All,
I recently obtained a 58 whaler with a 74 Evinrude 50HP on the back. I'm very new to boating, but I hold my own when it comes to electronics and engine work on an automotive application.
I'm having ignition issues and I have gone through the whole shabang for diags. My concerning results:
I did what I can to test everything, the book mentions a neon test light that has a switch and 2 buttons to produce a load, seems like a nifty way to skip some of the components. I can make my own light but what is happening with the load switch and buttons? Is the switch for the light portion and are the buttons a dead short to ground, or is it like a BBQ starter throwing a short burst of voltage out? Any info about these S-80 and M80 neon test lights or homemade dohickies is much appreciated.
So outside of not using this test light load button gig, I took a peak voltage on the timer base, and its producing a steady 0.375 Vac. I read somewhere that I may need to adjust the timer base sensor to come closer to the flywheel, but its already at the max adjustment (or better said, min gap). I didn't do a paint or bluing test to see if theres any contact but I did run the ohms across the leads, and got 16.5 ohms, which is in the acceptable limits. My question, is .375 Vac (a) enough to let the power pack do its job, (b) whats the min Vac for the power pack switch, and (c) whats the spec on a 50 hp timer base output voltage. I've seen .5V and I've seen .3V on a different Evinrude in the clymer do it all manual. If in fact it is minimum .5Vac, then I assume the only option is a new base, thinking that the adjustment was made running hours ago and contact with the flywheel has worn the sensor face down.
Please help, thanks in advance!
I recently obtained a 58 whaler with a 74 Evinrude 50HP on the back. I'm very new to boating, but I hold my own when it comes to electronics and engine work on an automotive application.
I'm having ignition issues and I have gone through the whole shabang for diags. My concerning results:
I did what I can to test everything, the book mentions a neon test light that has a switch and 2 buttons to produce a load, seems like a nifty way to skip some of the components. I can make my own light but what is happening with the load switch and buttons? Is the switch for the light portion and are the buttons a dead short to ground, or is it like a BBQ starter throwing a short burst of voltage out? Any info about these S-80 and M80 neon test lights or homemade dohickies is much appreciated.
So outside of not using this test light load button gig, I took a peak voltage on the timer base, and its producing a steady 0.375 Vac. I read somewhere that I may need to adjust the timer base sensor to come closer to the flywheel, but its already at the max adjustment (or better said, min gap). I didn't do a paint or bluing test to see if theres any contact but I did run the ohms across the leads, and got 16.5 ohms, which is in the acceptable limits. My question, is .375 Vac (a) enough to let the power pack do its job, (b) whats the min Vac for the power pack switch, and (c) whats the spec on a 50 hp timer base output voltage. I've seen .5V and I've seen .3V on a different Evinrude in the clymer do it all manual. If in fact it is minimum .5Vac, then I assume the only option is a new base, thinking that the adjustment was made running hours ago and contact with the flywheel has worn the sensor face down.
Please help, thanks in advance!