Evinrude 9.9 not charging.

driver0606

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Sep 9, 2015
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Hello,
I have a 1989 Evinrude 9.9 with electric start, but this may have been retrofitted. It does not charge the battery. This may be connected with the yellow, white and blue cut wires shown in the photo. Any ideas where I should start looking for the problem, please?
If working, what sort of charging rate would I be looking at?
Many thanks for any comments.
 

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gm280

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driver0606, the model of your engine would help a lot. But after searching, seems all the models for that year had the same stator assembly part number 0583650. Now the problem, that stator is no long available. However the rectifier assembly IS still available. That part number is 0581778.

Do you see that rectifier any where on the engine? If no, then you will have to remove the flywheel and see if the previous owner has removed the stator assembly and cut the wires. If you still have the stator assembly, but the wires are cut, you can add on to them with a quality splice connection and install a rectifier (available here from iboat parts) and wire it to charge your battery.

Let us know what you have on the engine and we can offer the proper suggestions and wiring setup. Model number would be helpful as well. JMHO
 

flyingscott

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Take a pic of the sides of the powerhead. Those wires do not look like charging wires. There should only be yellow and red from the rectifier for charging and only yellow from the charging coils. An aftermarket set-up may be different. Is this motor a tiller or remote model.
 

driver0606

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Hello,
Thanks for your replies, I will have a look around and take some photos the next time I am on board. It is used for very short runs, so I am wondering, what sort of charging rate I might get, to see if its worth changing from my present solar panel system.
 

driver0606

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No Title

Here are some photos. Is the black box with all the numbers, bottom left in the centre photo the rectifier? If so, are there electrical readings I can take to test it please? I could not find a model number and the remote control as fitted is homemadel, so it may have started life as a tiller model. There is a bracket a tiller could bolt to.
 

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gm280

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Yes that looks like the rectifier. But it usually has wires coming out of it unless this is the back side visible and the wires are on the other side. And if you own a multi-meter you can check the diodes internally to verify they are good.
Untitled.png
And the wire block to the left of this looks like the stator and rectifier connections. So you can also test the stator for shorts to ground and continuity also. I don't know what it should read in resistance with the wires disconnected from the rectifier, but if it reads to ground, it is gone. JMHO
 

Vic.S

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Yes that looks like the rectifier circled in GM280's post

It should have three yellow wires ( one may have a grey tracer and one a blue tracer but we can ignore that) and a red wire.

They should go to the terminal strip where the yellows should link with 3 similar yellows coming from the stator. These are the AC output from the stator coils to the rectifier.

The red is the DC positive output from the rectifier.

The rectifier case is the DC negative if its the original part but if it is an aftermarket replacement it may have a black wire which is DC negative, If there is a black wire it should be grounded to one of the mounting screws,

Remove it or at least completely disconnect it to test it.

Use the diode test range of a multimeter to test it. You will find the testing procedure in the CDI electronics troubleshooting guide at http://www.cdielectronics.com/support/

Like GM820 I don't remember the resistance of the stator coils off hand but they are quite low and you should find that the resistance between the yellow and the yellow/blue is twice the resistance between the yellow and the yellow/grey or between yellow/grey and yellow/blue
 

driver0606

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Yes, that is the rectifier, the wires are at the back. I disconnected the yellow wires from the stator and none are shorted to earth. There are two all yellow wires and one yellow with a blue line. There are the same colours on the rectiifier plus a red wire from the rectifier that connects to both the solenoid and a thin red wire that runs under the carburetter, but I cannot see you where he goes after that.
I read the description of how to test the rectifier (thanks for the link), but it mentions using the diode testing scale on the multimeter. Mine has only volts, amps and ohms. Can I use one of these? What charging output can I expect if it all works, please?
 

Vic.S

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Some digital meters will test diodes on one or more of the ohms ranges some won't. All you can do is try it using a known good diode. You wont get the same readings as you do on a diode test range. Either zero or infinity.
Analog meters will generally work on the ohms ranges
 

flyingscott

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That is the do it yourself version. The solenoid is usually not mounted on the motor for remote models, they are in a separate box that mounts in the boat. Are you keeping it a remote model or putting a tiller on it.
 

driver0606

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I will be keeping the remote system. I disconnected all the wires from the rectifier and checked the yellow ones against the red one. I got a reading one way and not the other. So far so good, but when I checked the yellow wires to ground they were reading around 100,000 ohms instead of in the millions.The red wire to ground showed maybe 1 or 2 million ohms instead of 25 million ohms or more. Any clues there? Is it often the rectifier that goes? I may be able to borrow the rectifier of a similar engine belonging to a friend for a test.
 

oldboat1

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For testing, you are probably better off switching out the rectifier with a known good one.

It's almost always a rectifier issue, but are you sure it's not charging? You need a good fully charged battery to begin with, then need to operate the motor at something above idle for a bit -- maybe 1000 rpms. If voltage goes above 13v or so, it's charging.

This assumes the electricals are hooked up properly, good ground, fused connections OK (if any). You don't have a standard hook up, but doesn't look slipshod either. Curious -- is/was that used as a sailboat auxiliary? Maybe a small boat rig, or a trolling set up?
 

driver0606

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Its definately not charging. I will try to borrow my friend's known good rectifier and report back. This will probably be in about 3 to 5 weeks. You may well be right about the sailboat auxilary or trolling because although it had recently been fitted to a little speedboat when I bought it, the prop pitch was way too fine. Many thanks for all the assistance.
 

driver0606

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Sep 9, 2015
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Hello again. I will have a rectifier to test next and measure the rate of charging with an ammeter. Presumably I should measure this by connecting into the red wire, is that correct, please?
 

gm280

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Hello again. I will have a rectifier to test next and measure the rate of charging with an ammeter. Presumably I should measure this by connecting into the red wire, is that correct, please?

Any time you want to read voltage, you measure from the red wire to the black wire. That is called a parallel connection for voltage. And time you want to read current, you have to insert the amp meter inline of the wire. That could be the wire at the battery or any other place you are wanting to read current. That is called a series circuit for current. Here is a little pictorial to help show how there are connected. Hope this helps explain it better.

Drawing1Volt Current Meter Setup.jpg

Keep in mind that your Amp meter needs to be capable of the amount of current it is inline to read. And that is because the total current goes through the amp meter setup. Usually there are shunts in that setup but it has to be able to carry the total current. otherwise, you will burn up the meter without fail. JMHO
 
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