Johnson 1955 CD-12 Pull Start Cord

LouB64

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Dec 12, 2017
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Hi. I recently bought a 1955 CD-12. It had one spark and descent compression (both 60psi). I cleaned the points and now I have both sparks. My question is on the pull starter cord. Is there a way to replace the cord without taking the unit apart? It pulls hard to come out but It retracts real strong. The string is original with the black backing coming off. It seems to be fraying now that the backing is mostly off. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
 

Joe Reeves

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CD-12 = 1955 5.5hp Johnson

I assume that the spring is okay, and if so, start with what I have colored RED.

********************
(Manual Starter Assembly)
(This pertains to the type of Manual Starter Housing that sits over top of the flywheel)
(J. Reeves)

Lay the manual starter housing upside down on the workbench.

Wind the spring "counter clockwise" in your hands so that you can lay it into the housing, having the outer spring end hooked over the retaining pin. Make sure the spring is in there properly (You do not want it to fly out of there).

Holding the spring down, with pliers carefully bend about 3" or 4" (more or less) on the inner portion of the spring in towards the center of the housing. This will allow the pulley pin to enter the retaining hole at the end of the spring properly.

Lay the pulley down over the spring, making sure that the pin on the pulley is secured to the retaining hole on the end of the spring. Install the spindle (center bearing gizzmo), bolt, nut, etc, whatever your particular manual starter may use.

The cord (nylon) should be roughly 72" long. Have a figure 8 knot in one end. Heat the other end so that you could form a point on it, wiping it with a rag when it's burning or hot to a melting point.

Now, with the starter housing still upside down, keeping a firm grip on that starter housing and also the pulley, start winding the pulley in the normal counter clockwise direction. Wind it as far as it will go, then carefully let it back off until the starter pulley cord hole is aligned with the housing cord outlet.

Hold the pulley there and insert the cord in through the inside of the pulley and out through the starter housing. Pull the cord through completely and get a good grip on it. Now let the pulley retract the cord, but hold onto the cord (don't let it fly in there).

If it's obvious that the cord is too long, figuring what will be needed within the handle, shorten it as needed.

Pull the cord out so that about two feet of the cord is exposed. Tie a slip knot so that the cord can't retract back.

Insert the cord into the handle and secure as needed, then release the slip knot allowing the cord to be withdrawn fully. That's all there is to it..
 

F_R

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Joe's instructions are correct for a starter that has been apart. However if the cord is not broken and everything else is working do this: Look for a hole about 1/8" diameter in the rope pulley (the side facing the flywheel). Find a nail, allen wrench, or whatever, that will fit through that hole. Now pull the rope all the way out and stick the nail through the hole and let the rope retract slightly till the nail stops it. Now the pulley is prevented from rewinding and you can remove and replace the rope at your own pace. When ready, hang onto the rope, remove the nail, and let it slowly retract.
 

F_R

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Um......the 1955 had that rope with a wire core covered with cotton or something, with a brass hook on the inner end. That thing is getting rare. You can use a hard braid nylon rope with a knot instead. However, you must be very careful not to pull it all the way to the end. If you do, it will cut the knot off and the pulley&spring will go flying back and ruin or severely damage the spring.

There is a newer pulley with a pin to prevent pulling the rope tight against the knot.
 

LouB64

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Dec 12, 2017
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That is true F_R mine does have that brass hook. The cable is still intact and most of the black covering is off the wire. How do I get that brass hook off to pull out the old cord? Thanks everyone.
 

F_R

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You don't get the hook off. You remove the handle, then grab the hook and pull the rope out in that direction.
 

RCO

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When those recoils get slow to retract it's usually because there is decades old grease hardened inside them. It is definitely worth while to disassemble, clean, and relube the assembly.
 

LouB64

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Dec 12, 2017
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Thank you F_R. That makes sense to me now. Thanks RCO.. I guess I'm a little leery about taking it apart. I saw some youtube videos on the pain it is to set it back up. I suppose I'll change the rope then see how the pull cords pulls and retracts. I tried to post pictures but I guess since I'm a cadet I don't have that privilege yet. Thanks I'll keep you updated. I'm working my way down the motor.
 
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F_R

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Cheap and easy way to deal with the gummy situation----submerge the whole thing in a bucket of mineral spirits, kerosene, or whatever, and pull the rope a few times. That will cut the old grease and leave a thinner residue to continue lubricating it. Let it drain off the excess. There you just saved tearing it apart.
 

F_R

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Showing a couple of pictures. One shows the pin that prevents cutting the knot off. These are a 3hp Gale Buccaneer motor
 

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LouB64

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My unit look exactly like the 2nd photo but without the pin. I see what you mean on the 1st photo with the cotter pin inside the whole to keep it from spinning. When I order a replacement pull cord (from Marine Engine) should I be looking for one that has that pin? or is that something that got machined on at a later time? Thanks!
 

F_R

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I guess all I did was confuse you (or myself). I mentioned earlier that later production motors had a pin to prevent cutting the knot off. The picture shows that pin, just so you know what I was referring to. Your 1955 won't have that pin.

So, all you will be ordering is a piece of hard braid nylon rope of the correct diameter and length. I don't know those specs offhand, but the information is easy to find.
 

F_R

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The rope is part number 772578, 7/32" diameter, cut to 69-3/4" long. Your dealer will be cutting it off of a big spool.

EDIT: Buy it here at the store you are standing in, iboats.
 
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LouB64

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Just an Update: I ran into a curveball. This is what I found: While looking over the pull start housing I found a few issues. 1- which seems to be the main one is .. on the neck of the housing just beneath the pull cord and before the cord goes into the pully system there is a hole in the housing about 1/4 ish long. This was caused by the metal gauge cord being pulled thru the system. Over time the wire has ripped a hole in the housing. This is also why my wire pull cord is fraying. So if I replaced the wire with rope it will only cause the rope to break off much sooner. It seems I'm better off leaving the wire cord in place. I need a way to seal the hole if possible. If it I don't seal it the hole will only get bigger over time. Is that housing part available anyplace online? I would re-use the rest of the unit. 2- There seems to be a blemish (small crack) on the top of the housing next to the center. Maybe I can just put some epoxy or glue over it. 3- on one of the three legs that secure the housing to the flywheel it looks like there is a crack in the housing. Odd though is that it looks semetrical (roundish) in appearance. Maybe this is nothing as well and maybe by I can just put some glue over that.

Any suggestions on a replacement housing for the pull cord system? Thanks Lou
 

Chinewalker

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I had a housing many years ago with that same issue - the cable cut into the housing. I epoxied an aluminum patch over it on the inside, so that the new rope would rub against the patch. The aluminum was out of a thin sheet I had on hand, maybe .030" thick, and the epoxy was either JB Weld or Marine Tex - can't remember, but either should work. The motor was never a regular user, but the times I did use it, the patch held just fine. I would not keep using the cable as is, as that'll just compound the issue.
 

Chinewalker

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As for the crack in the housing, it may just be a casting flaw. Not uncommon. Easies way to tell is to flex the leg and see if the crack opens up or moves.
 

F_R

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Your best bet is go to the Antique Outboard Club's website www.aomci.org and place a want ad on their classified ads pages. Part number for just the housing is 376384. Better yet, see if someone has a complete starter. The ad is free.

Other option is call iboats and see if they can get you a new housing from their OEM associate.

Finally, check with a friendly Evinrude dealer and give him the part number. He can order it from his Vintage parts source.
 
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