Garage sale Evinrude

tjandrews

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 4, 2007
Messages
126
I stumbled across this at a garage sale yesterday, and just couldn't pass it up. It's an Evinrude Sportwin 10hp. The model number is 10016, making it a 58 model. It's in decent condition, and looks generally well cared-for, but there are a few problems. The seller wasn't the user, but had acquired it from a friend who bought a new motor.

The biggest problem is the steering bracket, with a piece broken out where the tiller/throttle fastens on. The previous owner had used it with remote controls, so it didn't bother him much, but I need the tiller. Fortunately, the tiller itself was included, in a box, in pieces, but all there. And, I found a used bracket for a Johnson on eBay for $20, and bought it. Wrong color, but it'll do the job.

It looks pristine under the hood. Looks like the carb has been replaced, and not too long ago. Compression feels good when you pull the cord, and the plugs look like they don't have more than about 10 hours on them. I didn't pull the flywheel yet, but checked for spark and have a good one on each cylinder.

There's a chunk broken off the cavitation plate. Must have hit a rock or something sometime. I don't think it'll bother much. I'll probably put a hydrofoil on it anyway, like I have on my other three motors. The case may or may not have a small crack at that point - it's hard to tell for sure. Just in case, I'll cover it with J B Weld when I put things back together.

Draining the gearbox, I got about a half cup of water and a quarter cup of greasy sludge. And, there was about 3/32" of end play in the prop shaft. Well, I was going to have to put in a new impeller anyway, so I took the gearbox apart to see what I could see. The gears were covered in sludge - good news. They and the clutch dog all look nearly new in condition - perhaps they'd been replaced sometime. One of the thrust washers is missing - the reason for the end play. Shafts and bearings all look and feel good, as do the drive and prop shafts. Hard to tell if the seals have been replaced recently, I'll put in a kit. The impeller definitely needs changing.

The bracket, impeller, thrust washer, and seal kit come to not quite $60. And what do you suppose I paid for the motor? $25. The guy wanted $30, but I talked him down.
 

Attachments

  • PICT3660.JPG
    PICT3660.JPG
    80 KB · Views: 2
  • photo265541.jpg
    photo265541.jpg
    80 KB · Views: 1
  • photo265543.jpg
    photo265543.jpg
    60.6 KB · Views: 1
  • photo265544.jpg
    photo265544.jpg
    78 KB · Views: 1
  • photo265545.jpg
    photo265545.jpg
    68.1 KB · Views: 1
  • PICT3664.JPG
    PICT3664.JPG
    68.1 KB · Views: 2
  • PICT3730a.JPG
    PICT3730a.JPG
    69.1 KB · Views: 2

mla2ofus

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Dec 30, 2008
Messages
571
Went through the same thing with the tiller on my '54 15HP Rude. Had the broken piece welded back twice and after the last break had the tiller welded solid to the bracket since the motor never leaves the boat and no need to fold up the tiller.
Mike
 

gm280

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jun 26, 2011
Messages
14,585
Other then the real possibility of the foot crack, everything else is very doable. Even if you can find a bracket for the tiller arm, it looks so easy to manufacture and then mill off the original and install the new one.

I would bring that engine back to factory specs and colors just because I could. I do suspect that suspect crack is where the water came from in the foot oil though. Just my guess.
 

tjandrews

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 4, 2007
Messages
126
Other then the real possibility of the foot crack, everything else is very doable. Even if you can find a bracket for the tiller arm, it looks so easy to manufacture and then mill off the original and install the new one.

I would bring that engine back to factory specs and colors just because I could. I do suspect that suspect crack is where the water came from in the foot oil though. Just my guess.

The spot that looks like it might be a crack looks awfully straight for one - it may be something else. Closer inspection shows wear at the spot where the piece broke off, indicating it was not a recent break.

I have a 56 15HP Johnson that a friend gave me that has a crack in the skeg, no doubt from being stored in the cold with water inside before I got it. The crack had been repaired with a J B Weld-like material, but that was leaking oil out an old air bubble when the skeg warmed above 80 degrees. I put more J B Weld over it and it's held for 7 years. No oil or water leaks at all. I think a layer of J B Weld over the spot on this one will probably hold any crack that might be there, too. Worth a shot, anyway.
 

johnnybgood

Seaman
Joined
Jun 12, 2012
Messages
72
What a find I had the exact same model and year when I was a kid in the early 60's wish I still had it never had a bit of trouble with it and during the summers my best freind and I were out fishing every day on Long Isand Sound will be following your progress
 

tjandrews

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 4, 2007
Messages
126
Ran into a setback. In my ham-handed attempt to remove the seal in the upper driveshaft bearing carrier without a proper seal puller, I broke the housing. A Google search shows I'm not alone, but that is of small comfort.

