Johnson 150 Fast Strike problems running after sitting a while .

[motoman]

I am having a issue with my engine starting and running after sitting and fishing for a while . Engine will do a cold start and run fine , planes out out and runs great till you fish for maybe a hour or more . When you go to move will start but can not accelerate , will die and cut out and you have to sit and feather the the throttle to get it running again . After that it will run with no issues . I have done compression check and all are 140,140 136, 140,140 136. I have also done spark test and it all looks fine .Ihave also checked all the the fuel lines and can find no fuel or air leaks from the tank to the cabs. The ball does not stay real tight and have replaced it three times just to be sure . When I try too to pump it tight it floods the engine . Any suggestions on what to try next ? I have also read that these engines are prone to heat sink issues . Are there any ways to avoid that issue ?

 

[ob]

When I try too to pump it tight it floods the engine .

This is an issue. Carburetor/s float valve/s not seating or fuel primer leaking by.

 

[motoman]

How can I determine that the fuel primer is leaking by ? Will fuel be visible leaking or do I remove the cover and check the gasket ?

 

[ob]

Locate the primer outlet hoses and disconnect them at the body of the solenoid. Then pump the fuel primer bulb and see if it leaks by. Make sure the red lever of the primer is seated all the way clockwise/closed. If it is cracked open it can allow fuel to weep by while running as well.

 

[motoman]

Thanks ,I will check this and let you know the out come . I do know that the red lever is pointing down and has been that way since I purchased the boat . Does that seem to be in the correct position ? I tend to have trouble getting the bulb to pump up hard .Usually when its hard to start I have to choke it to get it to start...

 

[ob]

The red lever of the fuel primer should be seated (clockwise/closed) and inline with the body of the solenoid. Not perpendicular. This is the normal run position. The red lever is only used if the control key switch or solenoid no longer works which allows for manual fuel priming on a cold startup.

 

[motoman]

ob,I was able to look at the engine this evening. I removed the two lines at the rear of the primer and as I pumpedthe ball it became hard and there was no fuel leaking from the solenoid . I really don't want too sound stupid but every issue I have had has been self inflected . Is it possible that I am not doing the warm start incorrect? When I start should I be holding in on the Key or tuning it to the on position before starting ? I started with a 18 Evinrude om a Jon Boat and my last boat was a 16 foot Aluminum bass boat with a 70 and there was a learning curve as has been with this one . Like I said I don't want to sound stupid just asking .

 

[ob]

What restart procedure do you use after sitting and fishing for a while? There is a time line at which you may have to go through a cold startup procedure but many times up to an hour or more the engine may start just fine with a turn of the key. Then if it begins to stumble ,you just intermittingly bump the key primer until it settles out. Always a good idea to pump up the fuel bulb firm before restarting after sitting a while.

 

[Captain Jeff]

This could be a "heat soak" issue. If you run the engine for a while and it gets hot, then you shut it off and fish for a while (especially when it is hot and you are in the sun), the heat from the engine can cause the fuel in the carbs to vaporize, evaporate, or leak out. When you go to start the engine, the carbs are now low on fuel. It may start up ok but when you accelerate and it calls for more gas, it doesn't have adequate fuel. I am no expert on this but I have had a similar issue with my 115. You can try shading the engine cover from the sun. Also, try idling the engine for a minute or two before you shut it down. That seems to help cool the engine down a bit from your last run. Also, when you restart after fishing a while, let the engine idle for a minute or two as well before trying to get on plane. Hope this helps.

 

[cfauvel]

Does this motor have the recirc valves? I didn't see a year and model number.

I recall reading that clogged or not functioning valves would cause a hard warm restart.

my thread will explain the purpose if you have them, not so much the symptoms.
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engin...de-225-hp-1986

I have the same symptoms as you before delving into the recirc valves...however, I have other issues to see if my work fixed the warm hard start for sure.



from another forum where I asked the symptoms of bad recircs
" Quote:

Originally Posted by cfauvel ....what symptoms would one expect if the recic valves allowed flow in both directions?

foul out the plugs quicker or allow too much fuel to pool by the reeds and make hot starts difficult.

"

 

[Fed]

After sitting for an hour treat it as a stone cold motor for starting and warming up.
They cool off quickly sitting in the water.

 

[motoman]

Thanks for all the replies,I will try some of the things this weekend when getting out .
1994 Johnson 150 Fast Strike model # J150GLERV Just curious about something else,sometimes it will do the same thing when loading the boat on the trailer..It doesn't matter if you restart it or let it idle when backing the trailer in. I may need to revisit the carburetors . They were cleaned in the spring along with a new VRO pump .The thing that contuses me is I can do a cold start run through a long no wake wake and runs great and once I get it going after sitting a while it runs with no issues .

 

[cfauvel]

you may have a recirc system.....you have these check valves, but I can't tell if they are the recirc system or not...
0435681

 

[motoman]

Just a update on the issue I have been having .I seemed better with doing a cold start each time after fishing for awhile . I do have some questions about what could be causing some of the issues along with the possible heat soak. When loading the boat today was having issues with it taking fuel. There was a fellow there that had similar 150. He had suggested that I check the idle adjuster on top of the engine . After some research on the web I found what he was taking about and had seen different comments on it and about the cam follower . I had read that the cam follower should have a clear cover over it. Do anyone know if this is correct? Mine does not and when I looked the part up it shows the plastic sleeve on it . I have also attached a picture of mine and also how the Idle pointers are set. Could this be causing some issues ?

 

[cfauvel]

I'm not seeing a part number for the sleeve...I see the part for the roller (0432639) but nothing about a sleeve...it looks like you have the o-ring that keeps it in place.

I have no clue about timing on this engine...should be in the manual

 

[motoman]

I am thinking that the sleeve is actually part of the roller and it comes off or deteriorates over time and falls off . I will attach a picture of what I found in a parts cataloge . As for the adjuster ,I have read that it should have both high and low closer to the center . The other picture I thought was the idle adjustment ,I have not been able to locate it in a cataloge .

 

[motoman]

I have located a picture of what the can follower should look like . The other picture is of what I under siid to be the idle adjuster , I have not been able to locate a picture or description in a catalogue. .

 

[cfauvel]

to me it looks like you have that(based on your previous pic)...that is what the o-ring holds down....

 

[motoman]

cfauvel yes sir I have tha and a new o ring and will put that on on I hope I get the chance to try this weekend .

 

[Faztbullet]

This is what it should look like....


And remove optical cover and make sure advance arm is like this....


and not like this as they do slip...more often on hot foot models.