1995 Evinrude 130 won't start, HELP!

Bigben_1

Seaman
Joined
Jun 21, 2017
Messages
58
Are you sure the "L" is not a "1" ?

"1" seems to be the indication for an open circuit.

I like meters with dials & needles, they cost about three & sixpence.

If your brown to brown/yellow wires are indeed open circuited you may have found the problem already.

I'm positive as it's an uppercase "L". I tried to test those wires with every available means, like I said, still an L on one and, specifically, 0.L on the other. This is the same reading as when the probes aren't touching anything. If this is in fact the case, this would mean that the stator is pretty darned messed up.
 

Fed

Commander
Joined
Apr 1, 2010
Messages
2,457
Direct drive would indicate it's a 9A stator according to CDI page # 52.
Four Cylinder Engines
(1988-2001 120-140 HP Quick-Start Models)
Service Note: Please use the Factory recommended spark plug (currently Champion QL77JC4/QL78YC) gapped at
0.030?.
NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:
NOTE: These engines use a gear reduction starter which results in a lower cranking RPM than usual. If you have
one or more cylinders intermittent at cranking: Try starting the engine and checking to see if ALL of the cylinders
now fire correctly. If so, the engine?s ignition should be good. Make sure the battery is sized correctly as the cranking
capacity can affect the cranking speed.

So,the direct drive starter makes it page #50 but now your saying it has quick start which is page #52.

Doesn't matter if your brown to brown/yellow is open circuited (faulty) but it will matter if you have to find a replacement stator.
 

Fed

Commander
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Apr 1, 2010
Messages
2,457
Nearly missed this.
By the way, the L on one meter and OL on the other is at any resistance range setting (one meter is auto ranging) this seems to represent discontinuity in the stator circuit? It reads the same when I test each wire to ground which it should as I understand it. This is leading me to believe that my stator is grounded out, right?
This would lead me to believe there is an open circuit (no continuity) from brown to brown/yellow (faulty).
But, no continuity between either lead & ground which is how it should be.
 

Bigben_1

Seaman
Joined
Jun 21, 2017
Messages
58
Lol, geez. I told you I was a noob! 😊 Anyway, I attached a pic as it appears I don't know what I'm talking about! Well, I tried to attach a pic anyway. Says the file is too big. All I can see is the starter motor and bendix gear. Is there a way to tell?
 

Bigben_1

Seaman
Joined
Jun 21, 2017
Messages
58
Nearly missed this.

This would lead me to believe there is an open circuit (no continuity) from brown to brown/yellow (faulty).
But, no continuity between either lead & ground which is how it should be.

Yes this is true. I can't imagine that I'm performing the test wrong, I tried several different ways of connecting to those wires, at all resistance ranges and it read the same. I'm testing the brown and brown/yellow wires. If it showed an open circuit between the wires, would there be some resistance to ground? Perhaps just a faulty wire?
 

Fed

Commander
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Apr 1, 2010
Messages
2,457
No pic showing Ben.
Going through this is a lot better than replacing a perfectly good powerpack then finding out later the problem is in the stator.
 

Fed

Commander
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Apr 1, 2010
Messages
2,457
I'm testing the brown and brown/yellow wires. If it showed an open circuit, would there be some resistance to ground?
No, the windings are supposed to be insulated from ground.
 

Bigben_1

Seaman
Joined
Jun 21, 2017
Messages
58
No, the windings are supposed to be insulated from ground.

Right, but if it's not apparently insulated, and it's grounding out, would either wire show some resistance to ground. In other words, are the results of my tests even possible?
 

Fed

Commander
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Messages
2,457
Right, but if it's not apparently insulated, and it's grounding out, would either wire show some resistance to ground.
You said it showed an open circuit to ground...
By the way, the L on one meter and OL on the other is at any resistance range setting (one meter is auto ranging) this seems to represent discontinuity in the stator circuit? It reads the same when I test each wire to ground which it should as I understand it. This is leading me to believe that my stator is grounded out, right?
 

