1982 Evinrude XP 150 Missing and running bad

[Jackfrost913]

First let me say this my first post and just joined today. I've read thousands of forums on here. Ok. I have a 1982 Evinrude Xp150 and its not running good. It misses at idle on muffs in the driveway as well as missing at the lake. I've rebuilt the carbs twice in the last 6 months (second rebuild was dipped for an hour each) as well as rebuilt both fuel pumps. I've also replaced all the fuel lines from tank to carbs and inspected line inside the tank with pickup screen. looks great. Now here's what its doing. At idle on muffs it misses and sound rough. if you push the key in (primmer) it dies. Duh. Now same thing but at higher RPM (around 3000 rpm) still on muffs it runs smooth with out missing. Sounds wonderful. Now on to the lake tests. Idles in gear fairly decent until I punch it to get on plane. Misses and pops until i get on plane then smooth. Smooth as in WOT but only going about 30mph and around 3000 rpms and missing from time to time. Now here's the funny part. If I push the key in (primmer) it comes alive. 5000 + Rpms, 45-50 mph and runs smooth. I don't know if the primmer solenoid is bad and leaking to mush fuel causing it to miss and be sluggish. Everyone keeps telling me it's a fuel problem but I'm starting to think it's not. Can someone please help me. I've spent 2 years fulling restoring this boat and would like to enjoy it. I don't know mush about power packs and the ignition system parts of it, but wondering if I need to be looking into that a little closer. Thanks and any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[ondarvr]

Did you check the compression?

 

[Jackfrost913]

Yes. Forgot to mention that. All six are within 100-110. Also I have done a spark test and all 6 are firing fine from what I've gathered.

 

[jakedaawg]

Sounds like you mis-installed, reversed, or failed to clean some of the jets in the carb bowls. Should be four orifices/ jets in each bowl. If I recall you could mix them up if not careful.

 

[Bosunsmate]

Have a look at your plugs? What colour a they? Are any different from the others by much?
Also have you checked timing on number one cylinder lines up the flywheel at 0 with the timing arrow on the engine when pistons at TDC?

 

[Jackfrost913]

Thanks for the input. Well I did a water test in a makeshift tank today. While running I noticed that the timer base arm on top of the throttle arm would only go so far and then stop. But after stopped I could move it by hand the rest of the way. I read some other posts about the grease drying out on the timer base and the throttle arms and what not. My question is, does the timer base arm at wot stop about an inch away from the stop or is it supposed to go to the stop. Thanks again.

 

[ondarvr]

It should go all the at to the stop where the adjustment screw is.

 

[Jackfrost913]

So today I removed the flywheel, stator and timer base. Cleaned all old dry grease from the retainer ring and around inside the timer base. Also cleaned and re-greased the throttle arm. Put at all back together and everything moves flawlessly. Took it to the lake and 3200rpm max and 30mph. Now I know it's got more then that. It was missing and popping a little from time to time. And I must say, pushing the key in for primmer doesn't do anything like it did before I greased what I did today.

 

[racerone]

Does spark jump a gap of 7/16" on all leads , yes or no.----Saying that spark is " good / firing fine " means nothing to us.---Have you run with the cowling /cover off ?

 

[Bosunsmate]

As above^ and do a drop test, you might find a cylinder or two is not pulling its weight

 

[crazy charlie]

did you replace or check vent line??

 

[Jackfrost913]

I have done a spark test and yes all 6 are sparking on 7/16 gap. Good clean spark. BUT when i did the spark test it was not under any load. Just on muffs. Don't know if that makes a difference. I keep reading stuff about stators and if they are bad or going bad you won't get much top end. Any thoughts on that? Also I have realized that in my cleaning of the carbs (with help from infamous wisdom friend yah right) he told me that it was pointless to remove and replace the core plugs (little silver disks). Well in watching videos and reading online about them it's said DO NOT skip this step. So I guess I'll remove the carbs again and replace those little buggers. Thanks for all the help. Oh I forgot to mention, just after starting the motor the volts gauge reads around 12.5 volts. After running for a little bit it reads 13.5-14.0 volts. So that tells me that its charging. Right? Once again, thanks for the input.

 

[Bosunsmate]

Thats not my finding with stators they will go wrong at any speed. You can test them with a basic digitimeter $10 but to test them thoroughly you need a DVA adaptor. Ive never removed those little plugs. What you can do is put a sheet of cardboard over half of each carbs throat, that acts like a choke. See if that smooths out your rough idle and that would then indicate what cylinders going wrong.
You really need to remove all the plugs and compare the colours Post #5 that can tell you a lot about whats going on in each cylinder, its one of the first things i do.
And yes thats charging fine

 

[Bosunsmate]

I also dont think its your stator as if its jumping 7/16 then it should be ok, being underload doesnt make any difference in my experience

 

[Jackfrost913]

Awesome. Thanks a ton for that info.

 

[Jackfrost913]

Ok so just pulled and inspected all plugs. Port side those 3 looked wet and kind of a yellowish tint but not to bad looking. Starboard side all 3 are black and dry as a bone. All 3 look fouled to me. Kinda odd. They weren't like this a few weeks ago.

 

[racerone]

Are the orange wires going to the correct coils , stripe colours are blue on top and green on the bottom ?--------Your compression numbers are not encouraging to me.----Some would argue about those values.-------I would remove bypass covers to look at pistons and rings.

 

[Jackfrost913]

I don't know about the orange wires if they are going to the correct coil or not. I just tried to test the power packs with a meter using those orange wire but apparently I wasn't doing it right. Couldn't get anything on any of the orange wires with a meter or a test light. Also I did notice that the power packs are different colors. Ones black and ones brown. Maybe someone replaced one at some point.

Just to clarify, before I cleaned and lubed the timer base ring, it ran rough but when I would push the key in it came alive. 5500rpm and around 50mph and very smooth. No huffing or missing while key was pushed in but the advanced spark arm was not going all the way due to old dry grease. Now that I've cleaned and greased that so it goes all the way to the stop, 3200rpm and 30mph still huffing and missing. But now nothing when I push the key in. So confusing. Anyways. Tha K's for the help and any other input on this mess will be greatly appreciated.

 

[ondarvr]

Did you check the timing after working on the timer base.

 

[Jackfrost913]

Nope. Was to sure if that was needed but come to think of it duh. Prolly wouldn't hurt just to check it due to having all that off and what not. I'll pick up a light tomorrow and check it. I'll post findings when done.