Sporgo@gmail.com
Cadet
- Joined
- Oct 7, 2017
- Messages
- 23
I recently bought a 1959 Evinrude to power my old boat. The condition when I got it was quite sad. As far as I know it spent most of its life in storage. The motor had a horribly repainted bread box style cover/cowl; the lower unit had been painted a pale sky blue at some point. Who ever did that didn't even bother to clean it first. The paint was of poor quality and flaking off all over. After a full examination I considered putting it back on craigslist.
I ran into a bit of a problem with the bread box cowl as I posted about before; it was too large and hit the sides of my motor well limiting maneuverability. To remedy this I converted the motor back to the older style (1958 and older) hood. I will detail how I did this as best I can below. My searches turned up no trace of anyone else who had done it or posted about it. I believe others may find this information useful. Not only did this solve my clearance issue I think the older hood is much more aesthetic.
First pic of the motor mostly as found with broken handle and horrible paint. Test fitting the new cowl sourced from ebay.Old pan discarded in background.
Fitting the lower cowl pan and marking the two bolt holes on the right for later drilling. You must also drill a hole under the carb area, I had to measure the location for that hole with a caliper as there is no easy way to mark it. I circled areas that I had to grind back with a dremel to make the lower pan fit around the power head mounting. I do not know if grinding would be necessary on all pans, this one possibly came from a smaller engine.
Pic of the two holes I drilled through the midsection on the cylinder head end.
This is where the bolt hole for the carb end must be located. There are actually two existing bolt holes below this area but I opted to only use one. These two bolts holes had a bracket attached to them that is no longer needed with this conversion.
Showing all three mounting points that I used to hold on my lower pan. The one in the bottom left of this picture must be low profile otherwise it may interfere with the power head when reinstalling.
Now as others pointed out to me the 1959 and later motors are missing all but one of the hard points used to mount the earlier metal covers. To get past this I fabricated two simple aluminum brackets. The one towards the carb end is a mounted to the only remaining hard point. I attached it using stainless 1/4x20 bolts and a rubber bushing from a random valve cover set that I had lying about. I did not go out of my way to make them pretty.
The other bracket towards the cylinder end. This is simply a piece of flat aluminum bar bent to the required angle. Rubber bushings were used on both ends. It is bolted to the upper left bolt of the lower side cover. As you can see it just clears my fuel pump setup.
View from the cylinder head with the hood installed. You have to use a very long bolt in this location. The rear of the hood where this bolt passes through is quite thick.
Final overall look after paint. I plan on building one more bracket for the port side eventually. I also need new badges as mine self destructed when I tried to remove them. The paint is Duplicolor Bahama Blue and Universal White which are both lacquers. Sealed with Spraymaxx 2k glamour clear.
More to be added...
I ran into a bit of a problem with the bread box cowl as I posted about before; it was too large and hit the sides of my motor well limiting maneuverability. To remedy this I converted the motor back to the older style (1958 and older) hood. I will detail how I did this as best I can below. My searches turned up no trace of anyone else who had done it or posted about it. I believe others may find this information useful. Not only did this solve my clearance issue I think the older hood is much more aesthetic.
First pic of the motor mostly as found with broken handle and horrible paint. Test fitting the new cowl sourced from ebay.Old pan discarded in background.
Fitting the lower cowl pan and marking the two bolt holes on the right for later drilling. You must also drill a hole under the carb area, I had to measure the location for that hole with a caliper as there is no easy way to mark it. I circled areas that I had to grind back with a dremel to make the lower pan fit around the power head mounting. I do not know if grinding would be necessary on all pans, this one possibly came from a smaller engine.
Pic of the two holes I drilled through the midsection on the cylinder head end.
This is where the bolt hole for the carb end must be located. There are actually two existing bolt holes below this area but I opted to only use one. These two bolts holes had a bracket attached to them that is no longer needed with this conversion.
Showing all three mounting points that I used to hold on my lower pan. The one in the bottom left of this picture must be low profile otherwise it may interfere with the power head when reinstalling.
Now as others pointed out to me the 1959 and later motors are missing all but one of the hard points used to mount the earlier metal covers. To get past this I fabricated two simple aluminum brackets. The one towards the carb end is a mounted to the only remaining hard point. I attached it using stainless 1/4x20 bolts and a rubber bushing from a random valve cover set that I had lying about. I did not go out of my way to make them pretty.
The other bracket towards the cylinder end. This is simply a piece of flat aluminum bar bent to the required angle. Rubber bushings were used on both ends. It is bolted to the upper left bolt of the lower side cover. As you can see it just clears my fuel pump setup.
View from the cylinder head with the hood installed. You have to use a very long bolt in this location. The rear of the hood where this bolt passes through is quite thick.
Final overall look after paint. I plan on building one more bracket for the port side eventually. I also need new badges as mine self destructed when I tried to remove them. The paint is Duplicolor Bahama Blue and Universal White which are both lacquers. Sealed with Spraymaxx 2k glamour clear.
More to be added...
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