1995 Evinrude 130 won't start, HELP!

Bigben_1

Seaman
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Jun 21, 2017
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It may be somewhat different from my 1988 model V4, can you identify yours on the CDI troubleshooter, page # & description so we are sure we're on the same page.
So many different ones displayed, page #57 I mentioned earlier may not be your motor.
Mine is on page 50.
 

Fed

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Mine is on page 50.
My downloaded copy must be out of date, page 50 for me is V6s bla bla... Time to download a fresh one.
Anyway the resistance values are all there for you on page 50.
 

Bigben_1

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Jun 21, 2017
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yes electronics can go out with no freaking warning.

to test the stator properly you'll need a DVA adapter and jumper wires...but you can do preliminary tests with just a multimeter.

ditto for power packs you can do preliminary OHM tests

but to do voltage tests you'll need the dva adapter (that fits into your multimeter)

Stator - most have two windings

1) for the battery - usually two yellow wires that go to the voltage regulator
2) for the hi-volts for the power packs - usually two brown wires per pack...

with multimeter set to CONTINUITY, there should be NO continuity from either yellow wire (disconnected from distribution strip) to ground.
Ditto for either brown wire with the two-wire plug disconnected

with multimer set to ohm measure the ohm between the two yellow wires and between the two brown wires and compare those to expected OHM on the internet....CDI electronics has the numbers and the DVA adapter and jumper wires.

do an OHM test on each coil and each plug wire too. touch the two probes together too to make sure it reads 0 first...if not note the number say .6.....then if testing the coils ohm and it says .56, subtract the .6 to get your actual reading to be .50 ohms

If this has the optical trigger system, then that to could be the issue....I don't have one of those so can't tell you how to test that....from what I understand THAT is NOT uncommon to be the source of engine not firing right...and that TOO just goes out willy nilly.


let us know the results of the tests

If I'm doing this right, I show no continuity between any of these wires. Does that mean the stator is ok?
 

cfauvel

Chief Petty Officer
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Aug 16, 2005
Messages
645
If I'm doing this right, I show no continuity between any of these wires. Does that mean the stator is ok?
Not necessarily, but it is a good start...if there is continuity from yellow wire to ground or the other yellow wire then it is bad...but if no continuity then off to next test the OHM tests.....then the voltage tests.
 

Bigben_1

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This is very frustrating, how am I supposed to test the brown to brown/yellow wires? They both run into a 2-pin plug. How am I supposed to get my multimeter probes down there? I've been trying for 15mins.
 

Fed

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Do the resistance tests with the motor off, do the voltage tests when you get your dva adapter with the motor cranking over.
Get inventive, grab some thin single strand wire and 2 clothes pegs.
 

Fed

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So just to recap...

Meter set to appropriate resistance range you should read 500-600 Ohms or so between the brown and the brown/yellow.
Meter set to highest resistance range you should read infinity or a very high resistance between brown & ground and also between brown/yellow & ground.

What meter did you get?
 

Bigben_1

Seaman
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So just to recap...

Meter set to appropriate resistance range you should read 500-600 Ohms or so between the brown and the brown/yellow.
Meter set to highest resistance range you should read infinity or a very high resistance between brown & ground and also between brown/yellow & ground.

What meter did you get?

I borrowed one from work. It's a craftsman meter. I don't think I can set resistance range, it has auto detect though so I should be ok? Just to be sure, the ohm tests are done without dva but voltage tests are done with dva, right? I'm a total noob when it comes to anything electrical!
 

Fed

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Just to be sure, the ohm tests are done without dva but voltage tests are done with dva, right?
Correct, the resistance test (Ohms) is done with the normal multimeter leads. The Voltage test is done with the dva adapter plugged in.
 

Bigben_1

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Also, my engine may be on page 52, if I have quick start. Not sure how to tell if I do or don't. Also, not sure if I have the 9 or 35 amp stator. I know these questions seem ridiculous but please bear with me as your help is much appreciated.
 

Fed

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The model number you gave makes it a 9A stator and no geared starter motor on the brp website.
(E130TLEOP)
Does your starter motor have a gear reduction head or is it direct drive?
 

ob

Admiral
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Bigben_1 , A quick way to tell if your engine is equipped with the QuikStart/S.L.O.W. feature is to look at the port side engine overheat sensor and see if it is a two wire unit. One tan and one white/black wire exiting the temp sensor fitting. It is located near the top of the cylinder head cover on each bank of cylinders.
 

Bigben_1

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Bigben_1 , A quick way to tell if your engine is equipped with the QuikStart/S.L.O.W. feature is to look at the port side engine overheat sensor and see if it is a two wire unit. One tan and one white/black wire exiting the temp sensor fitting. It is located near the top of the cylinder head cover on each bank of cylinders.

Yes it's quick start. This is the craziest thing and it's making me rather irritated. I've tried alligator clips and even stripping the ends of some thin wire and wrapped the ends around the poles in the connector. NOTHING is touching anything other than what it's supposed to. The meter just displays an "L". I even borrowed my buddy's multimeter and same thing. It measures zero when the probes are touched and an "L" when I try to measure ohms. I don't understand at all. I'm testing between the brown and brown/yellow wires. What is going on??

By the way, the L on one meter and OL on the other is at any resistance range setting (one meter is auto ranging) this seems to represent discontinuity in the stator circuit? It reads the same when I test each wire to ground which it should as I understand it. This is leading me to believe that my stator is grounded out, right?
 
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Bigben_1

Seaman
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Jun 21, 2017
Messages
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The model number you gave makes it a 9A stator and no geared starter motor on the brp website.
(E130TLEOP)
Does your starter motor have a gear reduction head or is it direct drive?

Looks like direct drive
 

Fed

Commander
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Apr 1, 2010
Messages
2,457
Are you sure the "L" is not a "1" ?

"1" seems to be the indication for an open circuit.

I like meters with dials & needles, they cost about three & sixpence.

If your brown to brown/yellow wires are indeed open circuited you may have found the problem already.
 
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