1976 Evinrude 15HP Dies.

[Stumpalump]

Gents,
I'm resurrecting a 15604R 1976 Evinrude 15hp that sat for 9 years. I replaced the starter rope, water pump, upper ignition coil and cleaned the carb. It starts, runs and idles great but after 2 minuets it dies. Bulb stays hard and pumping makes no difference. It starts right back up and runs for a minuet and slowly dies. It restarts a few times but keeps dieing until it won't start. I filed and gaped the points and nothing improved. I did notice the rubber tops on the condensers were degraded. I'll order condensers for now but am I on the right track? Can anything else cause this dieing problem? It's very consistent. Thanks for any advise on this old gem!

 

[tomhath]

Have you checked for a spark after it stalls? Kinda sounds more like a restriction in the fuel somewhere though, or maybe flooding.

 

[racerone]

Is it in fact running on both cylinders ?

 

[Stumpalump]

It was running on one until I changed a coil. I never checked spark after it died because it either starts right back up or I'm too wore out to pull it with one hand while holding a plug. I need a tester... It could be fuel but the bulb stays hard when it dies and pumping does not help it. Could a bad pump cause the bulb to stay hard?

 

[Crosbyman]

fire fuel oxygen are required assuming compression is ok you need to find the missing component

oxygen well that should be ok lots of that around so work on sparks and fuel

Sparks are easy enough to check when it dies confirm it good or not

​fuel now there is a sneaky one....recheck that carb from a-z including the clip on the inlet needle and float right side up

clean all passage and air blow all passage .... use canned air if you dont have a compressor ( Dollar stores sell canned air for $3-$4)

check fuel delivery from the pump to the carb inlet by pulling the fuel line at the carb inlet

​check or swap you fuel line in case of plugged hose on the engine side of the hand pump (it would stay hard with no or little fuel flow to the carb)

btw your air vent is open right !

 

[Stumpalump]

fire fuel oxygen are required assuming compression is ok you need to find the missing component

oxygen well that should be ok lots of that around so work on sparks and fuel

Sparks are easy enough to check when it dies confirm it good or not

​fuel now there is a sneaky one....recheck that carb from a-z including the clip on the inlet needle and float right side up

clean all passage and air blow all passage .... use canned air if you dont have a compressor ( Dollar stores sell canned air for $3-$4)

check fuel delivery from the pump to the carb inlet by pulling the fuel line at the carb inlet

​check or swap you fuel line in case of plugged hose on the engine side of the hand pump (it would stay hard with no or little fuel flow to the carb)

btw your air vent is open right !

Tank is all good and works on another motor. Can you get the float in upside down? I put it back the way it was but that does not mean the farmer I bought it from did not get it twisted. It ran and died like this before and after I cleaned it. Float sat level so I assumed it was good....idk

 

[Crosbyman]

some floats can be installed upside down ...

the pivot tab goes UNDER the the float and leveled with e carb body


do perform a blow test on the carb to check out he carb inlet needle operation

air goes in right side up air is blocked when the carb is held upside down

 

[Stumpalump]

I put in the new condensers that had the corroded bubbled tops and it popped to life and ran better than ever but the problem continued. The fuel pump trickled so I pulled it apart and cleaned it. The diaphragms were hard and bagged out so I replaced the pump. That fixed it. So to recap fixing up a motor that probably quit and then sat for years. It had one bad coil, bad condensers and bad fuel pump. Water pump, carb clean and points file and reset were good measure. Starts and runs like new! Thanks for the help!

 

[oldboat1]

+1 on the fuel pump diaphragm -- "hard and bagged out" is a good description. Big difference compared to a fresh, flexible one.

 

[Stumpalump]

+1 on the fuel pump diaphragm -- "hard and bagged out" is a good description. Big difference compared to a fresh, flexible one.

They say you can't rebuild them and can't get parts for them. It was a little touchy to pull apart but if I could have gotten a diaphragm kit that would have been better than a complete $75 pump. Can you get just diaphragms that will fit the pumps?

 

[racerone]

Yes the diaphragm is available , check with a dealer.--------Note ---it is not shown for all years and models.----just keep looking and you will even see it as a spare part on a 1998 model 90 / 115 hp