I built a kill switch from my remote control - Johnson 90 hp 2 stroke

[ib18]

I built a kill switch from my remote control - Johnson 90 hp 2 stroke BUT I killed my motor???? Please HELP! thanks.
My remote control never came with a safety switch, so I have always wanted to build one. So, I extended the black yellow wire from the remote control. I connected it to the OFF terminal on my ON-OFF toggle switch, and connected the metal cover of the remote control (ground) to the ON terminal on my toggle switch. I started my motor with only 2 cranks, so I proceeded to FLIP the switch from OFF to ON position to short the circuit to kill the motor. YES, the motor did shut off immediately BUT when I tried to start the motor again. The starter just no click sound. Dead silent from the starting motor. Did I kill my starting motor???

Please HELP! I will show the video shortly.

 

[ib18]

here is the video - please HELP!!!!

 

[ib18]

SO, I don't have Part # 77, 78 and 79 and that's why I built a KILL Switch using ON-OFF toggle switch

 

[ib18]

No Title

key switch diagram for the Black/Yellow to my OFF-terminal

 

[flyingscott]

Pretty sure you killed the fuse for the motor need to replace that. Double check your wiring and ground.

 

[ib18]

Pretty sure you killed the fuse for the motor need to replace that. Double check your wiring and ground.

Thats what I thought, but the 20 amp fuse was NOT broken. So, I will check my solenoid and starter tomorrow. Bummer. I just hope I didn't kill the power pack or the starter, because that would be very expensive to replace.

 

[Joe Reeves]

I enlarged your wiring diagram and check the kill circuit route.... looks good to me.

It sounds like you still had the throttle handle in gear... OR... the neutral safety switch needs a slight adjustment ie loosen the retaining screws and push it somewhat closer to the actuating cam, tighten screws. Let me know what you find.

 

[ib18]

I enlarged your wiring diagram and check the kill circuit route.... looks good to me.

It sounds like you still had the throttle handle in gear... OR... the neutral safety switch needs a slight adjustment ie loosen the retaining screws and push it somewhat closer to the actuating cam, tighten screws. Let me know what you find.

I know it was supposed to work, so NOT sure WHY it blew my starting solenoid or it blew my starting motor? No clicking sound from starting solenoid nor from starter. Bummer Bummer Bummer - very frustrated with this easy DIY project.
Hopefully when I am done, I will have a safe device on my boat to ease my growing DIY pain - LOL

 

[ib18]

No Title

here is another wiring diagram picture and it will cost me more than $30+ to fix it NOW - LOL

 

[oldboat1]

Think Joe R.'s suggestion is good -- Did you try jiggling the remote lever back and forth a little while turning the key switch.

I'm confused about the purpose of your toggle kill switch, though, if you have a working key switch. You are replacing the emergency kill switch, I take it -- the one with the clip and lanyard. I'm not sure why you are doing that.

BTW, the motor should crank without hesitating, when it cranks -- sounds in your clip like there is a dirty connection somewhere, a weak battery, maybe an issue with starter brushes or the keyswitch. I would guess either the battery or a dirty connection -- would check that first, anyway.

 

[ib18]

Think Joe R.'s suggestion is good -- Did you try jiggling the remote lever back and forth a little while turning the key switch.

I'm confused about the purpose of your toggle kill switch, though, if you have a working key switch. You are replacing the emergency kill switch, I take it -- the one with the clip and lanyard. I'm not sure why you are doing that.

BTW, the motor should crank without hesitating, when it cranks -- sounds in your clip like there is a dirty connection somewhere, a weak battery, maybe an issue with starter brushes or the keyswitch. I would guess either the battery or dirty a connection -- would check that first, anyway.

WOW! Thanks for articulating and repeating Joe R's suggestion. Ok, I have to read both your suggestions more than a few times to understand what you guys were saying. I wasn't clear what Joe was saying before you repeated it. Now, I get it.

NO I didn't try wiggling any of the neutral safety switch nor the high throttle lever but you both could be RIGHT. I will try those things tomorrow after work. Whew!!! hopefully it was just those minor issues inside the CONTROL BOX instead of shorting my starting solenoid or starter or power pack.

Yes, I do have a working KEY switch now (it wasn't working ONCE before and I had to unplug the external gas tank and waited until the motor ran the gas out in the fuel line and carb), but it will not work as a KILL SWITCH. Yes, I could spend another $30 plus dollars to buy the RIGHT parts and get it over with. But, I was just curious to see whether my little DIY experiment will WORK. If it does work, then I will mount the toggle switch right underneath my CONTROL box with a lanyard so I can attach to myself in case I get thrown overboard when boat hit a submerged log accidentally.

 

[Joe Reeves]

I'm glad you re-read what I had to say.... I really hate to be ignored.

Whether it is your problem or not..... what you are explaining is a improperly adjusted Neutral Safety Switch.

 

[oldboat1]

Another idea for a redundant kill or shut-off switch -- wire the two posts of a push button switch to the M terminals on the key switch (piggy back existing wiring). If the switch fails -- and if the problem is the switch -- you should be able to shut off the engine with the button.

 

[heypawpaw]

Bought two aftermarket kill switches (combination push button kill and safety lanyard) online for about $5 each for older 20 hp Johnsons.

 

[Crosbyman]

did I miss something... why not take out all your "kill wiring" put everything back as it was before doomsday and try your engine

​step one.... get that selenoid to click !

 

[ib18]

Bought two aftermarket kill switches (combination push button kill and safety lanyard) online for about $5 each for older 20 hp Johnsons.

Thanks and good to know. I think you still need to connect the positive and negative of the lanyard to somewhere on the outboard. can you show some pictures please?

 

[ib18]

did I miss something... why not take out all your "kill wiring" put everything back as it was before doomsday and try your engine

​step one.... get that selenoid to click !

That is precisely I will do today after work. Take apart the remote control and examine the key switch terminals and the neutral safety switch.

 

[ib18]

No Title

so I found my solenoid negative/ground connection was loosely tied to the engine body!!!! I totally forgot to tighten it up after I installed my carburetors. I try to restart the motor but still hear no sound.
I will use voltage meter to test it tomorrow after work to make sure solenoid is getting 12 volts to troubleshoot the remote control box, solenoid and starter.

 

[heypawpaw]

I started with a toggle for kill switch but decided to go to safety kill switch because my engine will start in gear. On the 1966 20 hp switch connected to two black wires from magneto. Your application will be different probably yellow and black wires but I'm not sure. This will not solve your issue starting your engine but will be safer than a toggle switch.

 

[racerone]

????----A kill switch is for stopping the motor in an emergency and has nothing to do with the starter motor or the solenoid !!!