1997 Evinrude Intruder 175 hp surges at 2800 rpm

Hughesjrm

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May 22, 2017
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Good afternoon everyone, hoping someone can help me out as my local mechanic is stumped.

So a little back history. Last year I bought a 1997 Sprit 19' Bass Boat with a Evinrude Intruder 175 hp. First time I took it out I couldn't get it up on plane. Took it to local garage and he cleaned/rebuilt all of my carburetors. He told me he found a bunch of crap in them. I took it out on the lake and it would shoot right out of the hole. Motor ran great and could easily achieve 55 mph. Well about a month later the motor started acting up again. This time it would bog out when I would try to get up on plane. Eventually I figured out that if I feathered the throttle I could get it up on plan. Also if I had a full tank of fuel it didn't seem to do it. Once on plan it would run like a champ. Feeling like this was more of a nuisance than a real issue, I waited till this spring to take it back to the shop. However, being spring I also wanted to go out and do some fishing.

First time I took it out in 2017 it performed the same. I had to feather the throttle to get it on plane. Now the second time I took it out it was getting up on plane with no issues, however when I got up to between 3500-4000 rpm I would get a surge. Original I though I had some water in the fuel. The next day I dropped it off at the shop. The mechanic called me Saturday after having the boat for two weeks and said he was stumped. He told me he had over 30 hours of troubleshooting into it with 6 hours on the lake and couldn't figure it out. Said he even called a fellow tech that was a wiz on Evinrudes and he didn't now either. They went through and cleaned/rebuilt all the carbs. Checked compression (110-115 all cylinders), and spark. All good. He did say that my timing was advanced a little and the idler screws were turned way out (13 turns). He said he tried to put it back to factory but the motor would run. He said he bypassed my fuel tanks and used an external and still had the same issue. He said his next step would be to start replacing parts one at a time to see if it would go away. Not wanting to do a bunch of recreational maintenance I told him to hold off. Great thing is he didn't charge me anything since he didn't fix it. Tried to give him some money but wouldn't take it.

So now I'm stuck. Not sure what to do. Motor starts up great even shoots out of hole good and the rpms will go up to 3500-4000 while getting on plane. But once up on plane the rpms drop to between 2500-3000. It's almost like something is telling the motor not to go any high on rpms while on plane like a governor. If I give it more throttle and try to go faster it will cut out. Motor will start immediately back up.
I find it odd that I had an issue with bogging at take off, which has completely gone away to now having this surge.

I welcome anyone's advice. Would love to get it running normal
 

bob johnson

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I don't have a soliution, but id love your mechanics phone # and address!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

bob
 

Hughesjrm

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May 22, 2017
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Yea it was definitely really nice of him and his team. They even fixed a short in my trailer harness and serviced my tilt n trim.
 

bob johnson

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you cant not give him anything...you need that guy to stay in business!!!!!!!!!

and he cant if he puts in 30 hours of work for free!!!!!!!
 

cfauvel

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Aug 16, 2005
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645
did they check the stator voltage and/or loose magnets?
did they try on an external tank?
with a multimeter and charts on expected OHM you could test the stator, timer base (if it has one), and power packs...

with a DVA adapter you could test the expected voltage for Stator, timer base or optical pickup and powerpacks...
 

Hughesjrm

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I don't believe he spent much time checking the electronics or power packs. I believe he thought it was a fuel issue. How would I go about checking those out.
 

cfauvel

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I don't believe he spent much time checking the electronics or power packs. I believe he thought it was a fuel issue. How would I go about checking those out.



either in your service manual or CDI electronics, find the chart for your engine to tell you expected OHM between which wires.

for any stator, the wires that go to your regulator should NOT be grounded...undo both yellow wires to the regulator. with a multimeter set to continuity...place one lead on one of the wires and the other lead to ground....there should be NO continuity....if there is it is bad stator.

next once you have the OHM number expected change your meter to OHMs, and put one lead on yellow wire and the other lead to other yellow wire...if the reading is not within the range expected...then probably bad stator too.

then get some jumper wires from CDI electronics so you can test the OHM of the stator wires to the powerpacks between the wires you manual or CDI state...something like Middle pin (pin b to pin c, Pin b to pin a, pin b to pin d). I believe the same thing for these wires, there should be NO continuity between pins A,B,C,D to ground.

CDI's website has all the tests very well spelled out,.

and I suggest buying their DVA Adapter to test the expected voltage for both windings.

If the stator is going bad or the magnets are loose....the expected voltage will not be correct for the speed desired, preventing you from getting the speed expected ....it might be fine from 1000- 4000, but won't get you past that.

I've had loose magnets...my WOT was down to 4600rpm
I've had bad stator and my WOT was down to 2800rpm

Currently the engine is fine(knock on wood) ....5800RPM at 47.6 MPH
 

Hughesjrm

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So I think I have narrowed my troubleshooting down to a fuel issue vs an electronics issue. The reason I say that is while I was out on the lake this past Memorial Weekend with the family, I had my wife squeeze the primer bulb after the boat had been running. Low and behold it shot right up on plane and had no surging at WOT. So yesterday I decided to start cheap and replace the fuel lines from the engine to the tank, along with a new bulb and water separater filter. They all looked like it was time to replace them anyways. Took it back out on the lake and the issue is still there. From what I have read it seems like the most likely cause is the fuel pump. Would anyone know what the part # would be? The VRO pump was removed before I got it. I've done a quick search but can't find anything specific to my motor. The one on my motor looks like the attached picture. Definitely appreciate the help.
 

