1975 EVINRUDE 115HP

firstboat25

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Sep 2, 2005
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Hey Guys<br /> Well season is off to just a great start <br />Started boat today and noticed after it ran for awhile water stopped sparying out the exhaust holes and the warning horn sounded I shut motor down and left off <br /> Im assuming the water pump/ impeller let go <br />glad that it did now then on the water <br /> what do I need to do to change it ?<br />thank you for the help in advance
 

rickdb1boat

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Jan 23, 2002
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11,195
Re: 1975 EVINRUDE 115HP

You will need to pick up a waterpump kit from either your dealer or online. Then you will need to drop the lower unit to access the pump. Also, you will need to pick up a manual for your motor... Not real hard to do, but the Manual will lead you through it...
 

ezeke

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Sep 19, 2003
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Re: 1975 EVINRUDE 115HP

Buy the whole water pump kit from your dealer because you will want to have everything you need before you start.<br /><br />There are 7 bolts that you will need to remove from under the cavitation plate on the lower unit to release it from the mid-section or exhaust housing. One of these actually holds the trim tab, but there is another bolt above the tab that must be removed. <br /><br />There is a single bolt that connects the shift rod at the top. It is located near center, starboard, immediately under the rear of the carbs and is the cause of much swearing. You should familiarize yourself with that connection before you begin and make sure that you have the tools and a strategy for removal and replacement of that bolt. If you drop the bolt, it may be difficult to retrieve, so a piece of cloth slid under the carbs and up to the rod may help to catch it.<br /><br />When you have released the shift rod, make every effort not to allow the swivel at the top of the shift rod to turn, as it must go back as it was. I usually put some masking tape on until I put the unit back.<br /><br />This is a really good time to look over the rest of the gearcase, clean out the drains and even do a pressure test if you have the time.<br /><br />It is a real help to have a second set of hands around when you put the unit back on.<br /><br />Best of luck!
 

firstboat25

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Re: 1975 EVINRUDE 115HP

I started to take apart the lower unit and drained the gear oil the oil came out like a carmel/tan color and there are little pieces of metal on the drain plug any ideas ?
 

ezeke

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Re: 1975 EVINRUDE 115HP

You have picked up some water. Top of the line gear oils will protect the gearcase against some water intrusion, and you can change the oil more often as a precaution, too, but eventually you should get the seal kit and stop the leaks.<br /><br />The metal fragments are from the gears but don't panic, a little bit is not unusual, especially if the oil has not been changed for a while. You can slow down the gear destruction by pausing at neutral, and making quick, decisive shifts from idle speed.<br /><br />While you have the lower unit off, you can put a little air pressure on the gearcase through the oil change ports, and then submerge the gearcase and the air bubbles will tell you where the leaks are. The leaks are often from bad washers on the oil plugs. You can get new washers from your dealer.
 

firstboat25

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Re: 1975 EVINRUDE 115HP

Ok I have all the bolts off the lower unit on the bolt however thats under the carbs is it a big bolt that hold the lever on or is there another one I took the big one off but lower unit will not come off it has started to pull apart but thats about it <br />did I take the right bolt off
 

KYHunter2

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Mar 20, 2006
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Re: 1975 EVINRUDE 115HP

It sounds like you took the wrong bolt off/loose. The one you need to get is , I believe 3/8 " and has a 1/2" or so pin with a few threads at the head. The one I think you took off is to tighten link around , the linkage pin? If thats the case ,Id try to put it back. The one you need is at the very top of the shift rod. <br /><br /> Just something that will make you swear , a little less. <br /> As you've been told the shift rod bolt is hard to access and even harder to put back. <br /> I bought a flexible , 4 finger grabber, its about 2 ft. long . It has 4 prongs that extend when a plunger is depressed on handle end.<br /> There about $5.00 or so at most auto parts , chain stores.<br /> It will hold the bolt great until you can get the pin part of the bolt through the shift rod and link.<br /> It will save alot of time and as said cussin".<br /> If you dont want to buy one . A 1/4 inch drive, with extension will do . I fill the socket with grease , to hold bolt.<br /> Much easier with long finger thing . <br /> Good-Luck,<br /> KYHunter
 

ezeke

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Re: 1975 EVINRUDE 115HP

Bombardier Recreational Products (BRP for short) is the successor to Outboard Marine Corporation (OMC) which manufactured your motor before the bankruptcy. <br /><br />BRP has very kindly provided access to their parts diagrams at no cost (which OMC never did).<br /><br />You can find the parts breakdown for your motor here: <br /> BRP Parts Diagrams
 

firstboat25

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Re: 1975 EVINRUDE 115HP

is what im looking for all the way at the end of the rod looks like its the thing is pressed in ?
 

firstboat25

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Re: 1975 EVINRUDE 115HP

the one at the very end of the rod doesnt look like a bolt no head
 

ezeke

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Re: 1975 EVINRUDE 115HP

Having said all of that, if you go to the diagrams for your motor and then open and enlarge the gearcase diagram, you can see part labeled 76 in the upper right hand corner. <br /><br />That part is at the top of the shift rod and extends through the floor of the engine compartment (lower cowl). <br /><br />If you look closely at the sketch, you can see the hole from which you need to remove the pin.
 

