1962 75hp Starflite Selectric Shift Evinrude Outboard Not Starting

Joined
Apr 27, 2017
Messages
10
Ok, ok, I need help. This is my first time working on an outboard and I am out of ideas and experience. My 1962 75hp Starflite Evinrude (Model 50930) is turning over but not starting.

So far I have replaced the coil, lower unit oil, and spark plugs. I also cleaned most of the electrical connections. The compression is 75 in all 4 cylinders. I opened up the double carburetor and fuel pump and they seem like they are in great shape.

The left two spark plugs are sparking but the right are not. How can this happen? Better question: How do I fix it :)

Thank you,

Clint
 

jimmbo

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 24, 2004
Messages
12,944
Just for your info, the 75 with the electric shift has the Battery Ignition. Check inside of Cap for carbon tracks and corrosion. I suspect one set of points/primary wire has an continuity issue. Might be dirt, broken wire, or poor ground, or so far out of adjustment, they never close. There is a slight chance that two of the plug wires are bad.
The lower unit oil is very critical, 'Type C' was the spec and is now marketed by BRP as 'Premium Blend'. Other brands that are labeled Type C may not be compatible with Electric shift, so if choosing an after market 'Type C' oil, make sure it says 'for electric shift'.
 

Chris1956

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 25, 2004
Messages
27,030
Check the wire connecting the points together. Look for the second timing mark on the distributor pulley base to make sure both sets of points open at the right time..
 

F_R

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jul 7, 2006
Messages
28,195
As mentioned, each set of points fires one bank. It's a pretty safe bet one set is not doing what it is supposed to do.
 
Joined
Apr 27, 2017
Messages
10
Thanks guys! I will try cleaning the points more. Our should I just replace them? Is the condenser a concern? From what I have read it prevents damage to the points but it doesn't prevent firing?

Also I just checked and I did get the Electric Shift compatible Type C Blend Sierra Oil for the lower unit.
 

Chris1956

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 25, 2004
Messages
27,030
The condenser absorbs a pulse of electricity when the points open and immediately feeds it back to the coil. If it is bad, you will not have spark. if you have spark on 2 cylinders, the condenser is good.
 

F_R

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jul 7, 2006
Messages
28,195
Nothing to do with spark on two cylinders but if the timing belt is not timed correctly, it won't run.
 

jimmbo

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 24, 2004
Messages
12,944
There is only one condenser, and two cylinders are currently firing. The points are wired in parallel, one is obviously functioning, the other set is has an open in the circuit, Check the wire between the points for continuity, Also check for continuity of the points themselves, you will have to isolate each. Replacing the points will ensure clean contacts. If either of the paths were permanently shorted or grounded, no plugs would fire.
 
Joined
Apr 27, 2017
Messages
10
Good news and bad news. I took off both points and cleaned them. Now all 4 cylinders have sparks! I tried starting the engine and I finally got it to start for a half second before dying. It did that 3 times and but now it wont do it again. I checked all of the spark plugs again and all 4 are still getting a spark.

I also played with the choke and still nothing.

Any ideas?
 

boobie

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 5, 2009
Messages
20,826
Squirt some fuel in the carb throats once and see what happens.
 

oldboat1

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Apr 3, 2002
Messages
9,598
^^agree. While trying to initially get the motor up and running, look for a manual choke override lever to make sure it's closing for starting. (Believe you have a hot water choke -- same as the 40 Lark. Will need a working thermostat for automatic operation -- opening when the engine warms to temp.)
 
Joined
Apr 27, 2017
Messages
10
I think I am close. I sprayed one blast of starter sprayed in both cards and I pumped the gas bulb a few times until I saw gas going through the filter. I turned the key and it started right up. It sayed on a little longer this time (5-10) but then immediately died again. I tried the choke, nothing. I tried pumping more gas, nothing, I tried starter spray, nothing.

I looked into the carb throats and saw that there was gas sitting on top of the butterflies. Could the engine be flooding itself or could I be flooding the engine? When I pump too much, gas comes out of two holes in the top of the carburetor. Is that supposed to happen?

The painted float seemed to be crinkled and some of the paint was coming off when I previously cleaned the carburetor. Would that have a significant effect on it starting?

What about the rich needle valve? how should I have it set when starting.

​Thank you,

Clint
 

jimmbo

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 24, 2004
Messages
12,944
I hope you are not using Starting Fluid to attempt starting the engine. That stuff is Death to a 2 stroke. It not only is a very good lubricant remover, it also can ignite in the crankcase during the crankcase compression.
You are supposed to squeeze the primer bulb until the fuel bowl is filled, when that happens the float should hold the inlet needle against its seat shutting off the fuel and the bulb gets firm. You say fuel is coming out of two holes on the carb. That is not supposed to happen. Float is either set too high, has absorbed fuel and is too heavy. You mention that the float is flaking paint off. That too is not good, as the pieces flaking off can plug orifices or cause inlet needles/seat to remain open. It also allows fuel to be absorbed by the float.
Idle mixture screws have an initial setting of 1 1/2 turns out. A 1962 is supposed to have fixed high speed jets and no adjustment is needed or possible
 

Chris1956

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 25, 2004
Messages
27,030
If you do still have spark, and she won't run, I would suspect a dirty idle circuit. You also seem to have carb float or inlet needle problems. The original floats were coated with shellac, which may be affected by the alcohol in today's fuels. Not sure if there is a fix. Maybe polyurethane or epoxy coating on the float?
 

F_R

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jul 7, 2006
Messages
28,195
And those fixed jets are down in the lowest part of the carburetor where all the old gummy fuel and dirt collects. In other words make sure they are absolutely clean. But don't be jamming wires or drill through them. Those are precision orifices.
 

F_R

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jul 7, 2006
Messages
28,195
A new float should have alcohol-proof coating, unlike the old ones that were coated with shellac.
 
Joined
Apr 27, 2017
Messages
10
By replacing the float I discovered that the needle seat for the valve was missing. I replaced that and the the engine puttered. I saw that one of the gas lines was cracked and dripping so I fixed that too. The engine started right up and ran for a good 10 minutes before I shut it off. I started it again and it was fine for another 10.

My wife came home and I was excited to show her. The engine puttered a few time and then nothing! Gas still seems to be streaming out with the water but I cant see where it is coming from. What are the common spots for gas leaks? Is there anything in the lower half or could it just be draining out that way?
 
Top