1982 Evinrude XP 150 Missing and running bad

Bosunsmate

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Ok so just pulled and inspected all plugs. Port side those 3 looked wet and kind of a yellowish tint but not to bad looking. Starboard side all 3 are black and dry as a bone. All 3 look fouled to me. Kinda odd. They weren't like this a few weeks ago.


This port bank wetness is the first thing i would sort out. What you should do is run the outboard for a couple of minutes and then cut the engine and pull out a port bank spark plug. Light that wetness it should burnt instantly, if not it would indicate that you a getting water vapour/ water ingress into that port bank, it might be a gasket thats leaking somewhere.
Id also pull your lanyard safety switch so there is no spark and then turn the engine over a few times with the starter then remove those starboard plugs, they should be wet with fuel, if they a not then that indicates you arent getting fuel to them due to a starvation issue.
If this fuel check seems ok then i would be confident to say its something to do with your powerpacks and you will need to check timing with a timing light, which is actually quite easy, you just need a second hand at least timing light for twenty or so dollars (much cheaper than having a shop do it)
 

Bosunsmate

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Oh and clean your plugs first, those yellow deposits can cause conductance and thus misses.
 

Jackfrost913

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Thank you guys so much. Awesome information. Going to get a timing light tomorrow. Might not get to it tomorrow. Have to pull a 12 at work. But soon as I do I'll post my findings.
 

Jackfrost913

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Ok so a very interesting find today. Borrowed a timing light for a local mechanic and started the process of checking the timing. I read a way to time an engine that a Joe Reeves posted and tried it this way. Warmed the engine up on muffs. Removed all s/plugs and junpered #1 wire with a spark tester. Disconnected throttle and set smart advance to full at the stop and tried it. Engine calls for 28 degrees but Mr Reeves said if you check it this way subtract 4 degrees. It read 28 degrees when tested so I set it to 24. Upon checking my number 2 cylinder I had no light. Checked the spark tester and nothing. Proceeded to then check the rest of the cylinders and all work great except number 2. Swapped wires and still number 2 no spark. Wonderful. So I'm thinking I have a bad coil on the number 2 cylinder.
 

Bosunsmate

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You can swap those coils around and see if the problem follows it. If it doesnt then it will be the powerpack or timing base but if its the coils then thats a good cheap fix in comparison to what it could be.
One bank running dry and one running wet when you pulled those sparks might be due to the kill circuit only shutting the ignition off on the powerpack side with the wet plugs. Thats not a problem so long as the engine cuts out. It might mean the kill circuit is only hooked up to one of your two powerpacks.
Try and test the rest of the cylinders timing by marking the flywheel with each cylinder at tdc if you have the time too
 

Bosunsmate

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Ok i get what you mean by swapping wires, those orange ones that feed it im picking. What you should also do is clean the ground on the coil as if that is corroded it wont work and also visually inspect for cracks
 

Jackfrost913

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One of the things I didn't think was important to mention was while testing all this I took and undid all the grounds on the motor and sanded/cleaned them and then tightened them back down. Just figured I'd take care of that due to it being an old motor. I did notice that the starboard power pack looks to be a newer one then the other one which happens to be the same side as the #2 cylinder. Might be just a coincidence. I saw on Youtube a way to test a evinrude coil with an ohm meter. I'm gonna prolly go ahead and test all 6 coils before ordering. Hate to order and find another one bad. OH and to clarify one thing, When I got this boat the kill switch cable has been removed and I'd say wired to run with out it. Yes I know, I need that and should have it on there. Just haven't looked into that just yet. Could that be an issue if its not wired correctly?
 

Bosunsmate

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Nope as that would affect more than one coil. It would be odd if just one coil down caused all of the symptoms but its possible, so keep an eye out as i suspect its something more as well
 

Jackfrost913

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Did some driveway testing with her today. Ohm tested all the coils and they all came back good. Hmmm. Weird. Warmed the motor up and spark tested all cylinders again. Starboard side had a very weak and kind of yellowish spark where as port side had a bright blue spark. Also noticed all 3 on the starboard side would cut out (no spark) at about 2000rpm. I guess the old saying is true. There's never just one thing wrong with a boat. Now I'm starting to think starboard side power pack. Is there a way to test those?
 

Bosunsmate

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Swap it with the other side and then see if the problem follows the suspected bad pack- if not then the problem is up stream of there. You a getting close to solving it
 

Jackfrost913

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Ok. Sounds like a plan. Did run into an issue. During my testing for some reason the engine rpm shot up to 3000 for no reason at all. Shut it down and restart jumps right back to 2500-3000. Throttle not up at all. Nothing is Making it go up like that. Read it could be carbon build up to take and use seafoam to clean that out. Makes sense if starboard side hasn't been firing right for awhile.
 

Jackfrost913

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Welp it's been a few days. Got a new power pack and replaced the starboard side. Also replaced all six plugs. Fired it up (on muffs) and wow. Runs like a charm. Smooth and sounds great. Just one thing. 3000rpms at idle is a bit much. For some reason it's idling very high. Haven't a clue what the heck this could be. I've tried everything to fix this and can't find anything. I know you guys like more information so here's what I've done and what it's doing.

Before replacing the power pack I was checking the timing and noticed that all my starboard plug stopped firing around 2500rpm. Right at the end of that test the rpm raced up for no reason. Well I got a new power pack and also a can of Seafoam. Read somewhere high idle could be carbon buildup if not firing right. So I put the now powerpack on it today and new plugs and ran it off satellite fuel tank with gas oil and seafoam mix. Smoke a bunch. Still 3000rpm. If I turn the manual primer lever just right I can get the rpms back down to normal idle. To much and it'll die. To little and still to high. I tested the low fuel high idle and pinched the fuel line off and the rpms started racing up. Also I tried to suffocate it and blocked off both side of the airintake and never missed a lick. Didn't even lower rpm at all. Didn't seem to suck the cardboard I had to it at all. I them removed all three carbs again and cleaned them again. They looked great. Oh and I tested the primer and unplugged one little line coming from primmer that was going to tip of carb to see it if was pumping fuel when it shouldn't. Nope. Only pumped when told to. But yes the primer will make the rpms drop if adjusted right. I'm at a loss.
 
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Jackfrost913

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Oh forgot to mention. After I removed carbs and cleaned them when I started motor it idled great for about 5 seconds then raced right up to 3000.
 

racerone

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By turning the primer lever you are adding fuel to the engine.----Flooding it and it will slow down.----That sure is not the fix.
 

Jackfrost913

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Correct. For some reason adding fuel to the engine with the primer is slowing it down. Adding to much will flood it out though. Weird I know.
 

Bosunsmate

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Is the timing base going back down?
Have you done a drop test on each cylinder?
Did you check timing was in time?
 

Jackfrost913

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Yes. Timing base is dropping ing back down correctly. Drop tested all 6 with no major deviation between drops. As for checking if in time. Hmmm. I did check the wot timing. I don't know how to check if it's in time or not. How would one go about doing that?
 
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