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OMC 115 Turbojet/Seaswirl Squirt

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  • OMC 115 Turbojet/Seaswirl Squirt

    I have a 1997 Seaswirl Squirt with an OMC 115 Turbojet. I got it started after 3 years and noticed (before it could overheat) that no cooling water was exiting. I pulled the engine back out but have no clue on what to do next. Do I find a way to pressurize the manifold and block cooling paths seperately? What do I try to flush the blockage with? just before shutdown the backed up water blew a rubber hose off and oily blackish water went everywhere. Does this help me determine where the blockage is? A piece got broken off of the manifold while removing the engine. It is a flat structural section about the size of a fifty cent piece. Not any section that has water flowing through it. Will welding this back on be sufficient? Will the welding heat colapse any of the water pathways? Would JB Weld be a better alternative? Is it adviseable to heat the bolts holding the manifold to the block to ease in their removal?
    Obviously I'm in over my head here but unless this is something I can repair myself the boat is no longer good for me. This economy dictates that I can in no forseeable future afford to buy a new manifold. I'm already trying to figure out how I can replace the steering cable in the least expensive way. I'm told that since it is bad and no longer made I will have to replace the rack along with the cable at a price of over $300. HELP!
    Robert
    Robert in Richmond, VA
    Disabled American vet too poor to be a boat owner but I have one anyway


  • #2
    Re: OMC 115 Turbojet/Seaswirl Squirt

    Need a picture of the piece from the manifold(intake or exhaust)?? Most 115 turbojet blocks had the bubble back exhaust which does fill with water or should. Blockages tend to occur in the head covers or at the thermostats.

    Comment



    • #3
      Re: OMC 115 Turbojet/Seaswirl Squirt

      I will take a picture and post it tomorrow. Not sure but I thought both manifolds are all one piece which includes the adapter plate making it 3 things in one. Excuse my lack of knowing what I'm looking at please.
      Robert
      Robert in Richmond, VA
      Disabled American vet too poor to be a boat owner but I have one anyway

      Comment



      • #4
        Re: OMC 115 Turbojet/Seaswirl Squirt

        Here are 2 pictures. One is of the hole in the manifold. The other is of the exhaust tubes (for identification of type)although everything is disconnected and the engine is sitting on a cart. If you are able to talk me through this in an affordable way I think I will rename her "SKEETR"!
        Thanks a billion!
        Robert
        Robert in Richmond, VA
        Disabled American vet too poor to be a boat owner but I have one anyway

        Comment



        • #5
          Re: OMC 115 Turbojet/Seaswirl Squirt

          I can blow through the water intake hose into the muffler and air comes out of the U shaped hose that if connected would send the water and exhaust into the jet pump. If I cover that hose with my hand I can no longer blow air through. It should (in my mind) then start passing the air through the top aft fitting on the muffler that would be connected to a through hull fitting that just pours back into the lake (or whatever body of water) you are on. I have looked and looked but cannot find a diagram of the exhaust/cooling water paths so I have no idea what this tells me. Any suggestions?
          Robert in Richmond, VA
          Disabled American vet too poor to be a boat owner but I have one anyway

          Comment



          • #6
            Re: OMC 115 Turbojet/Seaswirl Squirt

            The picture of the broken part appears to be your adaptor. I agree manifold is a much better word for that funky contraption but your engine exhaust manifold is on the rear of the engine block. I would have it welded as I would hate to think of what would happen if a jbweld job let loose at wot. To weld it you will need to remove it from the adaptor plate. The adaptor is one of the most in demand replacement parts on these boats as they hold water and freeze in the winter if not drained. A replacement would be $$ but turbojetmarine.com would have them if anyone would.
            The only exhaust tube on a turbojet is the large 'u' shaped one. The rest of the tubing is for distributing water for coolant. I have a diagram of the coolant paths. The upper front hose fitting dumps directly into the exaust and out so we have not isolated anything. The muffler is chambered and is filled with water via the lower front hose fitting. Blowing through that one should cause a release through the small starboard vent.

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            • #7
              Re: OMC 115 Turbojet/Seaswirl Squirt

              Where is the hose that blew located? Kinda hard to tell on the pic.

              Comment



              • #8
                Re: OMC 115 Turbojet/Seaswirl Squirt

                Hi Skeetr,
                I blow through the front lower intake fitting and feel pressure only at the U shaped tube as it comes off of the manifold. I cover that and can no longer blow. The aft upper tube emits nothing. The exhaust tube that blew was the U shaped tube. It blew off of the manifold and I realize I only had one clamp on there. Not sure if because I left it in a weakened state by only using one clamp if I saved further damage or messed things up worse. I have some help coming tomorrow to help me get the engine sitting on a mattress upside down so I can better get to the adaptor plate/manifold thing. At that point I can take the adaptor plate off and teach myself to weld.
                Let me show some more of my ignorance. What is "wot"? I was an aircraft mechanic for 13 years before becoming disabled and all I can think of is "wow" (weight on wheels).
                Thanks and let me know if I'm not explaining something correctly and/or if I need to provide pictures to help clarify my poor explanations and misuse of correct nomenclature.
                Robert
                Robert in Richmond, VA
                Disabled American vet too poor to be a boat owner but I have one anyway

                Comment



                • #9
                  Re: OMC 115 Turbojet/Seaswirl Squirt

                  Wide Open Throttle: WOT
                  Ok so the exhaust hose blew gotcha. Yea that would be some brackish stuff. Two clamps are a must. Is the hose still intact or is one on your parts list?
                  You might try running some wire tru the hose fittings if they are still on the muffler. When the adaptor is off you will be able to easily clean and verify that several of these fittings are open. You do not have to remove the adaptor plate unless the gasket is questionable.

