56 Johnson Javelin one cylinder not working

[KathyD19]

I spent the summer working on this motor, if anyone has followed my saga of the starter solenoid and rewiring process, I finally got it to start and run. But the motor wouldn't run full power when I lake tested it and it sounded noisier and just "off" compared to how it used to run. WillyClay suggested it sounded like it might not be running on both cylinders so today I barrel tested it and when I pulled the top cylinder plug, it died. Even after replacing the lower cylinder plug with another brand new one, the lower cylinder isn't firing. This is all new territory for me so advise me as is you're talking to a 10 year old, please.

If I start with a compression test, do I have to have it in the barrel to do that? Since I would have the spark plugs out and the kill switch engaged and it wouldn't be starting I didn't know if it was necessary to have to have the motor submerged. I have never replaced any of the magneto stuff like points, coils, condensers etc and I know I probably will have to do that simply due to the age of the motor. I HAVE replaced the spark plug boots about 4 years ago. This motor has always run like a beast so the lower cylinder not working is something new.

Also I have not done anything to the carb since acquiring this motor 5 years ago. I've fixed some LawnBoy mower carburetors before so I'm not unfamiliar with the workings of such. Just can't see how to remove the carb on this; I imagine that flywheel is going to have to come off at some point.

Ideas and input welcome.

 

[jbuote]

Hey Kathy!
​Sorry to hear a cylinder is down...
​
​No, you don't have to have it in the barrel to do a compression test. Which by the way, is the right place to start really..
​I personally like to run my muffs on mine when cranking at all, just to keep the impellor wet, and probably a good idea for you as well, but it's not an absolute necessity, if it's not going to run, as far as I know... (still pretty new though, so keep that in mind.. lol)

​One thing to look for, is the coils.. Are they cracked at all? If so, then it needs replacing..
​I don't have points and condensers on mine, so can't advise there.. lol

​Not much, but hope it helps a little anyway...

 

[RCO]

As long as the compression is OK (check to verify), you almost definitely need to service the magneto. Take of the recoil starter and the access plate for the points. The coils if original will be cracked, or if they are replacements are probably fine. I would just replace the points and condensers with BRP parts as long as the coils aren't cracked. You could just clean and adjust the points to .020, I personally like to replace them since they are cheap.

 

[KathyD19]

Thanks! Jbuote, mine is such an old motor it doesn't accept muffs, it has to be submerged in a barrel. RCO, I am all for replacing the parts as long as they are cheap and it's smart to do so if it's already apart anyhow. I usually use Sierra or OEM parts. Do you know part #'s?

 

[F_R]

OEM points are 580148, condenser is 580321. Takes two of each.

If you feel you must remove the carburetor, the time to do it is while the flywheel is off. But that is NOT why it is running on one cylinder!

 

[KathyD19]

F-R, do you agree that it's probably to do with the magneto? Since I know the carb hasn't been cleaned or anything since I've owned the motor (five years) do you think it would be wise to remove it and do a carb kit on it just to be preventive? (if so do you know the part # for a carb kit for this?)

 

[HighTrim]

Kathy,

As Frank stated, your carb is not the problem.

If I was a gambling man, you simply need to clean/adjust the points. It happens. Pull off the recoil (easy), then the inspection cover on the flywheel. You will quickly know if the coils are original. They will be all cracked and falling apart! If they look like they have been replaced, Im sure a quick clean/set of the points will have you back on the water.

 

[KathyD19]

Got it! I have two of each points and condensers sitting in my "shopping cart" right now. I'm assuming from pictures I've seen that the coils are a different thing than the points and condensers so if I need to replace the coils as well, do you happen to have the part number for them? If they're inexpensive I might as well just replace all three things under that flywheel while it's off. (also assuming I need two of the coils too, right?) Forgive my questions if they seem dense...it's been a long day.

 

[jbuote]

Hey Kathy...

​Yes, the coil is different..
​I "Think" the one you might need is here: (Sierra model. There is also a CDI model.)
http://www.iboats.com/mall/partfind...d_poid=109172&gd_row=122&session_id=564764004

​Can someone confirm that?

I went to this page:
http://www.iboats.com/Johnson-Ignition-Coils/dm/view_id.271400

​And scrolled down to the 30 hp line for 1956 and then the part numbers were listed..

​In any event, you can see what the coil would look like anyway...

