Welcome Guest - Sign Up today
Welcome Guest - Sign Up today
Store Links Mobile - Shop Now

Announcement

Collapse

Help Tip: If you have a question that has not been answered to your satisfaction in the archives, it is always best to start a new thread of your own. By starting your own thread, you will receive the maximum number of views by forum members.

Below are some additional forum policies in hopes of all iboats members will follow, Thank you.

1. Please do not reply to old topics or hijack existing topics. Old topics of a technical nature are like a library book, Please do not write in them.

2. Old topics should be considered archives and used for reference only. Please do not reply to them.

3. Do not take over someone elseís topic (aka hijack) with your own question, even if it is similar. If you have a question that has not been covered to your satisfaction in the archives, it is always best to start a new topic of your own.

4. If you have a question for the original poster (OP) and the topic is over 30 days old, send the OP a PM, he may not even visit the forums any longer, or may not notice your question in the old topic.

5. By starting your own topic, you will receive the maximum number of views by forum helpers that may not even notice your question when itís posted at the end of someone elseís topic. And those answers will be specific to your particular issue.

6. Please do not post to topics that have been inactive for more than 3 months unless you are the original poster. We have very active forums and any topic that remains inactive for that long should be considered "dead". It is especially confusing when there is an entirely new question posted to an old topic.

7. Posting at the end of any topic is considered to be hijacking the original posters topic which in turn subjects the topic to be closed if it continues to happen thus not making it fair to the original poster in the future had for some reason he/she needed to return for additional information or provide an update of the problem solved which is always welcomed within a reasonable amount of time frame.

8. Please note that you should see a red banner pop up near the bottom of each inactive topic asking you not to reply to old topics. The Red banner will read: Please note this topic has been inactive for 90 days. For the best results, please start a new topic.

Thank you all in advance for doing your part in helping iboats run a smooth ship.

Additional forum rules linked below.
http://forums.iboats.com/forum-rules-guidelines-405/
See more
See less

1996 88 SPL OVERHEAT

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • 1996 88 SPL OVERHEAT

    Over heat alarm going off at cruising speed but stops at lower rpm. From research I'm thinking possibly thermostats but more likely flow deflectors in heads. A couple questions: Can thermostat housing be removed without removing power head? To clean out water jackets in heads and replace deflectors do I access through exhaust cover or do heads need to be removed?

  • #2
    It's a hassle but you change the thermostats without removing stuff.

    ​You need to remove the heads to change the deflectors.

    Comment


    • #3
      If the water pump has been serviced/maintained (fresh impeller), check the actual head temps right after a run.

      Comment


      • #4
        Water pump replaced two years ago while lower unit was off for shift rod o ring replacement. Not a lot of hours on water pump since replacement. Just removed both hoses connecting heads to thermostats and ran engine on hose muffs and both sides have equal flow. If I hold my finger on one side the flow increases on the other. Now that good flow verified from both heads should I put hoses back on and run engine and check with temp gun or just move on to thermostats?

        Comment


        • #5
          Put thermostat hoses back on and ran engine on hose muffs. Used temp gun and two left heads ran 145 to 150 The top right got to 160 and right bottom to 185 when I shut it off.

          Comment


          • #6
            If a salt water motor or a river runner, best approach is to at least check/test the stats and replace if in doubt. Then pull the heads and scrape out the water passages. Check deflectors and replace if appropriate.

            If a lake runner, might the the t.stat work and see if temps return to normal -- 140/150 is OK, but on muffs probably lower (typically about 40 degree temps from the hose).

            Comment


            • #7
              Thanks oldboat1 it's a saltwater motor (southeast Louisiana). Pulled the thermostats and both are dirty and corroded right side worse than left. I'm hesitant to attempt to pull heads because of age and saltwater use. Concerned with possibly breaking head bolts.

              Comment


              • #8
                Checking in late -- maybe made a decision already. Busted bolts are a possibility. Could first do the t.stats and see what you get.

                If into the bolts, soak what you can (might only get into the bolts heads, but that's something anyway). Try rapping the bolt once or twice, then using a box wrench and tapping sideways each direction on the end of the wrench.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Installed new thermostat kit and ran engine on hose and head temps run 135 to 140. The temp in front of heads on side of engine block where pistons are is 150 to 155. Should this temp be higher than heads? Haven't had a chance to run engine in bayous yet due to high water.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Think I would try it when it's safe to do. Sounds like the temps are normal -- fronts of heads will be hotter. Check it a couple of times to see what you have.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Kind of a big sucker, but you might rig a plastic barrel for routine fresh water flushing -- something you can slip under the l.u. when the boat is on the trailer. Use a PVC inline valve or similar and mount it at the bottom of the barrel -- lets you drain it for moving out from under the motor. Water level has to be up over the water pump (use the trailer jack to raise and lower a few inches). Run the motor at idle or fast idle to keep the water in the barrel -- good idea to keep the hose running.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Thanks oldboat1 and yea its kind of big for a drum. I'll wait a couple days for water to go down to do further testing as overheat alarm occurred at cruising speeds and quieted at slow speeds so I want to check it out under those conditions before my next fishing trip.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Sign up today
                          I got a barrel for $15 locally. Cut the top off just below the rim and trimmed to fit around the transom bracket.

                          Rather than fit a valve at the bottom, I just siphon out the water. Easily done: you need a hose to fill it anyway, just put it down to the bottom of the barrel and run the water for a few seconds. Disconnect the hose from the tap and put it lower than the bottom of the barrel. The siphon will start by itself.
                          '83 Springbok 16' with Franken Xflow, in Southern Alberta. If it ain't smokin', it must be broken.
                          Avatar: "Ship Arriving Too Late to Save a Drowning Witch" - Zappa
                          My 90-140 engine up-build thread: http://tinyurl.com/hz8uv47


                          Comment

                          Working...
                          X