• If this is your first visit to the iboats.com Boating Forums, be sure to check out the FAQ. To post a question or comment, begin by signing up. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.


Announcement

Announcement Module
Collapse

Help Tip: If you have a question that has not been answered to your satisfaction in the archives, it is always best to start a new thread of your own. By starting your own thread, you will receive the maximum number of views by forum members.

Below are some additional forum policies in hopes of all iboats members will follow, Thank you.

1. Please do not reply to old topics or hijack existing topics. Old topics of a technical nature are like a library book, Please do not write in them.

2. Old topics should be considered archives and used for reference only. Please do not reply to them.

3. Do not take over someone elseís topic (aka hijack) with your own question, even if it is similar. If you have a question that has not been covered to your satisfaction in the archives, it is always best to start a new topic of your own.

4. If you have a question for the original poster (OP) and the topic is over 30 days old, send the OP a PM, he may not even visit the forums any longer, or may not notice your question in the old topic.

5. By starting your own topic, you will receive the maximum number of views by forum helpers that may not even notice your question when itís posted at the end of someone elseís topic. And those answers will be specific to your particular issue.

6. Please do not post to topics that have been inactive for more than 3 months unless you are the original poster. We have very active forums and any topic that remains inactive for that long should be considered "dead". It is especially confusing when there is an entirely new question posted to an old topic.

7. Posting at the end of any topic is considered to be hijacking the original posters topic which in turn subjects the topic to be closed if it continues to happen thus not making it fair to the original poster in the future had for some reason he/she needed to return for additional information or provide an update of the problem solved which is always welcomed within a reasonable amount of time frame.

8. Please note that you should see a red banner pop up near the bottom of each inactive topic asking you not to reply to old topics. The Red banner will read: Please note this topic has been inactive for 90 days. For the best results, please start a new topic.

Thank you all in advance for doing your part in helping iboats run a smooth ship.

Additional forum rules linked below.
http://forums.iboats.com/forum-rules-guidelines-405/
See more
See less

1986 Evinrude 40 HP Constant Alarm

Page Title Module
Move Remove Collapse
X
Conversation Detail Module
Collapse
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts


  • 1986 Evinrude 40 HP Constant Alarm

    I have a 1986 Evinrude 40 HP. One day as I went to launch the boat, my battery finally died. Being determined to launch the boat my friend and I ran to the truck and pulled out the truck battery. I started the boat fine and everything was okay. As we were cruising to our destination we decided to remove the truck battery and swap back the dead battery in hopes it would charge it up. As soon as the terminals were lifted from the battery the alarm started to sound. I put the dead battery under the terminals and the alarm kept sounding. So, I put the truck battery back under the terminals and the alarm kept sounding. The alarm has been sounding since then which has been 2 months. Ive asked several people and they all tell me to disconnect the brown wire, since it used to be a VRO, but the wire has been disconnected along time ago. The boat runs great, except that annoying constant alarm coming from the controls....ANY SUGGESTIONS PLEASE!?!?
    THANKS
    Mike


  • #2
    Re: 1986 Evinrude 40 HP Constant Alarm

    J/E Alarms

    low oil alarm is a beep every 30 seconds. beep......................beep...................

    no oil alarm is a beep every 1/2 second or so.beep,beep,beep

    overheat alarm is a constant beep.beeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeep

    you probably have a bad temp sender, or a bad horn in the control box. could easily have blown, surprize you did not blow anything else, like the rectifier, or worse. rectifier is probably bad also, have you check to see if your motor is charging your battery? you are not suppose to disconnect battery from a running motor.
    FLORIDA GATORS
    TEBOW Country



    Please, NO PM's (Private Messages) regarding boat/engine problems. they will not be answered.
    That is what these forums are for. Post your questions, in the appropriate Forum.

    Comment



    • #3
      Re: 1986 Evinrude 40 HP Constant Alarm

      Its a constant beep. I will never disconnect the battery again, while running, thats for sure! But I'll look into both of those parts and check it out....thanks for the advice!

      Comment



      • #4
        Re: 1986 Evinrude 40 HP Constant Alarm

        You are stating that the horn sounds immediately when the key is turned to ON right?

        If so, open up the remote control and unplug the TAN wire that is connected to the horn. If the horn continues to sound, it is faulty and you will need to replace it. (not cheap for what it is by the way)

        If it DOES stop, a sensor component is to blame. To determine which one, start unplugging the TAN wires from them one at a time until the horn stops. When it does you have found the faulty component. The components are the heat sensors, oil tank, VRO, vaccuum swithc, etc....
        Chris

        Top Secret Files:

        http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=299680

        Comment



        • #5
          Re: 1986 Evinrude 40 HP Constant Alarm

          Okay this is what else I found out. I dug deeper into the problem just a few minutes ago. The alarm does start immediately after turning the key to the ON position. I do not have to start the motor to get the beep. In the back of the engine there is a large red connector. An Orange/Purple Stripe wire from that connector goes to another fuse connector. When I disconnect the fuse connector it stops beeping. The fuse is good though. That wire then goes through the solenoid and ends to what looks like a capacitor(not sure). Does that bring light to any other situations, or not? I will check the control box in the morning since it is starting to get dark here now. I will update with prognosis after that. Thanks to all for your insight, it is really helpful!!
          Thanks again

          Comment



          • #6
            Re: 1986 Evinrude 40 HP Constant Alarm

            That 20 amp fuse controls the starting circuit, and removing it will kill all power to the remote control, which is where your horn is likely located.