I know it's not much help, but for what it's worth.. LOL

 

[HighTrim]

18-5181 is the correct Sierra part number. There are also German Prufrex coils which are a bit better, fit wise. Wait to see if you need them though before buying.

 

[Chinewalker]

Agreed - check the coils first. In my experience, if the coils LOOK good, they probably are. You'll know if they LOOK bad, too, as they'll be REALLY bad. Very rarely have I had an issue with a coil that looked intact and hadn't been physically damaged in some way.

Compression check, too. May be as simple as a blown head gasket, which can mimic an ignition issue by causing the motor to run on one cylinder. May be apparent if one of the plugs has water droplets beaded up on the tip.

 

[F_R]

No Title

Cracked coils. If they are original, they will look similar to this. Take a peek at them through the hole in the flywheel before buying new ones. If it were me, I'd buy the OEM coils, part number 580477, if you need them. iboats has them. Sierra has had problems with theirs lately. Maybe they have it fixed, I don't know.

 

[KathyD19]

Oh wow, F_R! Those look like well baked ham! lol

 

[KathyD19]

Sorry for the delay, my friends. Work and family concerns are keeping me from doing anything with the motor right now. But as soon as I can free up some time I'll post with what progress I make!

 

[KathyD19]

I had time to work on the motor today. I checked the compression on both cylinders and they are both around 125 psi. I inspected the boot for the spark plug on the lower cylinder (which is the one not running) and the terminal inside seems a little corroded. I couldn't find anywhere local that has replacement boots/terminals so I'll have to order them. Does it matter if it's the coil/spring type of terminal versus the "metal sleeve" type? Also I pulled off the recoil starter and still can't see anything regarding the magneto area unless I pull the flywheel. I was kinda wanting to wait to do that until I see if replacing the spark boot helps. If/when I pull the flywheel, do I have to use the 3 screw puller or can I use a claw style one? I've heard they can be kind of "explosive" when they are freed up and pop off hard. Any hints at making that easier? I'm going to attach a couple pictures here: one of the terminal end with the boot removed, one of flywheel exposed and one with an arrow pointing to a lever and spring that was attached to the recoil starter...just wondering what that part is/does? Thank you everyone!

 

[KathyD19]

No Title

 

[jimmbo]

You need a new plug wire, or if only the end is all cracked, perhaps a new terminal end could be fitted.

Before you go pulling off the flywheel, the access port for the points and coil inspection is plainly visible. However if you are going to replace the plug wire, the flywheel has to come off. A 3 bolt steering wheel type puller will work, using the 3 bolt holes surrounding the flywheel nut that hold the starter pawl catcher

The thing you have an arrow pointing to is the starter interlock, prevents the recoil rope from being pulled when, when the throttle is too advanced

Link to service manual
http://www.fiberglassics.com/library/images/a/a7/Evinrudeservice002.pdf

 

[flyingscott]

Yes you need new spark plug wires usually auto parts stores can make them for you. To pull the flywheel loosen the nut and turn it until the top of the nut is even with the top pf the threads on the crank. Use the 3 bolt puller with grade 8 bolts and attach it now turn the puller bolt as tight as you can DO NOT USE AN IMPACT ON IT. When the bolt is as tight as you can get it give it a couple of whacks with a carpenters hammer like driving a nail. If it doesn't come off tighten the bolt some more and whack it again repeat as necessary. You may need a tool to hold the flywheel available at most auto stores and do not put car wires on it. The wires need to be braided wire core.

 

[KathyD19]

No Title

Jimmbo, you said " the access port for the points and coil inspection is plainly visible" but I guess I'm bleary eyed tonight because I can't see any access port. Here's a pic of the top of the flywheel. Where would I find the access port so I can visually inspect?

 

[KathyD19]

FlyingScott... my local auto parts stores are stocked with young kids that don't seem to know much. You said not to use "car wires, the wires need to be braided wire core". Would all marine spark plug wires be braided wire core? How do I know that's what I'm purchasing? I was thinking of only repairing the terminal end that goes to the spark plug and see if that solves the problem. But if not, and I end up removing the flywheel anyhow, I will just replace the entire spark wire, end to end. I bought a strap wrench to hold the flywheel, is that the tool you were referring to? I'm going to have to pick up the #8 bolt fly wheel puller at the Harbor Freight in the next town bigger than my spot-in-the-road town.