Bigben_1

Seaman
Joined
Jun 21, 2017
Messages
58
Yes, direct drive so you should be on page #50, BUT, you also said you have quick start which would put you on page #52.

Yes, I have 2 wires coming from the port cylinder bank, including the white/black wire. So about the ohm test, it IS possible to show an open circuit between brown and brown/yellow (assuming the stator is bad) AND between either wire and ground? Thanks again for bearing with me through this, I can't tell you how much I appreciate the help!
 

Bigben_1

Seaman
Joined
Jun 21, 2017
Messages
58
Yes, direct drive so you should be on page #50, BUT, you also said you have quick start which would put you on page #52.

I am also a bit confused now. I do appear to have the quick start wiring with a direct drive starter. If you feel fairly confident that I in fact have a stator issue, I can pull the flywheel tomorrow and lay eyes on it. The 9 amp and 35 amp look different. A visual check should easily allow me to identify which and order it.
 

ob

Admiral
Joined
Aug 16, 2002
Messages
6,992
Yes, I have 2 wires coming from the port cylinder bank, including the white/black wire. So about the ohm test, it IS possible to show an open circuit between brown and brown/yellow (assuming the stator is bad) AND between either wire and ground? Thanks again for bearing with me through this, I can't tell you how much I appreciate the help!

Short answer to your question is Yes. It's also possible to show continuity or 0 ohms resistance between brown and brown/yellow which would indicate that the stator windings were shorted together and yet could still read open or what's known as infinity to ground on each stator lead.So ultimately what your looking for is the specified ohms resistance between the two stator leads and open or infinity to ground. Hope I didn't butt in on you here Fed
 

Fed

Commander
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Messages
2,457
Jump right in ob.

Read the quote below carefully Ben.
So ultimately what your looking for is the specified ohms resistance between the two stator leads and open or infinity to ground.
That's as simple as it gets.
Just need to be sure you're getting a good connection with the meter and that the meter is OK.

Test the yellow stator wires while you're there to give yourself some confidence.
Disconnect them from the terminal strip & test between the yellows, should be 0.7 Ohms for a 9 Amp stator.
Then test from each yellow to ground, should be infinity, open circuit or a very high reading.
 

Bigben_1

Seaman
Joined
Jun 21, 2017
Messages
58
Jump right in ob.

Read the quote below carefully Ben.

That's as simple as it gets.
Just need to be sure you're getting a good connection with the meter and that the meter is OK.

Test the yellow stator wires while you're there to give yourself some confidence.
Disconnect them from the terminal strip & test between the yellows, should be 0.7 Ohms for a 9 Amp stator.
Then test from each yellow to ground, should be infinity, open circuit or a very high reading.

I'm getting 0.9-1.0 ohm on the yellow wires and L when I go from either yellow to ground. I also retested the browns and still got L.
 

Fed

Commander
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Apr 1, 2010
Messages
2,457
I also retested the browns and still got L.
Is that code for I retested between brown and brown/yellow?

Are you now feeling confident that you have tested properly?

Brown to brown/yellow = open circuit, should have read ~ 500-600 Ohms.

Time to look for a replacement stator.
 

Fed

Commander
Joined
Apr 1, 2010
Messages
2,457
I'm getting 0.9-1.0 ohm on the yellow wires and L when I go from either yellow to ground.
Slightly high but no big deal as you need a new stator anyway.

Out of interest what does the meter read if you short the meter leads together?
 

Bigben_1

Seaman
Joined
Jun 21, 2017
Messages
58
Is that code for I retested between brown and brown/yellow?

Are you now feeling confident that you have tested properly?

Brown to brown/yellow = open circuit, should have read ~ 500-600 Ohms.

Time to look for a replacement stator.

Yes, that's the open circuit code for brown to brown/yellow. Lol, I feel as confident as I can anyway! I found a couple for around $260. I'll go ahead and order, install, and let you guys know what happens.
 
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