Erratic igition switch malfunction...

JoeySkullz

Recruit
Joined
Aug 20, 2017
Messages
5
I folks, this is my first post, and I am fairly new to owning a boat.
I would to get my fellow boaters opinions to compare to my local marina garage which all they want to do is sell you a new boat or motor instead of fixing the problem.

So here is my issue:

When cold starting my 2 stroke, 1993 Jonhson 90 HP (VJ90TLETS) engine off of my Princecraft Super Pro 166, it takes one or two tries, and it start no problem.
After I get to a specific location to start fishing, I drop my electric bow motor and fish with that all day. (4-5 hours)

When it's time to call it a quits, I have to cold start the engine again, and off we go for a good 20 minutes to the boat ramp.
Once I park, and wait for my partner to go get the truck while keep the boat in idle, it always shuts off on its own or shuts off when I try to start moving again.
When I try to restart it by simply turning the key, nothing, no little wistle, no electrical anything. So I wait one or two minutes, try to turn and use the pump choke while turning the key, something tries to turn, but doesn't even do one engine crank and immediatly fails.

Then I attemps to do a cold start procedures, I hear the whistle, then tuen the key while pumping, nothing, nothing triggers, nor turns, as if electricity is not reaching where it is suppose to.

I cleaned the battery terminals.
Checked the sparks plugs
Fuel is fresh 94 octane
All is good there.

What else can I check to investigate the problem?
 

ondarvr

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Apr 6, 2005
Messages
11,527
There are many more connections that need to checked besides the ones at the battery, follow the cables and make sure all of them are clean, the cables can also be bad themselves.

​Check the ignition switch, again follow the wires and check everything, also use a multi meter to see if there's a point where the 12V stops.

​You don't need 94 octane, regular is fine, there is no benefit to a higher octane rating than what the motor calls for.
 

mrcj001

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 25, 2008
Messages
313
I just went thru this........
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...4-ignition-switch-troubleshooting-help-needed

If turning the key to start and you dont hear the starter solenoid click, its probably the ignition switch.

Has bad as it sounds, open the remote control to get the switch turn the key to "on" and test the voltage coming out of the switch. You should have 12V to accessory's....I was just getting 5.7V........if you show voltage at the battery terminal on the switch, in the "start" position, the switch is bad.
 

JoeySkullz

Recruit
Joined
Aug 20, 2017
Messages
5
Hello mrcj001,

I am a real newbie to boat mechanics, but please explain what you mean by open the remote control?
 

jbuote

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Aug 17, 2016
Messages
1,001
By open the remote control, it means take apart the control unit casing at the helm that has the throttle lever, key switch etc...

​I've only had a boat for a year now, and this may be a really stupid question, but......

​You say you get to fishing spot no problem.
​Drop trolling motor and fish for 4-5 hours. Using the trolling motor..

​Is the trolling motor on it's own battery or does it use the same battery you use to start your engine?

​Just sounds like a dead battery after using the trolling motor if it's just 1 battery for all..
Might have enough juice left to start up to head back, but basically dead?

​Not sure why engine would die at the dock, but idling won't charge the battery (as far as I know)...

Anyway,
​I'm probably not even close with this, and apologize if I'm off, but wanted to throw it out there for whatever it's worth.. lol
 

mrcj001

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 25, 2008
Messages
313
Like jboute said...open the remote and access the ignition switch. You will see small letters next to each terminal. (B,S,M,A)

Some test require you to have the switch in the "start" position. Test the "S" terminal in the start position. You should have voltage (12V) if not there is a problem.

Test the "A" terminal with the switch is the "on" position.....you should have 12V...if not there is a problem with the switch. The switch can be erratic.
 

JoeySkullz

Recruit
Joined
Aug 20, 2017
Messages
5
Got tired of scratching my head about all this, and took it to the local marina garage.
The verdict:

Boat starts just fine after attempting over 20 times.
Ignition switch work great.
Voltage from every angle is fine.
He said that he could did further to find this intermittent problem, but his hours might end up costing more this old boat.
He suggested a few minor tweaks, but didn't even charge me for the inspection...A typical garage would have racked up a bill, but place is really honest...wow!

I took it out all weekend and it did not do it again...so far so good.

Thanks everyone for your help.
 

mrcj001

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 25, 2008
Messages
313
My switch was REAL erratic.....did the same thing...then just quit .

Replace the switch in the off season.....its not that hard to do and the switch is available on Amazon.
 
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