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racerone

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That pump may not be able to supply enuff fuel.---Might need 2 of them !!----Talk to a shop about a proper replacement.
 

Hughesjrm

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May 22, 2017
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Guess that's what I was hoping to find out here instead of taking it back to the shop. When I search online I find VRO replacement Fuel Pump kits for Johnson/Evinrude 150-175 hp for 60&90 degrees. How do I know what degree my motor is?
 

bob johnson

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what is on there now?? the commercial( non oms) 150s had a duel fuel pup set up....look up one of those and see the set up you need.....or just buy the VRO pump and plug the oil line... if you don't have the bracket for the duel regular fuel pumps... I think by the time you buy all the partsd needed, with the time required to install it all...it would have been easier to just replace the style that was original....
 

racerone

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I believe the intruder models are 60 degree.---Or post some pictures of you engine.
 

Hughesjrm

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Was going to try and upload a photo of my motor and pump, but the file size was to large. After looking closer I do have two pumps on the motor. Looks like one is behind the bracket. Still couldn't find a PN though. Is it wiser to rebuild the two pumps or just buy a new one
 

bob johnson

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I am pretty sure all 1997 175 hp's from J-E were 60 degree loopers. I couldn't find my photo of the dual fuel pump set up..... but I think I saw it in the 1995 90-175hp 60 degree looper manual...it was on a 'commercial" version of either the 105 hp and or the 150 hp...
 

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bob johnson

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found this it was originally for a 125 hp from 1995.....
 

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Hughesjrm

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So I order my fuel pump two weeks ago, but been so busy I hadn't had a chance to change it. Finally changed it out on Monday night and went and fished my local Tuesday night bass tournament. Unfortunately the $200 fuel pump did not fix the problem. It did seem to help a little but now surges at 3400-4000 rpms vs 2800-3000 rpms.
Does anyone have any ideas as I am stumped. What else could be in line.
 

bob johnson

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So I order my fuel pump two weeks ago, but been so busy I hadn't had a chance to change it. Finally changed it out on Monday night and went and fished my local Tuesday night bass tournament. Unfortunately the $200 fuel pump did not fix the problem. It did seem to help a little but now surges at 3400-4000 rpms vs 2800-3000 rpms.
Does anyone have any ideas as I am stumped. What else could be in line.

whats the part # of the fuel pump you ordered????

bob
 

Hughesjrm

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May 22, 2017
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This is the one I ordered which was identical to the one I removed off the motor.

| 600-156-01-E | Fuel Pump Johnson & Evinrude Non-VRO Kit 60 | $178.83 | $178.83
| degree V4-V6
 

Hughesjrm

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May 22, 2017
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Good afternoon everyone. So update on my original post. So the new non VRO Fuel Pump did not fix my surging issue, and a month after I replace the pump my motor would not start. Being aggravated I put the boat up for the rest of the year. Didn't help that I had to buy a new truck as well.

Anyways, being eager to get out fishing this year and enjoy the spring I took my boat to a shop over an hour away that specialized in Evinrude Motors. I was pretty excited that after a few hours of my boat being at the shop he called and said he had diagnosed my problem. He said the reason the motor would not start was the primer solenoid was bad, and as far as my surging issue he said that the fuel system was sucking air due to several bad O-rings. I had him repair all of those items and got my boat back one week later.

First time I took it out on the lake the motor ran great; started right up, got up on plane no problem, and could get up to 5500 rpms with no surging. I was ecstatic that my motor was finally fixed. So next time I take the boat out, again everything was great. I fished for about 8hrs and then head back to the dock. On the way back, my motor surged a couple of time around 4500 rpms, but went away and got back up to 5500 rpms no problem.

Tuesday night I went to our local Tuesday night fishing tournament. Motor started no problem; however, when my number was called to take off and I gave it WOT it hesitated/bogged trying to get up on plane. I trimmed my motor down a little lower and got up on plane the second try. Yet now when I got to 3500 rpms it began surging again back between 2800 - 3500 rpms just like last year, and did it every time I went to take off to a new spot.

I've got to say this is ridiculous. I don't understand how my boat can be fixed one minute, and than have the exact same issue a couple of days later. I called the shop which is an hour away and he said the only two things left it could be was my fuel pump (which he said he had never seen that type before) or my quick dis-connects (think they are anti syphoned connects) on my tanks. he said they are not rated for 175hp motor. I'm pretty sure it is not the dis-connect as the shop last year hooked up an external tank and it had the same issue. Fuel Pump maybe; however, I had no issue for several months with the exact same pump and literal have ten hours on the one I just put on.

If anyone has any ideas I would love to hear them. I'm about to give up on this thing.
 
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