear that I'm not making any contact with the crankshaft to start the engine.

Any help is completely appreciated. This is my first personally owned outboard and definitely my first antique. I'll probably be here quite a bit.

Jon

 

[Chinewalker]

Re: 10 HP Johnson Seahorse Dilemma

Hi Jon,
The nylon piece is readily available at a Johnrude dealer - similar was used on recoils up into the 1990s. The bent wire piece with the loops goes something like this, with the wire loop slid into the slot on the hub

- Scott

 

[F_R]

Re: 10 HP Johnson Seahorse Dilemma

It is a 1956. http://www.old-omc.de/j_1956/seite_06.jpg

The broken pawl is part number 203698 (18-6513), they are available right here at iboats. Just get a new one, you will never get it to hold with glue.

The "square" ends of the links go in that pawl, just as they are now. The hooked ends attach to the ends of the friction spring.

Then lay the friction spring in the groove in the spindle, pull on the pawl & links enough to slip the pawl over the stud on the pulley, then slip the E-ring retainer in the groove to hold the pawl on the stud. Put a dab of grease in the groove where the spring rides.

 

[jernstberger]

Re: 10 HP Johnson Seahorse Dilemma

All I have to say is wow. Thank you all so much. Your answers were truly impressive.

I read on one of the other threads that when I release the cap on the fuel tank, I should hear a slow hiss. I'm not hearing this. Further, what I'm seeing is that it looks like I have a slow gas leak around a seal at the top of the metal gas tank. Where can I find a replacement? Should I be worried about this?

Also, I didn't learn (until reading yet another thread in this forum) that I need to be running fuelil ratios of 30:1. Have I potentially damaged this outboard by running it somewhere between 50:1 and 30:1 (rich on the oil, but not rich enough)?

Thank you all again.

Jon

 

[jernstberger]

Re: 10 HP Johnson Seahorse Dilemma

It is a 1956. http://www.old-omc.de/j_1956/seite_06.jpg

The broken pawl is part number 203698 (18-6513), they are available right here at iboats. Just get a new one, you will never get it to hold with glue.

The "square" ends of the links go in that pawl, just as they are now. The hooked ends attach to the ends of the friction spring.

Then lay the friction spring in the groove in the spindle, pull on the pawl & links enough to slip the pawl over the stud on the pulley, then slip the E-ring retainer in the groove to hold the pawl on the stud. Put a dab of grease in the groove where the spring rides.

Another question. I noticed that the pawl part no. you list is for a '57. Would this make any difference since it was discussed that my outboard is a '56?

Thanks again,

Jon

 

[Sea18Horse]

Re: 10 HP Johnson Seahorse Dilemma

Another question. I noticed that the pawl part no. you list is for a '57. Would this make any difference since it was discussed that my outboard is a '56?

Thanks again,

Jon

No, they are the same.

BTW, I have one too.
Let's see if this works;

 

[jernstberger]

Re: 10 HP Johnson Seahorse Dilemma

No, they are the same.

BTW, I have one too.

Thank you! Yours looks good too! I'm so impressed that people are really working on these now.

 

[River Boy]

Re: 10 HP Johnson Seahorse Dilemma

Good looking old Johnsons. I like pics like this.

 

[jbjennings]

Re: 10 HP Johnson Seahorse Dilemma

The correct fuel/oil ratio is 24:1, which is what I run in my '56 10hp. I love it, it's a reliable motor too. F-R helped me get mine running right, too! You probably/hopefully didn't do too much damage if you didn't run it too long on 50:1, but I believe it has bushings around the piston wrist pin in the connecting rod which will wear if the oil ratio isn't rich enough and you don't want that! BTW, most people don't still work on these much...........because once you get them running right, you don't have to!
Liked the pics, looks like you have a really nice original! Enjoy it!
JBJ

 

[samo_ott]

Re: 10 HP Johnson Seahorse Dilemma

Those pawls were the same for decades... I just ordered and got 3 in last week for supply as they do break every so often as you see. Sometimes the end wears off also.

 

[wbeaton]

Re: 10 HP Johnson Seahorse Dilemma

I'll be testing a 1956 Johnson 10 hp later this morning.

If your fuel tank is leaking and not holding pressure it won't work. That motor doesn't have a fuel pump. Instead, it pumps air into the tank, which pressurizes the tank and forces fuel out the pickup tube and into the carburetor.

Replacement seal kits are available for about $30-40 I think. I don't have the part number. Just do a search for a "pressure tank seal kit".

 

[jernstberger]

Re: 10 HP Johnson Seahorse Dilemma

The correct fuel/oil ratio is 24:1, which is what I run in my '56 10hp. I love it, it's a reliable motor too. F-R helped me get mine running right, too! You probably/hopefully didn't do too much damage if you didn't run it too long on 50:1, but I believe it has bushings around the piston wrist pin in the connecting rod which will wear if the oil ratio isn't rich enough and you don't want that!

I've definitely ran no more than one tank of gas through at 50:1. My hopes are that this is not long enough to really have caused any damages.


edit: poor grammar