1963 Evinrude 5.5 will not start

[Bluestream]

Hello, I picked up a 63 5.5 to play around with and cant get it to fire. Has good spark from both coils. I have sprayed quick start in cylinders and carb. (also gas) and nothing. Compression is 90 PSI in both.

Any ideas? Never had this much trouble before, as I have not even got it to fire once.

 

[Chinewalker]

Have you checked the coils? Having good spark in open air is quite different from spark under compression. Pull the recoil off, then remove the plate cover from the top of the flywheel to take a peek. If the coils are cracked, replace them. New ones can be found at your local Evinrude dealer, or, lacking that, right here on iBoats.

 

[oldboat1]

Spraying ether in would get a pop if you had spark, I think. Good bet you will need to remove flywheel, so need a harmonic balancer/steering wheel puller. Pick up an adjustable open air spark tester ($10 or so) while at the auto parts store.

 

[Joe Reeves]

With s/plugs removed, the spark MUST jump a 1/4" air gap on that model. A air gap spark tester is available at most auto part stores. Note that checking spark by using the spark plugs is a waste of time.

 

[Bluestream]

Thanks for the replies...I will pull the flywheel this week and have a look

 

[Bluestream]

Took the flywheel off and sure enough the coils are original and heavily cracked. SO much for the seller telling me it runs great. I have to stop believing people who are selling their stuff Anyway, I have some good used coils I will install and see how helps.

 

[racerone]

Took a flywheel off a $50 1972 model 6 hp yesterday.---Found a nice set off new factory coils, points, condensers and wires.----Would not shift due to a broken bell crank at the shift lever under the block.----Hence the price.----Most of these motors have a set of new coils or need a set.----You may have a low hrs motor if it has sat for many years and has the original coils.

 

[Crosbyman]

cracked coils ​... like Racerone said====> low hours :joyous:

 

[Bluestream]

No Title

Yeah, I think the hours are low, looks like the impeller is original as well. Can't wait to take on that job...

 

[lindy46]

Looks like original coils and condensers. Been awhile since that motor ran properly. Change out coils, points, condensers, wires and impeller. Clean/rebuild the carb. And change the gear oil and inspect for water intrusion. If it needs new gearcase seals, might as well do that job while you've got it all apart. Once done, you should have a great running motor.

 

[Crosbyman]

don't forget use solid core metallic wires for the plug....no carbon stuff !!!

​good utubes on gearcase rebuilding / sealing and dropping the lower section you will need a kit in case you damage the powerhead base gasket when dropping the lower portion

carefull with the carbon seals

​sealing kits are available for the gearcase (spaghetti seal and oil eal for the prop shaft drive shaft and shifting shaft

​ easy job and fun winter pastime if you ask me and you will have yourself a good runner for another 50 years

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SVOedhzPP7M


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GCkpGD4bgDI


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EY2HrEdp5vg

http://boatinfo.no/lib/johnson/manua...ohnson.html#/0

 

[Joe Reeves]

Took the flywheel off and sure enough the coils are original and heavily cracked. SO much for the seller telling me it runs great. I have to stop believing people who are selling their stuff Anyway, I have some good used coils I will install and see how helps.

********************
(Magneto & Driver Coil Alignment)
(J. Reeves)

To align the coils properly, have the metal vertical portion of the coil yokes aligned with the inside edge of the bevel that exists on the top portion of the aluminum seat upon which the coils sit. This creates the proper distance between the coils and the flywheel magnets. Faulty alignment creates friction and the yokes of the coils heat up, turn blue and expand.

 

[Crosbyman]

timing...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ga1Cjymj6ms&feature=youtu.be

 

[Bluestream]

Thanks for the posts....Gear oil has already been changed, and it was in good condition, so I wont be messing with the seals. I have 2 good used coils I will install, but will leave the points condensers until I get it running. I was going to re use the wires. Can you still buy copper core wire?

Power head must be removed to access impeller, am I right?

With all my projects I have on the go, going to be a busy winter...

 

[Crosbyman]

metallic wire I got was from a motorbike repair shop. they use solid core wire since RF interference to the AM band is not an issue

yes powerhead must come off as in the utube video (easy job but find a base gasket at vintageoutbaord.com

 

[oldboat1]

Note the spring assembly at the top of the driveshaft -- maybe take a pic for order of reassembly (or check a parts diagram). I find 7mm solid core wire at NAPA (upstate NY farming community -- think it's used in a number of vintage tractors.)

 

[Bluestream]

Put in the new coils today and gaped the points and it fired up second pull. Ran quite smoothly and even pumped water which I was not expecting. Next will be a carb cleaning and replace fuel lines. That glass bowl has a cheesy plastic filter that is hard a s rock. I expect I will pitch that and run with only the glass bowl.

Also wonder why I would replace the spark wires as copper never goes bad?

 

[racerone]

That plastic filter is actually a very good item.---Works very well too.---Still available I believe.

 

[lindy46]

Also wonder why I would replace the spark wires as copper never goes bad?

Rubber gets brittle and can crack and cause arcing/misfiring.

 

[Crosbyman]

Rubber gets brittle and can crack and cause arcing/misfiring.

​and.... electrical contacts at the coil HV pin and the booth spring pin gets oxidized so redoing all the connections by replacing the plug wires will give you a warm feeling 5 miles out