                  Did your engine overheat?

                  Wait....teach yourself to weld???? The adaptor is made of cast aluminum which melts very easily. You would probably end up melting a bunch of holes in the adaptor. It would be a better idea to price a few welding shops for the job, unless you happen to have a tig welder laying around.

                  As far as the steering cable I am sure there are some available somewhere. Try a post in the 'boat topics(not engine)' section. Even in this forum I bet someone would be of help if your question was specific.

                  Comment



                  • #10
                    Re: OMC 115 Turbojet/Seaswirl Squirt

                    That's a fairly simple job for a good welder, and not a good place to start learning. The part lists through BRP for around $1500. so you will find $50. +/- to a responsible welder is a bargain. [part # 0437535]

                    All of the branded cables have identifying numbers stamped somewhere within a couple of feet of their ends. Once you give the numbers, it will be fairly easy for someone to look up a replacement at a more reasonable price.

                    Comment



                    • #11
                      Re: OMC 115 Turbojet/Seaswirl Squirt

                      Thanks guys. I was joking about teaching myself to weld in this case although I do want to learn. I really will take this and have it welded by someone who knows what they are doing.
                      The hose is still 100% intact. Not even in questionable condition. I do have to remove the adaptor plate but only to have it welded back together. A local parts place has 2 of the gaskets in stock so I'm safe there. Not sure if they have the exhaust manifold gasket or not though.
                      The engine did overheat a few years ago after a hard grounding. It ran fine several times after that and all I did was flush it. I have never checked cylinder head temps nor compressions of the cylinders nor have I ever pulled the thermostats. I suspect (from the maintenance I have noticed done by the previous owner) that the thermostats were probably simply removed and never replaced. This leads me to another question.
                      The two tubes that come off of the top of the engine at the cylinder heads and "T" together then go to the muffler. What are they? Cooling water path outlets from the block? Believe it or not I have the engine manual. I just can't seem to find any information I need in it. I promise I'm not a dummy nor am I trying to get anyone to do all of the leg work for me. I just can't seem to grasp it.
                      I most sincerely appreciate all of the help and patience.
                      Robert in Richmond, VA
                      Disabled American vet too poor to be a boat owner but I have one anyway

                      Comment



                      • #12
                        Re: OMC 115 Turbojet/Seaswirl Squirt

                        The hoses on top of the head allow some coolant to flow thru the heads when thermostats are closed.
                        If it were my boat and since the engine is already out and had previously overheated, I'd pull both heads. Verify that there is no debris inside block and that water deflectors are in good shape. Remove the head covers and check for debris inside heads.
                        Remove thermostat housing, clean and install new thermostats. Some folk think it is ok to run without them, I do not.
                        Slplit the jet drive( 4 bolts just rear of the clamps) and inspect pressure ball behind dime size slotted screw at 12oclock. Run a wire thru intake hole and down into impeller area to verify no blockage there. Also check trailing edges of impeller for damage.
                        Check all those 90 degree hose fittings for blockages. Water comes in from the fitting on top of the housing and exits through the two on the sides.
                        Besides your time and the cost of several gaskets your cooling system should be clear by doing the above.

                        Comment



                        • #13
                          Re: OMC 115 Turbojet/Seaswirl Squirt

                          If you do not have a well maintained sand filter in the incoming water line, you should. It will keep the particles that cause the engine problems from happening in the first place.

                          Incidentally, you can buy a complete rebuild kit for the thermostats: Sierra Part # 18-3673:

                          http://www.iboats.com/mall/partfinde...****=704863099

                          Comment



                          • #14
                            Re: OMC 115 Turbojet/Seaswirl Squirt

                            Good afternoon. The sand filter is on and I always kept it clean but to me it doesn't seem like an impressive filter system. I do however alays use and maintain it. It should at least keep the big stuff out.
                            I know pulling the heads is a good idea for inspection purposes but I keep remembering that the head gasket on my last boat (with a Merc Sportjet 90) was $96. Not a huge amount to most folks but to me it is 2 weeks of groceries. I guess I must though to verify the cooling passages are clear. I have a friend with a torque wrench so I can verify torques on the heads
                            Thanks for the link to the rebuild kit for the thermostats. I think I will order that today. I am also going to try to split that pump today and inspect it while it is accessible. Great suggestion!
                            Off to start turning wrenches on the Sketerzeke now. Thanks and first ride goes to you guys!
                            Robert in Richmond, VA
                            Disabled American vet too poor to be a boat owner but I have one anyway

                            Comment



                            • #15
                              Re: OMC 115 Turbojet/Seaswirl Squirt

                              The cylinder head gaskets are inexpensive, even at full list OEM prices.

                              The parts lists and list prices for your motor and jet drive are all on line on the BRP/Evinrude site: http://shop.evinrude.com/

                              Just click the parts diagram in the upper right and select TurboJet from the first window's pick list. Then navigate to your year. "The Cylinder and Crankcase" diagram shows the parts and clicking the diagram number takes you to the line item for price and part number.

                              If you do decide to remove the cylinder heads, be sure to check the water deflectors.

                              Comment

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