72 Evinrude 65hp Ignition switch problem

[rgeddes]

I have a 72 Evinrude 65Hp and need to replace the ignition switch. The switch in my boat has 5 prongs on it. The new switch has 6 prongs on it. When I installed the switch, it keeps blowing the starter fuse when I turn on the key. Any suggestions?

 

[James R]

Re: 72 Evinrude 65hp Ignition switch problem

Look to the letters by the terminals. M goes to ground,Black. The second M goes to the power pack,Black/yellow. S goes to the start sol, White. A goes to the fuse, Purple.

 

[rgeddes]

Re: 72 Evinrude 65hp Ignition switch problem

I will give that a shot. One of the M has a regular prong, the other M has a screw in. Will this switch work? Do it matter which wire I put to the different type of M?

 

[jay_merrill]

Re: 72 Evinrude 65hp Ignition switch problem

The new ignition switches have two leads that are connected to one another. This was done because of the number of circuits that must be connected to them. If I remember correctly, it is the purple wires that are involved.

Look at your switch carefully - you can see where the two in question are joined. When you find them, split the purple wires between the two and connect he remaining wires as suggested above. I suspect that what you are doing is to try to reconnect wires in sequence by referencing the old switch. If so, at some point, you will be one lead out of sequence and will end up with one unused lead.


BTW, when you get the leads straightened out, you need to check the rectifier output too, because you have blown that as well.

 

[James R]

Re: 72 Evinrude 65hp Ignition switch problem

It doesn't matter which M is connected. One is to black and one is to black/yellow. This is the turn motor off and allow motor to fire circuit.
Purple/white is the DC+ from the fuse. This can feed the dash fuse panel also, on an additional purple from the same terminal on the switch.

 

[rgeddes]

Re: 72 Evinrude 65hp Ignition switch problem

I fixed the wiring on the ignition switch and the fuse is no longer blowing. However, It still will not start. I think that I need to replace the rectifier. I have a Seloc manual for 72, but my motor is not covered. 1. Does anyone know which book that I can purchase for my 72 Evinrude 65HP motor? 2. Where is the rectifier located? I think that is located just below and to the right of the coil pack. Is that it?

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: 72 Evinrude 65hp Ignition switch problem

get the correct manual, outboardbooks.com.

 

[jay_merrill]

Re: 72 Evinrude 65hp Ignition switch problem

The rectifier is located on the starboard side, above the powerpack and forward of the electrical block. It looks line a closed tube on end, with a base plate. The diameter is roughly that of a nickle.

Even if the rectifier is blown, it shouldn't be the source of your problem in regard to starting, because its purpose is to convert the 300 VAC that the stator produces, to 12 VDC for the engine's charging system.

From an electrical standpoint, failure of your motor to start will be one of the following:

IGNITION SYSTEM
Timing or linkage improperly adjusted
Sheared flywheel key
Loose wiring
Ignition system faulty (key switch)
Sensor coils
Charge coils
Power Pack III
Sensor coil leads reversed
Ignition coil power leads incorrectly connected to pack

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
Safety switch screws loose
Starter circuit faulty
20 ampere fuse
Gear shift not in neutral
Selector switch defective in neutral

I strongly recommend that you invest a few dollars in an OEM service manual for your motor. Trying to troubleshoot it without one is basically guesswork, unless the mechanic involved just knows OMC ouboards well enough to do so by memory. Manuals are available here at iboats and in a few other places.

Also, why did you replace the key switch in the first place? What were the symptoms that you were experiencing?

 

[rgeddes]

Re: 72 Evinrude 65hp Ignition switch problem

I got the boat and a trailer very cheaply. However, it did not have any keys. I purchased a key switch at the local dealer. It wasn't exact. It had the push to choke and the letters on the switch were different. For example, my old switch had an a prong and a s prong. This new switch has a combined a/s prong and an I prong. It looks like I still may have problems with that switch . I saw a key switch that looks very similar to my today on iBoats.

Do you know the exact model number for the manual for my motor? I thought the manual I bought was for my motor, but it covers all 1972 motors except mine. I don't want to make that mistake again.

 

[jay_merrill]

Re: 72 Evinrude 65hp Ignition switch problem

What you have is an aftermarket service manual. Generally speaking, they aren't worth much. As you have found out, they try to cover too many motors and don't do a very good job of providing useful information for any one of them.

If your motor is a 1972 Johnson 65 hp, the model number will be either "65ES72" or 65ESL72." You can confirm the year by looking for a data plate on the port side transom bracket. The ES is the short shaft (15") motor and the ESL is the long shaft (20") motor. Chances are that you have an ESL model, simply because not many ES models were sold, in comparison to the long shaft version.

Order a Johnson service manual using the model number. They are available right here at iboats, or through another vendor.

The next thing on your list should be to find and OMC/BRP dealer in your area. If the key switch that you bought is not an OMC part, it may not work properly with your engine. You could also have just ordered a new key through the OMC/BRP dealer, at a cost of about five dollars. If you look at the face of your old switch, there is a key code stamped in it.

Before you attempt further repairs, it is very important that you get the correct manual and then study it. Trying to fix something by guessing is neither effective or wise, because you may end up damaging more things than you fix.

BTW, one of the "quirks" in regard to starting your motor, is that the shift switch (inside of the control box) may not be in exactly the right position, even though the shift handle is in the neutral position. That switch has a dual function, in that it shifts the gears and provides a neutral safety feature. If the toggle is not in exactly the right position, the start circuit is opened and nothing will happen when you turn the key. If that is what you are experiencing, try moving the shift handle just a little fore and/or aft.