1990 tracker evinrude 40 no spark

[jakedaawg]

If the blk/yel coming from the power pack is going to ground then of course you will not have spark!!! If, on the other hand, you do not have spark with the bulk/yel not grounded then that points to power pack or key switch. However, you state that the red plug is disconnected. Has it always been disconnected, yes or no?

 

[jakedaawg]

I think maybe we need to get the major components straight here. The stator and timer base/trigger coils are under the flywheel. The rectifier and power pack are on the right side of the motor towards the back. The rectifier being above the power pack. The power pack has a set of five wires coming out that lead to a rubber plug. One of these, usually the center one in the row of three pins is the blk/yel.

 

[patrickj]

No I disconnected it for testing purposes, to eliminate the harness to the console

 

[patrickj]

Ok wait a minute, I'm getting it from 10 sides here... under the flywheel I have the stator, which has a black box with with wires coming out of it, that black box has the black with yellow stripe wire, I cut that wire 1 inch from the black box under the flywheel, it is grounded no matter what

 

[jakedaawg]

post model # please. Should be something the E40tle...

 

[patrickj]

Te40elesr

 

[jakedaawg]

My bad, I missed the under flywheel ignition on that one. Not too many of those in my neck of the woods...

So, with that said not much changes.

If you cut the blk/yel it is not grounded. if you do not have spark then you need to preform an stator voltage test to rule that out. cdielectronics.com has the troubleshooting guide that is easier than me typing it out, find your motor, follow guide, post back here with procedural questions. Verify good stator, most likely replace powerr pack, hook both ends of blk/yel up and go boating. Oh, plug red connector back together.

 

[patrickj]

I cut the black yellow and it is grounded, that's my question shouldn't it be open

 

[jakedaawg]

yes, for spark it needs to be open.

 

[patrickj]

Ok then that is my problem, I'll order one tomorrow and report back when I put it on, also going to go ahead and add a kill switch since I've been warned a few times about not having one

 

[jakedaawg]

I give up

 

[patrickj]

Why? If that black and yellow wire has to be open for the motor to spark and it's still grounded when it's cut as far back as it can be... where is the disconnect here?

 

[jakedaawg]

If you datemined that the wire was grounded by using your ohmmeter then go ahead and buy a new one??? No one asked you to place an ohmmeter on that wire or would they. That lead can not handle any amperage. An ohmmeter induces amperage to take the reading. What we, or in this case I, suggested was to use the free troubleshooting guide at the above mentioned site. That way you would not spend money on parts you do not need, its late, I am done for this evening.

With no offense intended I sincerely wish you good luck.

 

[maybeso1]

If nothing else has been different for so long until now I would say either its your dual coil or the powerpack under the flywheel. Rectifier & stator has nothing to do with it. They are for battery charging.

 

[racerone]

I refrain from assisting with electical trouble shooting now since so many folks have issues with wires / volts / amperes / ohms how this all works.

 

[jakedaawg]

It certainly can get tiresome...

 

[patrickj]

Ok the power pack deal under the flywheel solved the no spark, then my coil only the top had good spark, picked up one locally, I have beautiful spark on both cylinders, put a barrel under it full of water, it will fire up for a split second and die, if I throttle it up to about 2500 rpm it runs perfectly, but anything lower than that it just stalls out, I set to factory the idle screws... any ideas?

 

[oldboat1]

The jet at the bottom of the bowl has to be clear (behind the screw plug), also the jet in the top front of the carb. Soaking is the best approach (I leave jets in place, and soak the disassembled carb tops and bottoms.) Blow everything out with carb spray after soaking. The idle passages are at the top, and should be opened up (r and r of the domed covers). First try adjusting the needle a little richer, a little at a time.

 

[patrickj]

The jet at the bottom of the bowl has to be clear (behind the screw plug), also the jet in the top front of the carb. Soaking is the best approach (I leave jets in place, and soak the disassembled carb tops and bottoms.) Blow everything out with carb spray after soaking. The idle passages are at the top, and should be opened up (r and r of the domed covers). First try adjusting the needle a little richer, a little at a time.

I set it to factory on the idle and tried adjusting out and in an 1/8th at a time ever got any better, I need to check the timing but unsure how, carbs were just professionally rebuilt in February, but I will double check the jets and passages

 

[oldboat1]

possible some contaminated fuel (debris/old fuel in your tank), messing up the clean carb.