The part is no longer available through conventional channels, but I found one on eBay, NOS, for $57, including shipping. That saved me from trying to find something from another model that might fit. Waiting for the part - should be here in 2-3 days.

On the plus side, replacing the missing thrust washer completely eliminated the prop shaft end play, as expected.
 

tjandrews

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 4, 2007
Messages
126
She runs!

I finally got the chance to put the lower unit back together. (Having to take time out to make a living is a PITA.) One of the things I noticed was that the oil plug gaskets were the old leather-like style, and in pretty poor condition. Then again, needing to use PB Blaster, Vice Grips on the screwdriver, and a hammer to get the screws out couldn't have done them any good.Still, I don't think they'd ever been changed for new ones. Could be that was part of the reason for water in the gearcase.

Anyway, before changing the steering bracket, I decided to try 'to start it. So I put some water in a barrel, and mixed up some gas in my one pressure tank, and gave it a shot. Even though the tiller/throttle handle isn't on it yet, I can control the throttle with the lever on the side. First thing I noticed was that the cable ties the guy had used as clamps on the gas line weren't holding. They leaked at the point when the carb had been fully primed. OK, no problem - I have clamps.

So I put the choke on and pulled it a half dozen times. Nothing. Three or four more, still nothing. pushed the choke back in. Pulled twice, and thout I heard it try to fire. Twice more, and it started to run, roughly at first, but better as it went along. Water pumping like a champ. Shifted into forward, sped it up as much as I dared in the barrel. Beautiful. slowed down to shift into reverse, and it stalled. In neutral, one pull and it's running again. (Probably the carb settings. Gotta wait until I get it on a boat to finalize them.) Running great in reverse. Slowed down to shift to neutral, and it stalled again. Again, starts on one pull.

I think we have a winner here!

Next, I change the steering bracket. The bracket I found on eBay came from a '56 Johnson, so it was the wrong color, but I found a can of cheap Rustoleum Engine paint in "Old Ford Blue," and painted it, Not quite right, but at least it's blue. Looks like I have to remove the powerhead to do the job, not something I'm exactly eager to do, but I'll get 'er done.
 

oldboat1

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Apr 3, 2002
Messages
9,598
If the '56 Johnson isn't a fit, I know I've used the bracket from a '58 18 to replace one on a '58 10. Not sure if the powerhead had to come off (been too long), but maybe the front part of the frame or pan.
 

tjandrews

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 4, 2007
Messages
126
No Title

Got the bracket changed, and it's a perfect fit. My paint was indeed the wrong shade of blue, but I think it looks better than the badly-chipped Johnson red would have. As it turned out I COULD have changed it without removing the powerhead, but it was difficult to know that before the powerhead was off. No matter - it was probably easier this way.

While I had the starter off I looked at the coils through the flywheel hole, and they look nearly brand new. That's a load off my mind. They've probably been replaced, as they have the look of aftermarket, rather than OEM. I haven't decided yet whether to pop the flywheel or just let it go - the sparks are nice and blue.Sigh. Probably should. No idea if the gap is right, or just close enough to work.

The fuel line held on with cable ties was leaking because it was one size too big. No idea why it wasn't leaking worse than it was. The pressure line broke when I tried to pull it off, so it will have to be replaced, too. With the clamps that were on there it had to be original, all but 60 years old, so it would need replacing anyway.

Along the way I discovered that one clamp on the choke/throttle linkage was loose and on the verge of falling off. I fixed that, and checked the sync. At first I thought it was off, but then I remembered reading about slop in the linkage, so I watched the throttle for opening rather than the cam follower. Going by that, it's right on the money.

For now, I'll keep using the pressure tank, but as I only have one, currently being used by my '54 Johnson 10HP, and I have three single-hose tanks, I'll probably do a conversion on it. Someday.
 

