First trip of the year, trouble shifting, 2005 Johnson 90hp J90GLSOB 2 stroke carb'd

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SweetD

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cfauvel said:
another thing to look at is the linkage on the starboard side from the throttle cable to carb...this year I had to re-lube and replace the linkage bushings as they were super stiff which affected shifting and throttling movements..
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Thanks cfauvel, I am pretty convinced this is my problem. When I detached the shift cables from the motor linkage, I could not easily rotate the shift shaft - as a matter of fact I couldn't do it by hand. I understand the shift shaft should be easy to move when free of the cables. So I think the shift shaft is bound by the linkage bushings being corroded.

I understand that to get to the shift shaft and the bushing assembly to lube it, I need to take off the lower cowlings. Is there some trick to removing the lower cowlings other than the obvious screws holding the two cowling sides together? I can't find a video or any "how to" on removing those cowlings.

I have access to the exploded assembly drawing from the shop evinrude website. I'd love to post the pic here and look at the part numbers with you, but for some reason this site is still not letting me post pics.

Thanks very much everyone for your advice.

Dave
 
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SweetD

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daselbee said:
The cover I am speaking of is easily accessed when the LU is removed. It is just forward of the waterpump. It is fastened with 6 screws.
I rarely replace the O-rings....I just get a new cover and gasket.
When the LU is off, you can very easily operate the shift rod manually, and see if it is binding due to corrosion, etc.

You must set the shift shaft height when re-assembling, because you have to remove the shaft completely to get the cover separated from the shaft.
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I now have a good understanding of what you are describing - where the shift rod enters the LU there is a cover with a gasket and o-ring. Thanks for this.
 
cfauvel

cfauvel

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SweetD said:
Thanks cfauvel, I am pretty convinced this is my problem. When I detached the shift cables from the motor linkage, I could not easily rotate the shift shaft - as a matter of fact I couldn't do it by hand. I understand the shift shaft should be easy to move when free of the cables. So I think the shift shaft is bound by the linkage bushings being corroded.

I understand that to get to the shift shaft and the bushing assembly to lube it, I need to take off the lower cowlings. Is there some trick to removing the lower cowlings other than the obvious screws holding the two cowling sides together? I can't find a video or any "how to" on removing those cowlings.

I have access to the exploded assembly drawing from the shop evinrude website. I'd love to post the pic here and look at the part numbers with you, but for some reason this site is still not letting me post pics.

Thanks very much everyone for your advice.

Dave
Click to expand...



Dave,

If when the shift cable is disconnected from the linkage and you can move the throttle handle easily, then bushings for the linkage for the butterflies are probably fine

not familiar with your particular motor, but yep should be just removing the lower cowling's screws...eezy peezy

as far as shifting the rod by hand...yeah I guess it could be done by hand, but being so hard to get to with the cowling on, I'd be suspect of that.

If the shift rod is like mine where there is a pin coming from the port side that connects the shift rod to the shift mechanism at the motor, then by removing that pin you most definitely be able to move the shift mechanism at the motor by hand.

The rod, if you attach a vice grip to it, you should be able to shift in and of gear with some ease, but its not like super easy either. Spit balling here, I'd guess like 10 lbs of force on the rod up and down..

you should be able to look between the mid section and the lower unit and see the shift rod coming through the steering tube...if it is hitting the front of the tube...then your lower mounts need to be replaced
 
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SweetD

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^ Thank you very much for that additional explanation cfauvel. For you last statement about looking between the mid section and LU to see the shift rod, that is with the LU dropped, correct? I remember seeing it last time it was dropped when we did the water pump and I saw the shift rod coming through.

Also, am I correct in thinking that the lower motor mounts are P/N 0434632 RUBBER MOUNT, Lower? Just want to make sure I am identifying the correct part...thanks!

Dave
 
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cfauvel

cfauvel

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SweetD said:
^ Thank you very much for that additional explanation cfauvel. For you last statement about looking between the mid section and LU to see the shift rod, that is with the LU dropped, correct? I remember seeing it last time it was dropped when we did the water pump and I saw the shift rod coming through.

