'89 J60TLCEA Is OMC locquic primer really necessary?

[rebuilt]

Getting ready to re-assemble. Checking details. So I'm using loctite 518 to assemble the crankcase. It's supposed to be the modern equivalent of OMC gel-seal II. The J/E manual states to prep the mating flange side with this primer. After some online reading, I learn that the primary use for loctite primers when using their anaerobic sealant is to speed up cure times. This engine will sit for at least a week before I attempt to fire it. What say the more experienced J/E engine builders here? Is this stuff really necessary? Thanks in advance. Been a member of this forum for years and have always found reliable trustworthy help here. Kevin

 

[boobie]

Out of habit I've always used it but you can get away with out it if you have plenty of time.

 

[daselbee]

Nope. Wipe with acetone.

 

[interalian]

Can't hurt and isn't expensive. I used it after playing with some 518 holding a couple of parts close together and it was still liquid after over a week...

 

[F_R]

The primer acts as a catalyst to help cure locktite products. Some metals also do the same, especially copper. Aluminum yes, but not so well. If the instructions call for it, you really ought to do so. I don't think you want to tear it back down because it leaks.

 

[racerone]

After meticulous inspection / preparation of the mating faces I use laquer thinner to clean before a thin bead of 518 or gel seal.----Have used those primers but never on an outboard.----NO problems with the results !

 

[WernerF]

If you have 1 week curing time, it is better not to use a primer/activator. So says the Loctite datasheet.

http://tds.henkel.com/tds5/Studio/S...at=MTR&subformat=REAC&language=EN&plant=WERCS

 

[Faztbullet]

I use it always.......

 

[rebuilt]

Okay......after reading all of the input I'm glad I asked. I usually ere on the side of caution, that's why I asked. Like anyone else at this stage of this job, I've got a pile of $ into this. What's another $20, right? I just ordered up some, can't get it locally. Thanks guys. Kevin

 

[interalian]

^that's the spirit. I had the same WTF moment when I did mine last year.

 

[Faztbullet]

Does your block have the oval port exhaust or bridged port? If bridged it needs modified...

 

[rebuilt]

I'm not at all sure what the oval or bridged port exhaust is refering to. This would be the bottom of the block where the exhaust flange bolts up? see pic. I have no idea why the pic is upside down. i went into editor and turned it upside down when i saw this and reuploaded it. it still came out upside down

 

[racerone]

Has to do with exhaust ports in the cylinder.

 

[rebuilt]

OK.... why would I modify them? J/E built a pretty succesful engine here. I'm only rebuilding it cuz it sank in sea water and stayed there overnight. I'm not real keen on porting mods with a stock non race engine.

 

[Faztbullet]

The bridged port models scuff pistons.......

 

[rebuilt]

Ok.... I'll bite..... makes sense. This engine had quite a few hours on it. No real way to tell, bought it used of course and have used it for 7 seasons now, exclusively salt water. The skirts look to be in excellent condition.The pic is #2 piston. I had the block miked and honed not to exceed specs to accept stock J/E rings. by a local machine shop. So.. which do I have, oval or bridged?

 

[rebuilt]

No Title

Ok... I'll bite.....I've used this engine exclusively in salt water, as did the p.o. No way to tell how many hours are on it, I've used it for seven seasons now. I'm glad I broke it down to service it, internal corrosion was doing a number between gasket surfaces. But I was absolutely sick to look at her covered in sea water, straining at the mooring lines, sitting in the mud, at the dock. The skirts look to be in excellent shape, the pic is #2. So... which do I have, oval or bridged port? Thanks for your input on my other thread. This old motor will sing again.