Attachments

  • photo268489.jpg
    photo268489.jpg
    82 KB · Views: 1

oldboat1

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Apr 3, 2002
Messages
9,598
Nicely done. You can clean and adjust the points through that view hole -- can be enough to just reach in there with your feeler gauge set at .020, dipped in some acetone or lacquer thinner. Think I would try cleaning before resetting, just to simplify. If the impeller was changed and the tank is working, see what you have (24:1 mix ratio). After it warms up in the barrel, might try slight adjustments to the carb needles to get it as close as you can before boat testing.
 

tjandrews

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 4, 2007
Messages
126
A small setback. I got some new fuel line and installed it, then put 'er in the barrel for a test. That was when I learned that 1/4 inch fuel line was NOT the right size, and that the clamps wouldn't compensate well enough. Also, I had thought that with some silicone sealant the gasket under the powerhead would be OK, even though there had been some damage, but I was wrong. Water dripping out around it, and that can't be good.

On the plus side, it did start right up and after a bit of adjustment of the high speed knob smoothed right out. So, I'm still very optimistic about the whole project. I have a new gasket coming, and will be getting some 3/16 fuel line. And then I'll go from there.
 

tjandrews

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 4, 2007
Messages
126
Garage sale Evinrude - Surprise!

Some of you may recall that I found this 1958 Sportwin 10HP at a garage sale a couple of months ago, and bought it for $25. I had to replace some parts, but even with them I had just a little over $100 in it. I was surprised to find the carb had been replaced, and it had spark, and when I put it in a barrel it started up essentially right away.

But I got to thinking... I don't know much about this motor, and even though I could see good coils through the hole in the flywheel, I should take a look inside anyway. So I popped the flywheel off, and this is what I found - It looks like the whole magneto is brand-new!

So now it's got me worried. Why would anybody put all that money into all those new, expensive parts, only to practically give it away at a garage sale? What am I missing?
 

boobie

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 5, 2009
Messages
20,826
Change the gear case oil and the water pump. Then take it and run it. Then buy a lotto ticket.:joyous:
 

gm280

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jun 26, 2011
Messages
14,585
Some of you may recall that I found this 1958 Sportwin 10HP at a garage sale a couple of months ago, and bought it for $25. I had to replace some parts, but even with them I had just a little over $100 in it. I was surprised to find the carb had been replaced, and it had spark, and when I put it in a barrel it started up essentially right away.

But I got to thinking... I don't know much about this motor, and even though I could see good coils through the hole in the flywheel, I should take a look inside anyway. So I popped the flywheel off, and this is what I found - It looks like the whole magneto is brand-new!

So now it's got me worried. Why would anybody put all that money into all those new, expensive parts, only to practically give it away at a garage sale? What am I missing?

Maybe the PO got tired of fixing it up and just wanted to get rig of it for good. Like the old saying goes, don't look a gifted horse in the mouth.
 

tjandrews

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 4, 2007
Messages
126
I've decided to leave well enough alone with the magneto except to check the point gap, even though I believe I saw spark from both. Just as well that I did. One was OK, but the other was way too close - close enough that' I'm surprised it was firing at all.
 

tjandrews

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 4, 2007
Messages
126
Ah, a light dawns. After setting those brand new points properly, I tried it in the barrel again. I thought it was running good before, but you can tell there's MUCH more power there now.

My guess? The guy had some sort of lack of power problem, possibly due to a bad coil, but he didn't know that. I mean, the thing runs smooth as silk, even on one cylinder. He replaced the carb, and that didn't help. Then he replaced the whole magneto assembly, and tried it again, but it still had no power because that one set of points was off. At this point he's so frustrated that he dumps the whole thing on the first unsuspecting guy to come along - me - for whatever he can get.

He's probably still chuckling to himself over how he got $25 out of what he believed to be a pile of worthless scrap. :lol:
 

jimwalt

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 16, 2017
Messages
100
That's so cool. While I know NOTHING about motors and most of what you said (just got my very first boat 1955 Wolverine 12' and motor 1977 Johnson 6hp) it was cool to read your story. You obviously know A LOT about these motors. I wouldn't even know the first thing to do if I saw a motor for $25 at a garage sale... Buy it, or leave it.... Thanks for sharing!
 

tjandrews

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 4, 2007
Messages
126
No Title

Here's the motor on the boat on the St. Lawrence river. (Yes, I know it's still tied to the dock.) The boat is an old 13 foot Feathercraft. Motor works great. Starts on first pull, pushes the boat along at a good clip, at least as good as my '54 10HP Johnson does, and it's a LOT quieter. The folks in the neighboring camps appreciate that in the early morning hours.
 

Attachments

  • photo272730.jpg
    photo272730.jpg
    95.6 KB · Views: 1
Top