1963 Evinrude 40hp 40353D info

[JJBoatr]

Hey all,

I just picked up a 63' 40hp for a great price...free! I'm going to go through and do the standard refurb steps; points, plug wires, fuel & vacuum lines etc. before I take it out. I'm very familiar with the smaller 22ci OMC motors but this is my first "big twin". My question is with regard to some of the different components I see on this motor like the different fuel pump and hot water choke. Are there any problematic components I should pay particularly close attention too? Is this motor as reliable as the legendary 22ci motors? I already checked compression and it's got 115psi on both cylinders so as long as I can get some spark I'm confident I'll get the old girl running. This motor is going to be an upgrade for my 67' Crestliner Speedster which currently has a 73' 25hp Rude on it. Hoping for about 30mph out of the extra hp but really looking forward to the improved plane speed. Picked up an NOS 10.5x14 prop for it too, should be lots of fun

 

[F_R]

Just as reliable and almost as easy to work on.
Hot water choke: Maybe 5% of them work as intended. For the remaining 95%, most people put them on manual choke to start, then flip it to manual choke off.
Most often screwed-up items: Throttle linkage and electrical wiring. Do it right and you won't have a problem. Do it wrong and cuss it.

 

[racerone]

??----Things may " look different " to you but essentially everything is the same as the smaller 22 cube motor.-----Parts and pieces are the same just a bit bigger.----Fuel pump works exactly the same !

 

[JJBoatr]

Thanks for the responses. I've done a little on the motor already and they seem to have a good reputation but I figured I'd ask the experts. On the fuel pump; the parts breakdown calls it an electric fuel pump but there isn't a single wire connected to it. What's up with that? Bad label in the fische?

 

[racerone]

The " electric " bit on the page refers to the motor being electric start.----There is nothing magic about the fuel pump on that motor;

 

[F_R]

As in "Big Twin" (rope start) vs. "Big Twin Electric" (start)

 

[F_R]

I just looked it up to see what about the fuel pump is so angst. That pump on the '63 models was about the simplest and most reliable of any they've made. Nothing ever goes wrong with them except the diaphragm and filter sock. Both available here at iboats and easy to replace. One caution I might add is be sure to use a reinforced rubber hose for the pulse line going around the back. El Cheapo plastic junk will blow out.

The pump was replaced in later years with the more familiar one. To move it to the other side and make room for the hot-air choke. Probably cost too.

 

[jimmbo]

Hot water choke: Maybe 5% of them work as intended.

I guess the old man was one of the 5%. The one on the 63 Electramatric worked flawlessly

To JJBoatr... Unless the boat you are putting the 40 on is about 11 ft long and weighs less than 200 lbs, a 14 in prop is going to be a dog out of the hole and unlikely to run in the WOT range.

 

[JJBoatr]

I guess the old man was one of the 5%. The one on the 63 Electramatric worked flawlessly

To JJBoatr... Unless the boat you are putting the 40 on is about 11 ft long and weighs less than 200 lbs, a 14 in prop is going to be a dog out of the hole and unlikely to run in the WOT range.

My boat is 14ft and 230lbs. If the 14 seems like a dog I've got a 13 and a couple different 12's I can try.

I'm surprised to see that this motor doesn't have an adjustable high speed jet. It's got a plug just like my 73' 25hp motor does. I've got a couple parts 33's, should I put on a bowl from one of them to gain high speed adjustability or don't bother?

 

[JJBoatr]

I just looked it up to see what about the fuel pump is so angst. That pump on the '63 models was about the simplest and most reliable of any they've made. Nothing ever goes wrong with them except the diaphragm and filter sock. Both available here at iboats and easy to replace. One caution I might add is be sure to use a reinforced rubber hose for the pulse line going around the back. El Cheapo plastic junk will blow out.

The pump was replaced in later years with the more familiar one. To move it to the other side and make room for the hot-air choke. Probably cost too.

Thanks for the info. I already got reinforced line to replace all the vacuum and fuel lines on the motor. They're pretty dry and just falling apart

 

[jimmbo]

Well, the fixed jet ensures adequate fuel, adjustable needles often end up too lean and the engine dies a horrible twitching death. I will admit the fixed jet is richer than an adjustable needle set for top rpm, but OMC may have determined that setting was causing issues. Instructions saying adjust for highest RPM, then turn 1/8 - 3/16 turn richer, are lost or forgotten real quick, so by making the mix un-adjustable eliminated a potential problem. I think 1962 or 63 was when the fixed jet came out. Well, for some oddball reason the 71 40hp had a high speed adjustment, but in 72 the fixed one was back.
If you had a car/truck with a carb, it only had idle mixture screws, mains were fixed.

Ok you have a tin boat. If it is just you, the engine and one gas tank, the 14 might work

The manufacturer said this 14 ft weighed 325, we used 11 1/2, 12, and 13 1/4 props on it. The 11 1/2 and 12 put us in the middle of the WOT range of 4000 - 5000 rpm 1963 40hp Electramatic

 

[JJBoatr]

I like being able to adjust both the high and low circuits. My 25 has a fixed main and it is always rich burbling getting on plane. Since I believe the carbs are the same I might put a bowl from a 33 on it. My brother has a Crestliner mustang with a johnson 33 on it, manufacturer states his bout is 430lbs and his 12" prop performs very well on his boat. Fast on plane and gets 27mph on GPS. Thanks for all the info man.

 

[F_R]

Some people just like to dial knobs. Some don't. Some don't know how. But seriously, the fixed jet certainly does make it a lot easier. They figured that out on cars a heckava long time ago.

 

[JJBoatr]

Agreed fixed jets are simpler. I'll see how it runs before I goof around with the carb. Got my transom ready yesterday, today I'll be working on the motor, if all goes well it should be running by lunch time.

 

[JJBoatr]

Well I found a bad upper crank shaft seal on the motor. I assume changing it will require splitting the case. I'll change the roller bearing and lower seal as I'm sure at least the bearing is bad too. Hopefully the corrosion didn't ruin the crank. Any advice for this job?

 

[jimmbo]

There was a puller made to remove the upper seal without any disassembly. It looked a bit like a piece of threaded pipe that fit over and past the taper and the threads would catch the seal. A bolt in the puller the puller was supposed to lift the seal out. But if you split the case you can give all the bearings an inspection

Edit: seal puller link courtesy of F_R
https://www.richardsoutboardtools.com/

 

[JJBoatr]

There was a puller made to remove the upper seal without any disassembly. It looked a bit like a piece of threaded pipe that fit over and past the taper and the threads would catch the seal. A bolt in the puller the puller was supposed to lift the seal out. But if you split the case you can give all the bearings an inspection

Edit: seal puller link courtesy of F_R
https://www.richardsoutboardtools.com/

I figured there was a tool but I've already got it apart. The top bearing is seized much like I figured it would be. The crank is pitted bad where the seal rides so I'm going to pull the crank out of a 33 I have laying around to get it back together. Pistons, rings and the other bearings all look good. Unfortunately I don't have a manual for this outboard. Can anyone share the torque specs for the crank case, connecting rod cap and head bolts? I assume the head torque pattern is the same as a 22ci motor, start inside and spiral out. Thanks