1970 Johnson 6hp Starter Pinion Replacement Tips?

Joined
May 15, 2017
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11
Hi Guys. I finally took the initiative to order a new starter pinion for the pull starter on my 1970 Johnson 6hp. For the last several months since the original pinion split (I run the motor three days a week) I have simply lifted the cowling off the motor and engaged the little black pinion against the flywheel by hand. Then pulled.

Well, I finally found a supplier for a new cowling seal (in England, of all places) so now the cowling fits nice and snugly and I really can't be lifting it on and off every time I start the motor anymore.

The problem I am having is that I don't know how to keep the spindle from unwinding wildly once I drive out the roll pin holding the pinion to the spindle.

Has anyone ever done this job before?

Any ideas on how to keep tension applied while removing the old pinion and sliding a new one one, then re-driving the roll pin? I hope this question makes sense. It appears the internet has no information on how this job is performed. Merely a poorly titled You Tube showing the finished result ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XDUgaYUyWk ). Thanks in advance if anyone's done this process before and wants to share how!
 

RCO

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Jun 15, 2016
Messages
350
Remove the starter from the motor, and work on it on the bench. No spring tension, and a lot less chance of screwing it up.
 

F_R

Supreme Mariner
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Jul 7, 2006
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28,195
1. Pull the rope all the way out and stick the handles of a common pair of pliers under the pinion. That will hold it up against the flywheel, preventing rewinding.
2. Remove the rope from the starter spool. Pay attention to how it is held in there. Some use a knot, some are somewhat complex
3. With the rope removed, hang onto the spool, remove pliers, and let it rewind Slowly.
4. Now you can replace the pinion with no tension on the spring. Option: remove it from the motor if you want to. You may have to tilt it anyway.
5. Wind the spring 16 1/2 turns, stick the pliers back in, and replace the rope.
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 28, 2013
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36,268
Note----Careful / think about which way you turn it to wind up the spring.----They are very proud of those springs.
 
Joined
May 15, 2017
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3. With the rope removed, hang onto the spool, remove pliers, and let it rewind Slowly.

This is the part that scares me, haha!

I've heard that spring can really get cranking upon release and will usually break. I should still be able to access the slot on top of the spring housing (with a big slotted screwdriver) to slow the release, right? Or simply hold pressure against the spool with my hand?

Then drive out the roll pin, tilt the starter to allow removal of the old pinion (and replacement with a new one) and then drive the roll pin back in?

Does that sound right?

Then simply re-tension the spring as listed in the service manual? Reattach pull rope to and allow the spindle to retract the rope back onto the spool?

Oddly, there is no mention of how to replace that pinion in the manual.

You guys have saved the day. THANK YOU! It's been an amazing motor.

It trolls the saltwater of Everglades National Park at least 25hrs a week (usually 10+hrs at a time without rest!). I couldn't even begin to estimate the tens of thousands of hours of operation it's provided over the decades. Still runs like new (replaced the points and condensers several years ago with the updated versions, and replaced all fuel lines awhile back because 40 year old fuel lines aren't very good).

Many weeks it is running over 40hrs a week. Like, honestly RUNNING the entire time. Forward trolling, hook Tarpon, shift into neutral, fight Tarpon for 45min, then shift back into forward and continue. Then repeat, haha.

Pretty incredible rock solid reliability for a 47 year old kicker motor.

The 30hp Yamaha mounted next to it causes a lot more grief than the 1970 OMC and that Yammy only runs about three or four hours a week. (The Yammy is a great motor, but not near as well designed as the 1970 Johnson 6hp. Vietnam-Era technology is still impressive and runs smooth and quiet when set up properly).
 
Joined
May 15, 2017
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Note----Careful / think about which way you turn it to wind up the spring.----They are very proud of those springs.

That's the other fear.

Replacing that spring (if I were to break it) isn't a cheap endeavor. Heck, it took me YEARS to find a new cowling seal.

There was a guy in Canada who had it in bulk... But he was hilariously rude to deal with, so I decided he wasn't worth the hassle.

But I finally found a guy online last week with "new old stock" in England. Perfect fit, and a complete seal (all one piece, not cut 'by the foot').

$25 and I was good to go.

Thanks again for the help everyone! I will tackle the pinion on Friday morning (then go fishing) and then report back. Many, many thanks for your expertise!
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 28, 2013
Messages
36,268
It is difficult to convince some folks that these are just excellent motors.----" new does not always mean better "---
 
Joined
May 15, 2017
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It is difficult to convince some folks that these are just excellent motors.----" new does not always mean better "---


No doubt! Last year I actually ran the 1970 Johnson 6hp 2-stroke side by side with a 2014 Yamaha 5hp four-stroke.

It was shocking to me (and to the seller of the Yamaha) that the 47 year old Johnson ran quieter than the Yammy at trolling speed (2.5-3.5mph).

Blew my mind, really....

But I can also say that it's not uncommon at all for guys to check out the little kicker motor on the boat when I am at a gas station or trailering the skiff somewhere to say "You know.... Those old 6hp OMC motors are some of the best motors ever built." And I believe it. I've owned a LOT of outboards over the years, but this little kicker is hands-down the most reliable and rock solid workhorse I have ever seen.
 
Joined
May 15, 2017
Messages
11
Thanks for all the advice and expertise, Guys!

I installed the new starter pinion last week and it went smooth and easy. I released all the tension off the spool as suggested, and then drove out the roll pin.

I didn't need to remove the entire recoil spool, I simply removed the two upper mounting bolts and gently tiled the spool to the side to remove the old pinion and slide a new one on. That way I didn't have to worry about the spring attachment coming loose during the process. I re-alligned the spindle and spool holes and drove in the old roll pin. Then tensioned the spring to an appropriate strength, attached the rope handle, and the spool sucked in the remaining rope like a charm.

The whole process took about ten minutes, haha... I really should have tackled that project a long time ago.

The motor is SUPER quiet now with it's new cowling seal. And now I don't have to remove the cowl to start the motor anymore. What a luxury!!!

Thanks again, Fellas!!!! Your insight is GREATLY appreciated!!!
 
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