This is your opportunity to get some tools....wives LOVE that.
You'll want a pressure tester with gauge...I haven't bought one yet, but one that measures vacuum InHg and PSI on the same gauge and has a hand pump that switches from pressure to vacuum would be perfect.
racerone et al will have to correct me if I'm wrong....but if you hook up a pressure gauge AFTER the vro's outlet you should expect 3 psi at idle. Here is where I might be off , if you hook up a vacuum gauge at the vro's inlet you should measure 3 inhg at idle...I believe all of the V6 have a TEE for the vacuum switch (fuel obstruction switch) so that is a great place to put the gauge.
I believe the warning switch for vacuum sounds the alarm at 5inhg....so I would expect the PSI at the vro's fuel outlet to be in 3-4 psi through all rpm range.
DO NOT install an electric pump.
VRO's fuel side diaphragms can be had for about $60 ditto for the air motor side. That is cheaper than a replacement VRO/OMS ($378-$400) or aftermarket fuel-only substitute pump for about $180 (there are two variants that I've seen .....one that has two pumps that work in series (cheaper) then another that seems to be a single big momma pump at $180)
series of tests
- pressure test vro's fuel outlet - should be 3 PSI
- test the fuel obstruction vacuum switch to make sure that works....turn key to ON, unhook switch from TEE, attach vacuum pump and pump up to 5 in hg...horn should sound
- do FhHuber's tests, looking for leaks before the vro, at the vro and AFTER the vro (take air silencer off and look at each little TEE, each nipple and the distribution manifold (plastic cigar looking thing with several nipples coming off of it to each carb) ) NOTE: use snap clamps #10 or #12 for the fuel and pulse lines...NO WORM clamps.
looking for fuel obstruction
- the primer bulb should NOT have collapsed whilst running....doesn't sound like it did.
- undo the fuel pick up line at the tank and at spin on filter (I assume you have one) ....stick one end into a large glass bowl or jar and blow air into the other end....you should see some fuel and hopefully no gunk in the bowl.
- attach a short fuel line to the pickup barb on the tank, add a fuel filter, another piece of hose, a primer bulb and another piece of hose....and the end of the hose into an empty glass bowl or jar....squeeze bulb until yet get fuel coming out into the jar...do that for a bit and inspect the fuel....should just be gas and no gunk/junk in the filter.
Assuming those tests came back positive, then I'd look at carbs next. Probably just needs a rebuild/super duper cleaning.
Pros/Cons to disconnecting oil side from OMS
PRO - peace of mind knowing that you don't have to do due diligence on the oil reservoir, oil pickup, low-oil circuit, no-oil circuit et al
CON - you'll have to pre-mix every time you fill up with gas, loss of convenience.
Pros/Cons to converting OMS to regular fuel-only pump?
PRO -cheaper
CON - you have to premix
CON- the oms pump was designed from the get go to deliver the right amount of fuel at all rpm ranges
Pros/Cons to converting OMS (with oil side disconnected) to regular fuel-only pump?
CON - may be cheaper to buy rebuild kit for which ever side is deemed faulty on the OMS, rather than buy new after market pump
CON- the OMS pump was designed from the get go to deliver the right amount of fuel at all rpm ranges
PRO - removing the housings from the OMS multiple times may ruin the threads in the housings(it is plastic after all) , thus creating leaks....working on a fix for that scenario (
I HAVE that scenario and fixed it) Ultimately forcing you to buy the after market pump if you don't want to try to fix the OMS.
