Started on the Lark

[jimmbo]

Keep the old oil in the cans. Newer TCW-3 oil are superior and is also formulated for use with the bad smelling Cologne that is called modern Gasoline.

The ?L? in the model number probably means ?long shaft? model

 

[Cadillac-ack-ack]

Keep the old oil in the cans. Newer TCW-3 oil are superior and is also formulated for use with the bad smelling Cologne that is called modern Gasoline.

The ?L? in the model number probably means ?long shaft? model

I know I am a long way off from this point both with the engine itself and the fact that it's snowing right now and the season is NOT "just around the corner". Also I bet this question has been answered before. This 1962 motor was originally spec'd for needing a 25:1 mix, but with TCW-3 is 50:1 what I'll be using. And are all TCW-3's created the same?

 

[Willyclay]

And are all TCW-3's created the same?

Yes, no, maybe! Some members claim synthetic versions produce less smoke. Search for the forum for oil threads. Lots of opinions and even a few facts.

 

[Cadillac-ack-ack]

Yes, no, maybe! Some members claim synthetic versions produce less smoke. Search for the forum for oil threads. Lots of opinions and even a few facts.

I'll do that. You know as soon as I pushed the "post reply" button I wondered if 'oil threads' were just as poisonous here as they are in the British car and motorcycle forums I subscribe to.

 

[jimmbo]

The original oil spec for that engine was. "We recommend using a reputable outboard motor oil or a regular SAE 30 grade automotive engine motor. Do not use low price third grade (ML light duty) oils or multiple viscosity oils such as SAE 10W-30." @24:1. There weren't any TCW oils in 1962. In 1964 OMC across the line changed the spec to 50:1 with the same wording. The earliest reference I could find to any Evinrude/Johnson/OMC oils is in 1968. The TCW cert must have happen shortly after.
All the bearings and clearances are the same for the 1962, 1963, and later engines. In 1964 they did start Tin Plating the pistons, to help the break in. The plating was there to rub off and fill the crosshatch hone scratches, but the oil ratio during the break in period(10 hours) was done with 24:1. Around 1970, OMC issued a bulletin stating all their engine could run their oils at 50:1. OMC claimed they had major drop in warranty claims from preignition after the switch to 50:1
I know my dad ran his 57 35hp and 63 40hp for years at 50:1 with the OMC oils and never had any issues

 

[Cadillac-ack-ack]

Thanks jimmbo, that goes along with what I remember about the conversation my dad had with the marina owner. I have no idea what dad used though, other than the Valvoline and I'm pretty sure we just dumped the whole quart in for an empty 6 gallon tank. Occasionally we did purchase pre-mix from the marina and that might have been the OMC oil and at 50:1. I wonder if my NOS pistons are tin plated. They don't really look any different than any other cast aluminum piston I've seen. Maybe a little duller is all. And that could just be from the years spent on the shelf in an old cardboard box.

 

[Cadillac-ack-ack]

Having a bit of a problem getting the flywheel off. I have the correct type of puller but she just won't budge. The book just says to tighten up the puller until the taper breaks free but I'm a bit concerned that the puller bolts will start to pull the threads out of the flywheel being that they are just 1/4-20. I guess if that should happen I could drill and tap the holes to 5/16-18. Can anyone see an issue with using an impact on the puller? Maybe on a lesser number than full tilt boogie?

 

[racerone]

With the factory puller it takes a hefty bump from a 16 ounce ballpeen hammer on the pusher bolt.

 

[oldboat1]

Make sure the loosened flywheel nut is left on the shaft a couple of turns to control the flywheel when it breaks loose. Tighten the puller bolt by hand with a box or crescent wrench, and smack it as described. Repeat if needed. Don't use the impact wrench.

 

[Cadillac-ack-ack]

With the factory puller it takes a hefty bump from a 16 ounce ballpeen hammer on the pusher bolt.

Now I am at odds. The Seloc manual specifically states "DO NOT strike the puller center bolt with a hammer in an attempt to dislodge the flywheel. Such action could seriously damage the lower seal and/or lower bearing" Hitting the puller bolt is exactly what I would have done had I not read this warning. How would one ever know if the seal or bearing was damaged until out on the lake? And can't believe that replacing them would be part of a routine tune-up.

 

[racerone]

Hit it with a hammer !!------Done this prodedure for about 50 years , on many motors too.-----Never any damage !

 

[Cadillac-ack-ack]

Hit it with a hammer !!------Done this prodedure for about 50 years , on many motors too.-----Never any damage !

As in any forum it's important to glean the BS from good advice and after a while you know who to listen to and who is just blabbing. Reading your posts give me the impression you're one of the former. Reading your post #7 from this morning in the thread about the electric shift you say, "Ask before you act. Mistakes can be expensive", this is exactly why I did not just want to just whack the puller bolt as a matter of course. Thanks. - Pete

 

[racerone]

I can rebuild / repair / refurbish your motor without a glance at a manual.-----Powerhead or bottom end electric shift or manual !-------Have all the parts on hand new and used except for a few gaskets.