KYHunter2

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Mar 20, 2006
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Re: 1975 EVINRUDE 115HP

Dave,<br /> If your looking from port side of engine . The end could look like its pressed in. The bolt head (at least on the ones I've done) is on the starboard side. <br /> I posted this just in case you have trouble reading motor diagram.<br /> Good - Luck,<br /> KYHunter
 

firstboat25

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Re: 1975 EVINRUDE 115HP

I got the lower unit off there wasnt a bolt it was sort of like a pin, what a pain <br /> Now my question is the unit took some work to come off it did not wanna let go when it finally did Im not sure if the tab stayed or if it moved <br /> what will happen if it did move when it goes make together
 

KYHunter2

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Re: 1975 EVINRUDE 115HP

I looked at diagram. What is the tab?<br /> Do you mean the connector, at the end of the shift rod , may have turned?<br /> Its hard to see in diagram . But, if you turned it , it changed the adjustment, of shift rod length.<br /> I'm not sure how much, it would depend on, how far it was turned.<br /> I do, as stated previously, tape it, so it won't turn.<br /> All that only matters, if thats how yours is adjusted. And if ,thats what you mean by tab. LOL.<br /> Good-Luck,<br /> KYHunter
 

firstboat25

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Re: 1975 EVINRUDE 115HP

Sorry about that yes I do mean the connector lol<br />it may have turned one way or the other not sure I had to fight with lower unit to get it off then all of a sudden it came free and I was oh s**** lol<br />I bought boat last year and it wasnt well maintained at all <br />If it did go one way or the other how will I know?<br />is it basically put it back together and see what happens ?<br /> Thanks
 

KYHunter2

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Re: 1975 EVINRUDE 115HP

There's a measurement for the shift rod length. I dont know it for your engine , but Dhadley, and others, would. <br /> If you can get him to reply, maybe ask that question specifically , of him.<br /> I doubt you turned it much, but dont really know. <br /> I've allways taped mine ahead of time, and haven't had to check the measurement.<br /> Its alot easier to adjust with it off, I believe.<br /> Its up to you, as to try it or not .<br /> I do know if you changed it much , its not good. Can really effect your shifting.<br /> Good-Luck,<br /> KYHunter
 

ezeke

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Sep 19, 2003
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Re: 1975 EVINRUDE 115HP

If it did not turn more than one complete revolution, it will probably be within the tolerance limits. You should then be able to adjust the cable to make up for any minor difference.<br /><br />Unlike other models, when necessary, these can be turned from the top with the unit in place, a little at a time, with a stiff wire through the hole.
 

Solittle

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Apr 28, 2002
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Re: 1975 EVINRUDE 115HP

You should really get a shop manual or hit the reference section of your library. You will learn a lot and screw up less.
 

ledgefinder

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May 2, 2002
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Re: 1975 EVINRUDE 115HP

Some of the posters are confusing your 1973-77 V4lower unit with the later models. <br /><br />On yours, there is a fitting on the top of the shift rod, that is captured by a pin in the pivoting mechanism under the carbs. If you loosen/remove the main bolt that holding the pivoting mechanism together, the pin lets the fitting go. Most people find it easier to remove the carbs (maybe cleaning the carbs out at the same time), than trying to futz around ounder them. <br /><br />On the later models, there's a nice arrangement on the port side that you can get at, to free the shift shaft, without pulling the carbs. Also oin the later models, there is no fitting at the top of the shift shaft, just a flat on the shaft with a hole in it. Finally, on the later models, which are purely mechanical, the length of the shift shaft is important. On your lower unit (which is hydraulically-assisted mechanical), try not to change the length of the shift shaft , but it's not critical. If it got threaded around some, turn it until the shaft if just flush with the top of the fitting (not sticking through any) that should be just about right. Again, it is not critical on yours, but is on the later models. The 21" etc measure does not apply to your lower unit, at all.<br /><br />I wouldn't run in salt much with a leaky lower unit. Not a good idea anyway, but yours has a hydraulic pump and valves in it - salt water is not kind to them. Ezeke's pressure test works well, keep it under 7psi, hopefully it's just a drain plug gasket, but at least you'll know where it's leaking.
 
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