Also, am I correct in thinking that the lower motor mounts are P/N 0434632 RUBBER MOUNT, Lower? Just want to make sure I am identifying the correct part...thanks!

Dave
Click to expand...


no need to lower the LU to see if the rod is touching(maybe on yours though)...and yes you have the right part number if the rod is touching the front edge of the hole.

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SweetD

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Thanks cfauvel for that clarification. I am pulling the boat after work today and hopefully get to work on it soon thereafter...will update!

Dave
 
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Fed

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I was interested in mine but I couldn't see it with all the ambient light, took a picture with my new fangled camera on a wire.
shift.JPG
 
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Got the boat home tonight - for sure it's the motor mounts. I ordered a set from iboats.com and got to work. I have the port side one out and working on the starboard side (done for the evening). You can see from the pic that my shift rod is definitely binding on the exhaust housing. Hope this all works out!

Thanks again so far for all the advice.

Dave
 

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cfauvel

cfauvel

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SweetD said:
Got the boat home tonight - for sure it's the motor mounts. I ordered a set from iboats.com and got to work. I have the port side one out and working on the starboard side (done for the evening). You can see from the pic that my shift rod is definitely binding on the exhaust housing. Hope this all works out!

Thanks again so far for all the advice.

Dave
Click to expand...



oops made a mistake thinking it would be rubbing in the front...in rubs in the back,,,,

you are on your way!!
 
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Fed

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At least mine is sort of concentrically nasty, 30 Years of salt water cfauvel.
 
cfauvel

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Fed said:
At least mine is sort of concentrically nasty, 30 Years of salt water cfauvel.
Click to expand...


I'm in the same boat (pun intended) 31+ year old motor, but my nut is better shape....LOL

Yeah yours right in the middle of the hole....no friction....damn the innuendos are coming fast and furious...i can't stop
 
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OK, I got the starboard side motor mount out - more difficult than the port as it was less corroded in 'not as ideal' areas, but it finally gave way after a bunch of persuasion and drilling like Swiss cheese. I found what worked best was to drill out the rubber overmold around the center aluminum wedge and that eventually let me pry that wedge out. The rest was pretty easy.

Except for the fact that the upper retaining bolt is totally frozen in the aluminum housing. And the bolt head is totally stripped. So I ended up being able to get my sawzall in to cut the threaded portion of the motor mount that the bolt was still threaded into, and that leaves the stuck bolt left. Currently soaking in Kroil (the best penetrating oil known to man in my opinion).

As soon as I got the mount out, the shift rod came free from it's binding on the exhaust housing. I have a temp support wedged into the port motor mount cavity for stability.

Parts will be here tomorrow. Had to order a single mounting bolt @ $20 new off of eBay - what a rip!

Stay tuned, will update. Thanks!
Dave
 

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SweetD

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cfauvel said:
can you cut the plate or hacksaw the bolt?
Click to expand...

That rectangular area you are suggesting is actually part of the outer housing (or whatever you would call it) - it's not part of the motor mount. So cutting any of that would be compromising the motor housing. Luckily that bolt is not threaded through that hole, it's a thru-hole. And there's actually a bit of clearance for the bolt. So I'm hoping to dissolve the corrosion with the Kroil and pop it through eventually!

Dave
 
cfauvel

cfauvel

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SweetD said:
That rectangular area you are suggesting is actually part of the outer housing (or whatever you would call it) - it's not part of the motor mount. So cutting any of that would be compromising the motor housing. Luckily that bolt is not threaded through that hole, it's a thru-hole. And there's actually a bit of clearance for the bolt. So I'm hoping to dissolve the corrosion with the Kroil and pop it through eventually!

Dave
Click to expand...
I remember the raised platform...whew good thing you don't listen to me....what is this Kroil thing you speak of?
 
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SweetD

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SweetD

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cfauvel said:
cool does that work for corrosion between stainless steel and aluminum?
Click to expand...

My experience is that it works on virtually any corrosion, and I've been using it for years!

I work with a bunch of mechanical engineers and they all swear by it as well...
 
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