            Try removing the TAN wire from the horn to see what happens. Let us know what you find.
            Chris

            Top Secret Files:

            http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=299680

            Comment



            • #7
              Re: 1986 Evinrude 40 HP Constant Alarm

              Okay...heres the update.....I pulled off the controls and checked out the horn. There is a tan lead and 2 purple leads going into it. Also there is a black lead that grounds it out to the chassis. If I pull either lead off the beep stops. So now its safe to believe it is a bad sensor. Now the problem is, the large red 8pin connector changes colors at the male part. So is there 2 other sensors that I should check out? Are these sensors located inside the motor or are they externally mounted? Thanks again for all your help!

              Comment



              • #8
                Re: 1986 Evinrude 40 HP Constant Alarm

                I found a wiring diagram on continuous wave, but it does not help me since I do not have any accessories. Does the tan wire go to a terminal block. The only tan wire I found is the old vro wire which is disconnected.

                Comment



                • #9
                  Re: 1986 Evinrude 40 HP Constant Alarm

                  You also have a tan wire running to the temperature switch at the cylinder head. That is the overheat switch which grounds the tan wire when the engine overheats. The purple wire on the horn is the positive feed from the ignition.

                  On all circuits relating to the horn, the horn is activated when the tan wire is gounded, completing the circuit.

                  The second purple wire is there to continue positive feed to the tachometer plug, when and if ever needed.

                  You have a short to ground somewhere on your tan wire. The tan wire does not run to the terminal block.

                  Comment



                  • #10
                    Re: 1986 Evinrude 40 HP Constant Alarm

                    okay I just looked at it...and I see what your talking about....is that something I can take out?? It looks like its sealed in there...also its dark out, so I'll check it in the afternoon...but thanks for that insight!!


                    also, I removed the link....I saw what you meant...thanks for the heads up!

                    Comment



                    • #11
                      Re: 1986 Evinrude 40 HP Constant Alarm

                      There should be a disconnect for the temperature switch a few inches down the tan wire. Try disconnecting the wire and see if it stops the horn. If it does, the temperature switch is probably bad. If the horn keeps sounding, the short is somewhere else.

                      Comment



                      • #12
                        Re: 1986 Evinrude 40 HP Constant Alarm

                        Key ON, engine NOT running, horn sounding constant..... remove tan wire from horn. If horn continues to sound, replace horn. If horn stops sounding, check rectifier as follows which is usuaally damaged if battery is disconnected when engine is running.

                        (Small Rectifier Description & Location)
                        (J. Reeves)

                        On most 2,3,4,6 cylinder engines, the small rectifier is located on the starboard (right) side of the engine just in front of the engines electrical wiring strip. There are a few older V4 engines that have the wiring strip on the rear portion of the engine and the rectifier would be located just under that terminal strip. The smaller horsepower engines usually have the rectifier located on the starboard side of the powerhead close to the carburetor area.

                        The rectifier appears to be a round object approximately one inch (1") in diameter and also about one inch (1") high. The base of it is sort of triangular in appearance and is attached to the engine with two (2) screws/bolts..... usually one screw/bolt is larger than the other. The rectifier, depending on which one your engine uses, will have either:

                        One Red wire, one Yellow wire, and one Yellow/Gray wire, or One Red wire, and two Yellow wires.

                        Note that either of the above rectifiers could have a fourth wire which would be Yellow/Blue

                        ********************
                        (Small Rectifier Test)
                        (J. Reeves)

                        Remove the rectifier wires from the terminal block. Using a ohm meter, connect the black lead of the ohm meter to the rectifier base (ground), then one by one, connect the red lead of the ohm meter to the yellow, yellow/gray, then the red wire (some rectifiers may also have a fourth yellow/blue wire. If so connect to that also). Now, reverse the ohm meter leads and check those same wires again. You should get a reading in one direction, and none at all in the other direction.

                        Now, connect the black lead of the ohm meter to the red wire. One by one, connect the red lead of the ohm meter to the yellow, yellow/gray, and if present, the yellow/blue wire. Then reverse the leads, checking the wires again. Once more, you should get a reading in one direction and none in the other.

                        Note that the reading obtained from the red rectifier wire will be lower then what is obtained from the other wires.

                        Any deviation from the "Reading", "No Reading" as above indicates a faulty rectifier. Note that a rectifier will not tolerate reverse polarity. Simply touching the battery with the cables in the reverse order or hooking up a battery charger backwards will blow the diodes in the rectifier assy immediately.
                        Our Questions Require Answers... If You Refuse To Answer Our Questions... How Can We Answer Yours?

                        Comment



                        • #13
                          Re: 1986 Evinrude 40 HP Constant Alarm

                          OK...I have disconnected the temp sensor and it the alarm keeps sounding....I checked to see if the battery is getting a charge from the rectifier and it is getting charged. I disconnected a lead from the horn and it stops sounding. What to do now??

                          Comment



                          • #14
                            Re: 1986 Evinrude 40 HP Constant Alarm

                            continue with the other sensor components until the horn stops.
                            Chris

                            Top Secret Files:

                            http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=299680

                            Comment



                            • #15
                              Re: 1986 Evinrude 40 HP Constant Alarm

                              You have a short to ground in the tan wire of your main harness. You can isolate it with an ohmmeter.

                              Comment


                              Working...
                              X