1967 Evinrude 40HP Lark rebuild

farmrstan

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I have a 1967 Evinrude Lark 40 hp that was my fathers. Overall seems to be in good condition with even compression and easy turnover.
I am afraid most seals are likely shot due to many years of sitting. and carbs need rebuild.
First, is this motor worth the effort?
Next, can someone give me a good source for parts. I have a parts catalog on the way and already have the service manuals.

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
 

jimmbo

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iboats has a lot of the parts, but you will have to use the 1968 listing as that's as far back as it goes. The engines are pretty much identical from 1964 till 1970. There were a couple of changes made to the water pumps and and pipe adapters somewhere around the late 1960s, but I think complete pumps are swappable. A lot of former OMC dealers may have a surprisingly large inventory of NOS parts for these engines.
Is it worth the effort? If it just needs a few seals, pump impeller, carb rebuild and maybe magneto coils, you would have a real nice vintage outboard. The Electric Shift the lark has is nice and well engineered, and if the gear case is kept sealed and the proper oil is used, it will function for many more years. If the power head were in need of a rebuild, then it doesn't make a lot of economic sense, unless the engine has great sentimental value
 

F_R

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Do you have the whole motor? The junction box, wiring harness, and remote control are all part of the motor and it is useless without them. There is a $100 voltage regulator in the junction box and a $400 shift switch in the remote control. There is a no-longer-available (or $$$$) electric cable leading down to the lower unit that may be rotted out due to age. What I'm saying is make sure you know what you are getting into before you begin.
 

racerone

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I would not worry too much about seals at this time.------If the motor sat for many years it will likely need the ignition / magneto gone over with new coils.-----Yes you need the complete controls / wiring stuff .----Not sure but I think the 67 models did not use the junction box anymore.-----Do an overall evaluation of this motor.------They are wonderful motors that are easy to maintain.-----That is of course if you want to do that sort of thing.-------Many folks today just want that big $$$ motor where all you need to know is -----Turn the key and go.
 

F_R

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Yep, racer is correct (as usual). The '67 does not have a junction box. It's all under the hood. But you still need a working remote control.
 

farmrstan

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Dec 13, 2017
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Wow! Thanks to all! I do have all the controls and the engine is complete. Ran well about 8 years ago except for some issues with the Carb jet adjustment.
It was my father's boat and would be a good restore as well as a good fishing machine. I have always liked vintage and have good skills in motorcycle/auto mechanics. I will look at the 1968 part information.
I am open to any other suggestions and advice!!!
 

F_R

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Those motors were OMC's bread and butter back in their day. It's kind of sad to see so many of them being scrapped now.
 

racerone

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Look into that carburetor adjustment " problem " ----Often the problem is something else.-----Post compression test results on it.-----Check that spark jumps a gap of 5/16" or more.------Agreed those were excellent motors.----Simple and easy to maintain for those that are interested in that sort of thing.------Most shops refuse to work on them so they end up in the recycle bin.
 

oldboat1

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Based on some conversations with hobbyists who rebuild antique tractors, routine seal replacement appears to be high on the list (thinking back to what you suggest in your opening post). That would not be quite the same with outboards -- head gasket, maybe, and lower unit resealing (both on an as-needed basis).

For my two cents worth, I would caution against digging into systems on the assumption it's a routine step. Check the stickies on waking up an old outboard. Test compression and spark, drain and replace the gear oil, and replace the impeller -- pressure test the gear case if signs of water intrusion, and reseal as needed. There are a couple rule-of-thumb assumptions with restorers (e.g., new coils and impeller, maybe a carb kit), but general rule is to test first. Get a compression tester and an adjustable open-air spark tester to start.

Lot's of pros and hobbyists here who have done these for half a century (and more). Your parts and service manuals let you ask specific questions as you go, so you should have no problems.
 

farmrstan

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You guys are awesome! I keep you posted as I proceed...and I will start with those compression tests.
 
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