VRO conversion 150 hp

pastorbud

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 1, 2005
Messages
555
I have 150 hp outboard with an Evinrude Bombardier cover, but the model number is J150EXECD, so I think it's a Johnson.

it needs a fuel pump, and I am thinking about switching it to manual fuel/oil mix. The kits I see on the Internet say they won't work with a 60° or a looped engine.

Two questions:
is that model a 60°?
And if it is, is there a kit out there to convert it to manual mix?
 

boobie

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 5, 2009
Messages
20,826
You have a 60* motor. You can use your VRO for running premix with the oil side disconnected.
 

Chris1956

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 25, 2004
Messages
27,145
The maxrules website has a conversion fuel pump and instructions to change to pre-mix
 

Chris1956

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 25, 2004
Messages
27,145
Your model number does indicate a 1998 Johnson, 60* V6, 150HP motor with carbs and an XL (25") shaft.
 

pastorbud

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 1, 2005
Messages
555
Thanks, guys. Mine (VRO) currently leaks when you squeeze the primer bulb, so I think I'm hit for a new pump. May as well convert to pre-mix while I'm at it.
 

ahicks

Captain
Joined
Sep 16, 2013
Messages
3,957
The question is, or maybe should be, would you trust your engine to an oil pump that's 20 years old? I know what my answer would be....

I'm with the OP. Time to start premixing....
 

cfauvel

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 16, 2005
Messages
645
The gas side diaphragm and the air motor side diaphragm are replaceable....the oil side consists of two parts the electronics which has a rubber diaphragm that lets oil in and plugs up when the oil piston snaps towards it. The other part of the oil side is the mixing bowl it has the bore which the piston rides on and another check valve that lets oil into the mixing area and prevents gas from coming into the oil chamber(electronics part).

The oil side is available for about $86 that will include the electronics side with check valve, mixing bowl with new bore/check valve and proper sealed reset pin.

if you know how the pump works, the worry of not getting oil should be eliminated. You DO have to test the no-oil circuitry , low-oil circuitry and oil-consumption periodically. In my experience as the pump wears more oil is used, not less.

There are, however, issues with the air motor, fuel diaphragm and intermediate housing that can cause a no-fuel condition (but if there is no fuel then the motor is not running so there is no worry of not getting enough oil).

if the housing is leaking between the oil mixing bowl and intermediate housing then it is possible that the holes to which the screws insert, are worn and not squeezing the parts together and not sealing the edges properly...my fix for this condition was to fashion two crescent shape metal backings to which the screws insert..

if the gas leak is the nipples then there are o-rings that can be replaced and are available here.

if the gas leak is at the top of the reset pin, then super glue or epoxy can be applied to fix that,

I can supply pics if needed.

BUT these fixes assumes that the check valves in the intermediate housing are functional...if they are not there is no fix. you have to get a new intermediate housing, which maybe very difficult or pricey.

I just received a faulty 1990 VRO2 from a guy who had his engine just not pump fuel...diaphragms were fine...this issue was the check valves allowing the vacuum to be drawn from both the front and back of the air motor, thus a non-functioning air pump...no air pump, then no fuel...


OP your 1998 VRO is actually an OMS and is pretty good....from where is the fuel leaking? can you supply a pic?

personally I think the people selling the lawn mower style fuel pumps are gouging people (as well as bombardier with the price of a new OMS). There is no way those pumps should be $200....Not sure if there is even a source for replacement diaphragms and check valves for them.
 
Last edited:

pastorbud

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 1, 2005
Messages
555
Thanks, guys. Just bought this boat for the hull, but getting this motor running (rather than replacing it) would save some $$$. Awfully cold to go work on it now. In Connecticut. Which reminds me, I have some winterization questions. Will check other threads first, and post elsewhere if needed.
 

cfauvel

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 16, 2005
Messages
645
OP your 1998 VRO is actually an OMS and is pretty good....from where is the fuel leaking? can you supply a pic?
 

pastorbud

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 1, 2005
Messages
555
You can see the leak at the bottom of the second (center) picture. I think it's leaking gas from just above the clamp. And that sensor won't stay in... the one with the black and tan wires. It has an o-ring on it, but with the o-ring on, it won't press into the hole. With it off, of course, it will go in, but it doesn't seal.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2944.JPG
    IMG_2944.JPG
    1.7 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2943.JPG
    IMG_2943.JPG
    1.9 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2945.JPG
    IMG_2945.JPG
    1.1 MB · Views: 0
Last edited:

mav6759

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 25, 2007
Messages
489
I don't know if this helps you any....I have a thread where i put the newer stall fuel pump on my evinrude 120...As I was looking at your pic's, it seems you have the same fuel/VRO pump that i took off mine...I put the newer style fuel pump which eliminated the VRO side and I ran my fuel 50:1...To be honest, I just didn't trust the VRO side with all the issues they had when they first came out...
 

pastorbud

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 1, 2005
Messages
555
I poked around some more and figured out the previous owner had already disconnected the oil side.
 

cfauvel

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 16, 2005
Messages
645
I don't know if this helps you any....I have a thread where i put the newer stall fuel pump on my evinrude 120...As I was looking at your pic's, it seems you have the same fuel/VRO pump that i took off mine...I put the newer style fuel pump which eliminated the VRO side and I ran my fuel 50:1...To be honest, I just didn't trust the VRO side with all the issues they had when they first came out...

the "VRO side" actually has nothing to do with the amount of oil is mixed. People confuse that electronics designed to tell you if you have a No-oil condition with the mechanism to vary the rate of oil.
 

cfauvel

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 16, 2005
Messages
645
You can see the leak at the bottom of the second (center) picture. I think it's leaking gas from just above the clamp. And that sensor won't stay in... the one with the black and tan wires. It has an o-ring on it, but with the o-ring on, it won't press into the hole. With it off, of course, it will go in, but it doesn't seal.

I think you are fine...the gas leaks appear to be around the fuel hoses, and since they appear to be wet on both sides I suspect only the hoses themselves...just buy some new hose of the proper size and install them.
 

oldboat1

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Apr 3, 2002
Messages
9,607
Might clean up first with some carb cleaner or mineral spirits, then pump the primer bulb again or have a helper pump it -- should see where it's leaking. Premix if any test running.

Think I would check compression at least before much work or money -- spark too, while you are at it.
 

pastorbud

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 1, 2005
Messages
555
The back story on this motor is that the previous owner paid $800 to a "mobile marine mechanic" to put in new power packs. When it still didn't run right, he got fed up and put it on the market cheap.

I have since found out that the oil line was capped, but all the VRO circuitry was still connected. It was producing no spark, so after I researched, I saw that the VR all circuitry needs to be disconnected, or it will automatically shut down the ignition. I now have spark.

Working on fuel. I have noticed that a couple of the carb bowls are leaking. Which seems to be a common problem and a fairly easy fix.
 
Last edited:

pastorbud

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 1, 2005
Messages
555
Might clean up first with some carb cleaner or mineral spirits, then pump the primer bulb again or have a helper pump it -- should see where it's leaking. Premix if any test running.

Think I would check compression at least before much work or money -- spark too, while you are at it.

Yeh, I checked compression today, cold weather and all. I got 110 on two cylinders, 90 on three cylinders, and 80 on one. Not the results I wanted.

It's been sitting a while in the cold, so I'm hoping that 80 can be improved upon with some running time.
 
Top