95 evinrude 70 hp timer base and flywheel trigger magnet air gap.

[ob]

Anyone happen to know whether this gap can be adjusted when installing a new timer base? The existing one shows signs of rubbing. Could be because the flywheel trigger magnet epoxy had fractured loose allowing it to be hand removed. The alignment notch however was still aligned with the factory paint mark on the flywheel. Have this puppy apart to replace a tired stator that was beginning to drip the dreaded tarry goo onto the upper crankcase area. Will likely just order a new timer base along with a new stator while one can still be got. Already cleaned up the old epoxy residue and re-glued the trigger magnet to the flywheel using BRP epoxy. These issues seemed to have arrived a few months after a plastic bag wrapped around the water intakes causing an overheat that dropped the engine into S.L.O.W mode. Flywheel got hot enough to fry and egg on. Too bad I didn't have any. Anyway, anyone that can shine some light on the install of a new timer base with respect to air gap between trigger magnet is welcomed.

 

[ob]

Just did some research and discovered that BRP ships an air gap tool along with timer base assy. Just a FYI. According to the literature the air gap is approx. .020".

 

[ob]

Received the new BRP timer base and stator today. Surprised to see that the stator coil windings are all exposed on the new unit as opposed to the original that was encapsulated in resin. One would think that the copper windings themselves might at least have been coated liberally with resin ....but oh well. The timer base itself also seems inferior in construction as well compared to the original part. On the new one ,the housing and timer stop are all thin plastic. Just hope it holds up. Strange that the BRP parts would appear identical to images I've seen of the CDI ignition parts. Unless of course they are identical and just labeled different. Anyway, all is back together now and ready for water testing ,which will be tomorrow sometime. Oh and just an FYI ,there were no other fasteners.air gap gage, or instruction sheet in the packages I received. The info I got on that must have been dated from before the superseded part numbers. Parts I installed were as follows: BRP p/n 0763773 timer base and 0763763 stator assy.

 

[flyingscott]

The windings are not encapsulated in the epoxy anymore so they run cooler.

 

[ob]

Thanks for the heads up on that flyingscott. That thought had crossed my mind. Just hope these parts stand the test of time. Actually not overly involved of a task replacing the parts. Just water tested the boat and everything seems to be operating good so far. No more erratic idle. Did make one small adjustment to idle timing when running on the hose before we launched it. I'd have stayed out longer but the winds are kickin' up down here today. Hopefully we can clock some hours on it early next week.

 

[ob]

Just returned from a water test and the engine ran like a top from idle to WOT. Wooohoo.. One question though for any lurking gurus. The volt meter reads 13 up to 3000 rpm or so but 4500-6000 it reads 14.7. The green/good range on the meter tops out at 15 volts. Before I replaced the stator it ran 13.8-14 at WOT. Any cause for concern of cooking the battery at the higher voltage readings I'm getting now or is a new regulator recommended. Haven't checked voltage with another meter to confirm accuracy of the OMC console meter.