 

[F_R]

Now I am at odds. The Seloc manual specifically states "DO NOT strike the puller center bolt with a hammer in an attempt to dislodge the flywheel. Such action could seriously damage the lower seal and/or lower bearing" Hitting the puller bolt is exactly what I would have done had I not read this warning. How would one ever know if the seal or bearing was damaged until out on the lake? And can't believe that replacing them would be part of a routine tune-up.

Sometimes the Seloc manuals contain some BS and Old Wives' Tales. Lift/pry the flywheel upwards enough to move the shaft within the bearings. It will not damage anything. Like racer, I've been doing it for many moons. Just pulled one today, in fact. Put away that sledge hammer and crowbar. Stuff like that is what damages parts.

 

[Cadillac-ack-ack]

Did not want you folks to think I've abandoned the motor project or simply stopped commenting back. A smallish house plumbing project that turned into one of those "every tool you own spread out on the basement floor" kind of nightmare took my attention from the Lark. All I've managed to do is get 3 grade 8 1/4-20 bolts for the flywheel puller but no attempt to pull yet, perhaps tomorrow. I'll keep you posted.

 

[jimmbo]

The link below will get you to the non-factory Clymer service manual for 1956-1963 Evinrude Big Twins and Larks. Long before the internet, I used this manual for my first outboard motor overhaul of a 1959 Johnson 35HP which is almost identical to your Lark. It served me well. Good luck with yours!

http://www.fiberglassics.com/library...service002.pdf

That's not a Clymer manual, that manual was published by Intertec Publishing. It is one of the best non-factory manuals

 

[Joe Reeves]

Ack-Ack....... In some areas, it's a good idea to hesitate as per your statement (and I quote) "this is exactly why I did not just want to just whack the puller bolt as a matter of course."....

I've seen the reasoning for that statement in various manuals also, however smacking the top of that puller with the biggest hammer in your tool box is normally the only action that is going to break the flywheel taper away from the crankshaft... and you can take it from one (or more) who has been down that road a few hundred times or so.

Also, the 40hp is one among a few other models that is notorious (usually) in having the demon from Hell associated with it that is assigned to associate having that flywheel practically welded to the crankshaft... other models include the 28hp and 33hp models that incorporate the 311356 crankshaft. A few of these have necessitated the old wives tale of prying up the flywheel slightly to relieve the slight play available... actually reliving that play allows the flywheel/crankshaft a bit more room to separate from the puller (Or Something!)... it does make a difference. That slight bit of prying has saved the day for me a few times.

So... first shot is to tighten the puller as much as possible. If that doesn't have the flywheel breaking free... second shot is to re-tighten and get out the big hammer... third shot is the big hammer and the pry-bar, large screwdriver, whatever... fourth shot would be to excessively tighten the puller and spray penetrating oil on the crankshaft top area and wait, and wait and wait!... the fifth and final shot is to remove the power-head and make a trip to a reliable machine shop.... and you polish off a six pack!

Whatever you do, don't be tempted to apply heat to it as that will cause warpage of the flywheel quite quickly.

 

[F_R]

I don't know why people hesitate to lift the flywheel. That is half the secret to success. You raise the flywheel (and crankshaft) within the bearings. Then when you give the center puller bolt a whack, the flywheel stays in mid-air for a micro second (laws of inertia), and you actually knock the crankshaft downward and out of it. If one whack doesn't do it, do it again. I have never, in all my years, used a hammer larger than 16oz. In most cases, a 12oz is what I use. It is the shock that does it, not the mortal bash.

 

[jimmbo]

The books probably say not to use a hammer so as to avoid a liability suit from someone who hammers the engine into the ground/concrete/asphalt and/or did some damage.
Myself, I get concerned whenever I see people waving torches around to break things free.

 

[Cadillac-ack-ack]

I don't know why people hesitate to lift the flywheel. That is half the secret to success. You raise the flywheel (and crankshaft) within the bearings. Then when you give the center puller bolt a whack, the flywheel stays in mid-air for a micro second (laws of inertia), and you actually knock the crankshaft downward and out of it. If one whack doesn't do it, do it again. I have never, in all my years, used a hammer larger than 16oz. In most cases, a 12oz is what I use. It is the shock that does it, not the mortal bash.

Got it, and this is how I did it. Since the generator was already off I used a long pry-bar on top of the generator bracket and under the ring gear. Very, very little pressure was needed to take up the crankshaft end- play and with a tight puller, a few good whacks broke the taper. I used some penetrating oil too. I never did feel even a hint of movement in the pry-bar handle when hitting the puller center bolt so I'm pretty sure the crank was not getting slammed down on the seal and bearings. Thanks, -Pete