Cant really make out the serial number its either an E40RCCS, or E40RCDS. 2 cycle 2 cyl, has both electric and rope start. either way there is minimal difference between the two.
My question/Concern/problem is that I cannot get the motor to idle at all with the butterfly completely closed using muffs.. it will start and run for 3 seconds or so sometimes less. It will idle beautifully if I set the cam/roller to just apply slight pressure, so if its cracked at all its still 99% Closed. there is no issue with starting, starts instantly every time.
The manual and the sync and link procedure want to have the valve completely closed, and eludes to the cam not touching the roller at all at idle, but does say some models the idle adjustment screw needs to have the cam touching the roller, and to reset the Idle screw after that portion of the sync has been completed.
the manual continually refers to multiple 40hp models with slightly different internal mechanisms to control the throttle
i had assumed that I had gunk in the carbs that had gummed up the low speed circuit, so i thoroughly cleaned and rebuilt the carbs, and changed the internal fuel lines just for good measure. i did visually inspect the reeds, several times, all looked good there, all closed and clean. put it all back together, synced and linked.
timing is as follows idling around -2 tdc, throttle just cracked advances to 4TDC, max advance is 20TDC, using joe reeves method.
I'm wondering if I have a problem as it runs great otherwise.
I do seem to only get about 75% WOT response though. it seems to be getting good RPM's ( have yet to guage it) above 4000 for sure. theres just 1/4 throttle left where there is just no additional response, it doesn't bog, quit, stutter or skip, the last 1/4 throttle opening is just level. pushes my 13 ' whaler at about 30mph via GPS. max rpm is 5500
This is before i rebuilt the carbs so i'm interested to see if that has changed since the carb clean and link and synch. it also smoked a bit more than i would say is normal, which i attributed to the carbs being dirty and a strong gas mix. also i'm not sure if the two things are related, i just assumed the were
new plugs gapped at .40, Carbs rebuilt, sync and link, reset the timing, cleaned fuel filter/pump, compression is 115/112, nice snappy spark jumping 1/2 inch
all seems well, I'm just not sure if there is a problem that's being masked by having the carb open a touch at idle. i would like to have it operating at 100% and not cover up issues.
my model does have the infamous red lever for the primer, auto. (truth be told I've not messed with it under normal operation only to rope start once). I do not know if it has quick start or not, even though it does rev to about 1200 then die back to 900 or so. I attribute the quick start i experience to the primer system. and that little extra squirt of fuel with minimal air.
my thought process tells me that the throttle plate needs to have pressure because all other settings are correct?
My question/Concern/problem is that I cannot get the motor to idle at all with the butterfly completely closed using muffs.. it will start and run for 3 seconds or so sometimes less. It will idle beautifully if I set the cam/roller to just apply slight pressure, so if its cracked at all its still 99% Closed. there is no issue with starting, starts instantly every time.
The manual and the sync and link procedure want to have the valve completely closed, and eludes to the cam not touching the roller at all at idle, but does say some models the idle adjustment screw needs to have the cam touching the roller, and to reset the Idle screw after that portion of the sync has been completed.
the manual continually refers to multiple 40hp models with slightly different internal mechanisms to control the throttle
i had assumed that I had gunk in the carbs that had gummed up the low speed circuit, so i thoroughly cleaned and rebuilt the carbs, and changed the internal fuel lines just for good measure. i did visually inspect the reeds, several times, all looked good there, all closed and clean. put it all back together, synced and linked.
timing is as follows idling around -2 tdc, throttle just cracked advances to 4TDC, max advance is 20TDC, using joe reeves method.
I'm wondering if I have a problem as it runs great otherwise.
I do seem to only get about 75% WOT response though. it seems to be getting good RPM's ( have yet to guage it) above 4000 for sure. theres just 1/4 throttle left where there is just no additional response, it doesn't bog, quit, stutter or skip, the last 1/4 throttle opening is just level. pushes my 13 ' whaler at about 30mph via GPS. max rpm is 5500
This is before i rebuilt the carbs so i'm interested to see if that has changed since the carb clean and link and synch. it also smoked a bit more than i would say is normal, which i attributed to the carbs being dirty and a strong gas mix. also i'm not sure if the two things are related, i just assumed the were
new plugs gapped at .40, Carbs rebuilt, sync and link, reset the timing, cleaned fuel filter/pump, compression is 115/112, nice snappy spark jumping 1/2 inch
all seems well, I'm just not sure if there is a problem that's being masked by having the carb open a touch at idle. i would like to have it operating at 100% and not cover up issues.
my model does have the infamous red lever for the primer, auto. (truth be told I've not messed with it under normal operation only to rope start once). I do not know if it has quick start or not, even though it does rev to about 1200 then die back to 900 or so. I attribute the quick start i experience to the primer system. and that little extra squirt of fuel with minimal air.
my thought process tells me that the throttle plate needs to have pressure because all other settings are correct?